May 27, 2010 09:26
The beach to the unswimable ocean is a gorgeous wide length of soft white sand, framed with palm trees, heavy with coconuts, and lush tropical plants with wide waxy green leaves. Behind that line is a mangrove forest and then the mountains of the Daintree rainforest, the oldest in the world. Mangrove forests are something out of a dream or a nightmare. The stench of sulfur and decay weighs heavy in the air. Cage like roots start at shoulder height with spear like points diving for the muddy mush of the ground, then forming ripples in the muck. The tide goes in an out, but the level of muck never seems to change. Snakes, salt water crocodiles and other wee beasties love the area. Imagine what motivated the first explorers to press through the tangled knot of roots, decay and beasts with no hope that anything better would be on the other side?
The ancient rainforest starts on the other side of the mangrove forest as soon as the land becomes solid. Strangler figs climb trees, hugging them to their doom. Butterflies bounce in the dappled sunlight, birds scratch at the ground, and crocodiles relax on the beach oblivious to the picture taking tourists. There are few flowers but the air is strongly aromatic, perhaps from the fruits dropped by the trees and vines to be eaten and spread by the birds. Fog rests in the crevices, creating an almost unbearable damp stillness that betrays the amount of life and movement amongst the leaves. Giant beetles, lizards and dragonflies wander by. Only the plentiful midgies stop to say hi and share a meal.