Supermacro using a custom lens
Combining two lenses into one optical system is the best method for btaining supermacro images. The physics will be discussed further, now let's talk about how to shot microobjects at home.
Equipment
I took an old Soviet «Yupiter-21» lens (200 mm, f/4) and even older «Helios-44» (58 mm, f/2). The first one was represented quite common tele-lens whereas the latter was the most abundant exchangeable lens in USSR (Helios-44 was a kit lens for ZENIT SLR-cameras).
Also I needed two color filters; the cheaper - the better. I bought a 52 mm filter for Helios-44 and a 58 mm one for Yupiter-21.
The last but not the least: an adapter ring. As far as use a Pentax DSLR camera, I have a quite cheap M42-A adapter. If you prefer other camera brands you have to look for a different ring. Certainly, if you use «native» lens, you do not need any adapters.
Making the thing
Let's start. First, we have to take the glass off the light filters. Yes, completely. Now you understand why I recommended to use as cheap filters as possible.
Next we combine residuary rings into one construction so that threads appear on the outside. I cannot advise you how to do it. In my case, I just inserted one ring into another and pressed strongly with hand.
After that we should twist the resulting construction between two lenses. Personally I got such a thing:
Shooting
I would recommend that you mount «longer» lens to the camera and set up the highest aperture possible (in my case - f/4). As for the «front» lens, it has to be closed up (up to f/8−f/11 or even f/16). Otherwise you will suffer from extra-high vignetting.
For making photos you should switch you camera into manual focus mode and set both focus rings to «infinity». Note: trying to focus using these rings will fail. You should adjust the position of your camera so that desired object appears in focus. The only working distance will be a flange focal distance of the front lens. The depth of field (DOF) will be extremely shallow, usually less that 1 mm. So be careful (smile). I would recommend using macro slide rails for precise DOF control.
Another thing you have to remember: light. The construction is extremely «dark». I had to use ISO 800 or even ISO 1600 while shooting during bright day. If you take indoor photos, make sure you have enough lamps to light shooted objects.
Samples
My favourite object for macro tests is an old AMD Am486DX4-100 processor. It has a 7×7 mm core with many details in it. You may not believe but only a 4×6 mm part fits into the frame:
Then I made photos of a yellow thread on paper. In the first picture you can see that the thread looks like a huge rope.
In the second picture I focused at the paper sheet. You can see how small the DOF is. Another interesting thing is surface details. The sheet that looked so smooth turned out to be like digged up soil. Please pay attention to vignetting! This photo was made using f/2.8 aperture. You can see that this value is inappropriate.
Here are the «heroes» of this post:
Equipment
I took an old Soviet «Yupiter-21» lens (200 mm, f/4) and even older «Helios-44» (58 mm, f/2). The first one was represented quite common tele-lens whereas the latter was the most abundant exchangeable lens in USSR (Helios-44 was a kit lens for ZENIT SLR-cameras).
Also I needed two color filters; the cheaper - the better. I bought a 52 mm filter for Helios-44 and a 58 mm one for Yupiter-21.
The last but not the least: an adapter ring. As far as use a Pentax DSLR camera, I have a quite cheap M42-A adapter. If you prefer other camera brands you have to look for a different ring. Certainly, if you use «native» lens, you do not need any adapters.
Making the thing
Let's start. First, we have to take the glass off the light filters. Yes, completely. Now you understand why I recommended to use as cheap filters as possible.
Next we combine residuary rings into one construction so that threads appear on the outside. I cannot advise you how to do it. In my case, I just inserted one ring into another and pressed strongly with hand.
After that we should twist the resulting construction between two lenses. Personally I got such a thing:
Shooting
I would recommend that you mount «longer» lens to the camera and set up the highest aperture possible (in my case - f/4). As for the «front» lens, it has to be closed up (up to f/8−f/11 or even f/16). Otherwise you will suffer from extra-high vignetting.
For making photos you should switch you camera into manual focus mode and set both focus rings to «infinity». Note: trying to focus using these rings will fail. You should adjust the position of your camera so that desired object appears in focus. The only working distance will be a flange focal distance of the front lens. The depth of field (DOF) will be extremely shallow, usually less that 1 mm. So be careful (smile). I would recommend using macro slide rails for precise DOF control.
Another thing you have to remember: light. The construction is extremely «dark». I had to use ISO 800 or even ISO 1600 while shooting during bright day. If you take indoor photos, make sure you have enough lamps to light shooted objects.
Samples
My favourite object for macro tests is an old AMD Am486DX4-100 processor. It has a 7×7 mm core with many details in it. You may not believe but only a 4×6 mm part fits into the frame:
Then I made photos of a yellow thread on paper. In the first picture you can see that the thread looks like a huge rope.
In the second picture I focused at the paper sheet. You can see how small the DOF is. Another interesting thing is surface details. The sheet that looked so smooth turned out to be like digged up soil. Please pay attention to vignetting! This photo was made using f/2.8 aperture. You can see that this value is inappropriate.
Here are the «heroes» of this post: