- Kodachadri; a trekking paradise -
2008 was about to end and I was sitting all alone at home on Christmas long weekend thinking of what to do for the next 4 days. I was very keen on making a very memorable end to the year that was full of ups and downs and surprises for me [ i had planned couple of trips for this 4 days long weekend with friends but had to cancel those due to some of the key elements that was missing for my birding trips :) ]. I got a call from Pradeep & he told about his plan for Kodachadri trek, I took some time but finally decided that i will go for this one as proper trekking is something which i hadnt done from quite some time. The initial plan was to drive down in either of our cars but later we decided to go in bus as the time was less and it required over night driving which both of us were not keen on. Couple of my friends were already there in Manipal ( close to Udupi ) as they opted to drive down on their Bullets. Myself, Pradeep and Madhu boarded the 10pm Aairavatha to Udupi and landed in Uduip @ around 730 in morning after a slippery and spine crushing journey. Within a matter of 10-15 mins we were in Manipal and Ajay was waiting for us. After a quick round of freshning up and a delicious breakfast at Vatsa's (Ajay's cousin) house, we started off towards Kollur in a local bus which took a whooping 3 hrs to reach the place. We had two trekking routes in mind
a. Karrakatte gate route
b. Marakutuka route
Realising that Karrakatte is the nearest one to Kollur we took a rickshaw and landed in Karrakatte gate and were shocked to see a group of about 50 youngsters from all across south being lead by a private mountaineering club from Mysore. Wasting no time we started our walk and at the begining after travelling for about 4+ kms along a jeep road i felt that this will be a very easy trek. Our hungry stomach was treated with a slightly expensive but fresh and hot idly and pottu at the Kaka shop which apparently is the only source of food in betweent the start and end point. Once done with the formality lunch and a big tumbler of refreshing lime juice we continued further. Ajay at this point showed his finger a distant hill and told thats the place we will be reaching in the next 2 hrs and i just sunk to my knees wondering if i will really be able to make it there. Every 15 - 20 mins we walked the gradient became more and more steep and each one of us were gasping for breath and it looked really impractical for us to finish the trek in the estimated 2.5hrs time ( we were suppose to be at Sunset point by 5pm ). Ajay kept on motivating all of us that we will hit a valley where we can take some photographs as well as trek will become easy ( all of us trusted him because he had already been here ) - but we later realised that it was way of keeping us charged through the uphill task. We eventually reached the summit by 5:30 which was about 3.5hs of uphill walk and all thanks to my beautiful planning i was trekking with a massive bag packed with couple of cameras and a set of lenses and to add to the woes a tripod bag as well. A quick sip of hot coffee at the Bhattara Mane and I had Ajay in front of me wearing my camera bag and waiting for me to continue for another 30mins walk to the Sunset point. Everyone of us were very keen on seeing the sunset but the batteries within us were more than dead to fulfil this. We eventually made it to the Sunset point and spent some time relaxing on top of rocks with a cold breeze watching the sun go down and bidding goodbye to hundreds of people who were there just for a glimpse of this moment.
We came back to Bhattara mane where our accomodation was booked and were waiting the 50 young over energetic NCC cadets from Mangalore to go out for their campfire so that we can have our dinner peacefully and sleep for the day. We did have a nice dinner but even before we could realise that we had slept the chaps got up at 330 in morning and playing songs in all languages and were singing along to wake up their friends. With no other option we got up from our beds and pickedup the camera and headed towards the Sunrise points but Madhavi stayed back for another couple of hours of good sleep. Initially we were misguided by the Auto driver that sunrise happens at 230am in morning - but it was 630 and we could sense not even a hint of light. But at last he didnt make us wait for long and just came peeping from behind the cloud cladded mountains and the sight was the moment to cherish for long. Within moments the entire regions was lit with golden light and the place looked like a golden carpet. A cold breeze which started made the best morning i had ever witnessed.
When we were waiting for our turns to head towards the dining hall for breakfast - the main caretaker of the Bhattara mane who happens to the sister of the main Bhattru in the place briefed us about the history of the place and how the name came for Kodachadri. The stories ran all the way from the point where research was made to determine the material in which the Trishul was made ( used by Mookambika to kill Mookasura ) till the modern day stories about Gaalipata movie which was shot in this very place ( Gaalipata was actually shot in an adjacent hill next to the main Kodachadri hill. This place can be seen from the resting place from Bhattara mane with the aid of a flag which is kept in this place ).
We started our downhill trek at 9am and were on target to reach the Kaka shop within 1hr. Though down hill the walk is not that easy and at time we got split up had tough time walking through dense forest all alone. The occasional calls of the langur and gaurs made the walk really scarry. We initially didnt knew the route to Arashinagundi falls but with help of a local person we found the route to the place ( rather halfway ). We were asked by everyone not to take the route without the help of a guide but we rejected the suggestion thinking that its a marketing gimmik to promote guides. But only after we got lost deep inside the jungle with a stream in front of us and not even a hit of trail in front us us made us realise our mistake. The walk to the stream was about 3 km and was a steep downhill and walking back was next to impossible with the state that we were in. From nowhere another team of techies from Bangalore came down with a guide and they took us along the stream to a narrow passage ( which only guide can see and no one who is new to the place can recognise ) which lead to a 1km uphill trek. This apparently started as one of toughest part of our trek. With absolutely no energy it was becoming difficult every step. Atlast we were there every drop of sweat that was shedded by us during the past 2 hrs paid of like anything. The place in which the falls is situated is a paradise in itself. Nested in between thick evergreen forest amidst tall hills the massive falls gives way to one of the best visual experience on can get. I decided not to take out my camera but to spend all my time sitting on a rock below the falls and enjoy the sheet beauty of the place ( this apparently is one of the best decisions i have ever made even when i had my camera with me ). If one just closes his/her eyes and listen to the numerous birds that were chirping with the roaring water sound as background, gives a very soothing touch to the mind.
Manju ( person who guided us to the falls ) told us that its about 8kms from falls to Kollur and there is no other option other than walking. He also told that its a down hill walk after a small 1km steep walk. What was waiting for us in this short 1km trek was the toughest experience for all 5 us. With no trace of water in our bottle, emptly stomachs, absolutely worn out body gasping for air every step we take - it was looking like never ending walk. People started getting breathing problems due to stress and standing still for about 5 secs also looked impossible. We kept on dragging until we finished at Kollur in one piece. Had a teaser in form of Tender coconut and then headed towards a hotel opp to the Kollur Mookambika temple for our lunch at 6pm :)
We had to rush to Udupi and had no option to waste our time as we had a prebooked bus at 930pm back to bangalore and most of this time in bus was spent sleeping away to glory in terrible pain. We got a buffer of 30mins ( thanks to the fast bus from Kollur to Udupi ) we got some to have dinner at the famous Hotel Diana. Sharp 930pm the aairawata was waiting for us to take 3 of us back to Bangalore. And all that i remember after boarding the bus was me wearing my iPod and next time i opened my eyes i was just couple of mins away from Bangalore bus stand :) It took a bit of effort for me to get up from the seat to get down as my legs were swollen beyond recognition :)
Some Hillights & Key Points :
- Difficulty level of the Treak > HIGH ! ( for a person of my physique and stamina )
- Terk to Arashinagundi falls is more tough than trek to Kodachadri
- Know the place well before doing some experiments on unknown routes
- Water is a key thing - carry as much as possible
- If you cant carry heavy weight - dont carry big camera bags ( a note for myself for my future trips )
- Either go in as a Trekking person or as a Photographer, dont try to do both ( personal experience it wont work out )
- Food is good both in Kaka shop and in Bhattara mane ( a bit expensive at Kaka shop )
- As always shoes are a key thing any trek - dont compromise on good shoes
- Anxitely and Stress levels are too high - so try to remain cool and calm through out
- Though winter it was not as cold/freezy as i expected ( way too better than last months Bharatpur trip wrt climate )
- Place looks like a perfect leech paradise in monsoon - CAREFULL !
- There is no power supply on top - keep camera and phone battery always charged
- Phone signals were available at only few points
PHOTOS FROM TRIP
Finally a few points for people heading towards Kodachadri next or for all those who care.
Earlier college guys and techie guys and people who were serioulsy interested in trekking used to visit this place but now due to motarable roads and the publicity this place has got after Galipata movie - this place is infested by all sort of people. The place has started seeing the effects of large scale tourist influx. The trek paths have noticable trails of plastic covers, biscuit and chocolate papers thrown everywhere and also plastic bottles. The summit has more number of liquor bottles disposed than any Bar/Pub in city. People are spoiling the place in the name of trekking and campfire. This place hosts a temple and people are seen disposing veg/non-veg food leftovers and beer cans in front of the temple. Even in the toughest route to Arashinagundi falls i could see chips packets and choco papers thrown here and there which was terribly disturbing. If one is going to this place to enjoy the beauty of this place - come back as you saw it and dont leave any bad impressions or trails from your end. Please keep the place clean for future.