Starting Calum's 1400-1410 Garb
For those of you who aren’t local SCA folks, Calum and I put our names in the hat to become the next Baron and Baroness of Cleftlands. We won’t actually know who’s selected until April, and the investiture will be April 14, so it behooves me to start on possible “stepping up” garb just in case. It feels incredibly presumptuous of me to do this, but
( Read more... )
Sleeve is sorta rectangular but tapers slighty from elbow to wrist Does not need much in the way of shaping for sleeve cap. Almost just a cylander. Start with normal sleeve length and to the top, add the difference in length to reach to the bigger armhole. The two gores which are pretty much wedges out of circles. Look at the Charles de Blois diagram and decide approximate proportion of the two gores.... IIRC one is twice as big as the other, but maybe it was 2/3. Length of the leg of the pie wedge needs to be at least as long as what you added to the sleeve length. Look at Charles de Blois for guidance. Now here comes the cool part.... Draw the sleeve pattern on paper, full scale. Cut out quarter circle wedges with the appropriate leg length, using that length as the radius to make the curved part an arc of a circle. Then lay these wedges on to each side of the top of the sleeve pattern. Get your tape measure and adjust the angle at which the wedges attach until the total measure of top of sleeve and two wedges matches the circumference of the armhole. Then you just have to mark or fold the wedge so you can cut away the overlap and that will give you the exact size of gore needed. Then add seam allowance to all pieces, remebering to add seam allowance for the slash for the gore(s) if they are not set into the seam. I have found that just using two approx. quarter circle gores works well and I don't bother with the tiny sliver of a gore. And I have combined the two larger gores into one for purposes of calculations, but you can cut it appart and add seam allowance if you want.
Reply
Reply
Leave a comment