Complete Acne Handbook: How to Banish Blackheads & Inexplicable Breakouts

[skincare_expert]

Q: "Where to start?? My acne is on my face, which tends towards T-zone (although lately it can't make up it's mind). I pretty much ALWAYS have blackheads (mostly on my nose), and I tend to get big white-heads all around my chin and nose area, and I haven't really figured out what prompts a major breakout of these. I've tried the systems like ProActiv and Clinique, and used the prescribed treatments like antibiotics and Retin-A and Differin. Things work for a bit, then just quit working."

First of all, consistency is key. Make sure to use new products for at least two weeks before you decide that it isn't working. And secondly, try switching out just one product at a time--use that new product for two weeks, see if it's better or worse, then try another. Especially when you are jumping from one system to the next, it's hard to see what is working and what isn't.

Also, if the products suddenly stop working, maybe they're just too harsh (true for both Proactiv and Clinique). You could try a milder system for a while and see if it causes less irritation and therefore less acne.

As for blackheads...Your body produces the most sebum in the T-zone - the area across your forehead, down your nose and chin. This is where blackheads--clogged pores that look like a flat, dark spot or a speck of pepper--are typically found.


How blackheads form

• Sebum. Under normal conditions, the skin produces just enough sebum to stay protected and moist. However, with more oil production, there’s a greater chance that excess sebum will become trapped in the pore. This causes a blockage. Combined with dead skin cells and dirt, sebum in the pore oxidizes - or darkens - forming a blackhead at the pore opening. Oxidized oil - not dirt - is what makes a blackhead black.
• Other causes. Why this surge of excess oil? Blame it on a variety of possibilities:
  • Overabundance of androgens (male hormones)
  • Excessively hot, humid weather
  • Heavy emollient makeup, which can leave an oily film on the face.

Battling blackheads
Unfortunately, it’s impossible to permanently eliminate blackheads. Why? Oil production plays a large role in forming blackheads, and skin is constantly producing sebum. However, using specialized skincare products can help to banish blackheads.

• Start clean. Use a daily cleanser for oily skin. Enriched with beta hydroxy acid, these cleansers normalize oil production in the skin, keeping it smooth and blackhead-free.
• Exfoliate. For dry skin, use a scrub once a week; oily skin should exfoliate two to three times weekly. Exfoliating will encourage cell turnover and lift off dirt, grime and dead skin cells. This gives pores a fighting chance against excess oil.
• Banish bad habits. Don’t pick, squeeze or scratch at blackheads. This can cause irritation, infection and scarring.
• Try pore strips. Using pore strips on the skin can help lift off superficial blackheads. To start, apply a pore strip to wet skin, so it adheres to the skin’s surface. Then, once the strip has dried, pull it off. The strip should take a bounty of blackheads with it. The drawbacks? Though they’re an effective temporary solution, pore strips don’t prevent blackheads. Plus, pulling off the strip can cause pain and irritation.
• Apply retinoids. Prescription retinoids - like Retin-A - are effective in fighting bothersome blackheads. Topical retinoids speed up cell turnover to prevent clogged pores. But don’t expect a quick-fix. Like many acne treatments, retinoids can take weeks to months to work, and dry, flaky skin is a common side effect.
• Consider glycolic peels. Peels combat blackheads by quickly sloughing off dead skin, removing dirt and bacteria from the pores. How well the peel works varies by individual - some people see results after two peels; others need five to six treatments. You can try a professional or at-home treatment; just make sure you don't use peels too frequently, as overuse can weaken skin's protective barrier and lead to irritation. Also, people using retinoids shouldn't get glycolic peels, because retinoids can cause the skin to become sensitive and easily irritated.
• Use a BHA spot treatment. For very oily, acne-prone skin, consider applying the beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) salicylic acid.  Because salicylic acid is an exfoliating agent, over-use can cause dry, flaky skin. However, salicylic acid also works best when used regularly, so don’t give up! Instead, alternate how often you use different products with this ingredient. If you’re also washing your face with a BHA cleanser twice a day, reduce it to once daily.
  Don’t use salicylic acid products if you’re allergic to aspirin, pregnant or breast-feeding.
• See a professional for extractions. Normally performed during a facial, extractions remove a blackhead from the pore with an extractor - a small, pronged tool with loops on either end. Make sure to leave this up to a trained professional. Using the tool improperly can lead to skin damage and even scarring. Also, consult a dermatologist about prescription treatments.

Hope this helps! Stay tuned for more posts on specific acne issues, like forehead acne, backne and sensitive skin.