May 27, 2007 20:41
In 5 days I did:
Fushimi-Inari Taisha, Todaiji, Shiga Naoya's house, Kitano Tenmangu, Nijo-jo, Kinkakuji, Sanjusangendo, Kitano Tenmangu *again* for the flea market, Heian Shrine, Ginkakuji, Honnoji, the Genji costume museum, Kyoto National museum, Kurama, and Himeji.
As interesting as some of those sights were, the best part about being here is talking to random people. Case in point: sick with a cold and high fever, I go to mount Kurama at 3:00 in the afternoon, determined not to let the rainy day ruin my plans. At about 4:00 when I'm halfway up the mountain path, it *really* starts to pour. Shoes full of water, not a spot of dry clothing even with the umbrella...obviously the only person at that time bothering to hike this mountain and look for that ONE DAMN ELUSIVE AND NOT-WELL-LABELED well that Yoshitsune supposedly drank from one time in his legendary life.
I head back at about 5:00, stopping to see if any of the souvenir stores are still open. Only one was, and I ended up having a delightful conversation in Japanese with the clerk that went something like:
Me: "I love Yoshitsune sooo much."
Lady: "Me too!"
Me: "I wrote a final paper about the Gikeiki for Japanese literature class."
Lady: "Wow, you probably know more than I do!"
Me: "No, not at all. I know nothing. But I do love reading about Yoshitsune!"
Lady: "You know, I collect Yoshitsune pictures. Want to see my back room?"
Me: "OMG Totally! Wow, you have so many!"
Lady: "This is my favourite picture. NHK had a drama series a couple years back about Yoshitsune."
Me: "He's so good looking!"
Lady: "It's from a calendar and a bit old and beat up, but you can have it."
Me: "NO WAY! Really?! YAY!"
Lady: "Why don't you stay for tea while I close down?"
Our tea turned into three hours of talk. Actually, talking to people is very easy if you show you speak a little Japanese. Along with meeting very interesting folk, I've received lots of random gifts this way. I love gifts. :D
Anyway, back to the Kurama story. After tea I figure, 'it's pretty late at night, and I wouldn't want to miss the last train home'. So I head back to the train station, only to finally see the small sign that says the last train is at 4:30 in the afternoon.
What is this Tengu mischief?! 4:30?! Obviously I missed the last train by more than a few hours. But that's okay, a few minutes asking around and waving at random cars (not that there were many random cars since it was pretty deserted...) I found a really nice couple who took me back to Kyoto. The kind of old couple who you can tell are still sickeningly in love with each other even after a lifetime of marriage. Adorable. I felt like an adopted daughter, it was a great ride and more fun talk.
I've only been here a few weeks, but I think this is the way to enjoy Japan. Talk to everybody.