какая красота
Оригинал взят у joyscat в какая красота
Оригинал взят у the_aristocat в The whole story
The shift is done so today I got to try the stays properly on for the first time and for once I managed to leave enough bust room. And they feel sturdy and comfortable. And who would have thought such an ugly fabric could make a nice looking garment.
Now the facts:
The top layer is light brown cotton, the next two layers underneath are linen canvas and the lining is of fine white linen. They are completely hand stitched, mainly with pale blue linen thread, but I also used white linen occasionally and silk twist for the back lacing holes. The pattern is my own and, as I was drawing it, I tried to achieve a close resemblance to the original stays but also to achieve a better fit than in all my previous stays meaning more bust room and more curve in the lower back. I used cane for boning. I was planning on experimenting with high land cattle horn for durability, but as I haven't had problems with snapping in my previous stays and these were to become almost fully boned, I chose 1/4 inch wide flat caning that I narrowed down to an almost tooth pick width of 2-3 mm. The front and back bones are narrowed down from a sturdier 1/2 inch wide flat cane. The seams are covered with narrow silk ribbon and the stays are bound with straight cut self fabric strips as it looks like it was done that way in the original stays too. Armholes are bound with ivory chamois leather.
And a closer look.
It was an intensive month, but I remembered to take some construction pictures.
First I outlined the pieces by stitching around the edges through all three layers. After they were outlined, I stitched the boning channels.
Then I boned the channels.
I turned under the center front and center back edges and made the lacing holes.
Then I turned under the seam allowances and whip stitched them down.
I joined the pieces by whip stitching, covered the seams and started binding the stays.
I finished the binding an added shoulder traps.
The last step was adding the lining.
And the shift. I had started the shift a while ago by cutting the pieces, and I had already attached the gores with a selvage join. http://the-aristocat.livejournal.com/29921.html#cutid2 Now I finished the chemise with felled seams and plain hems. The gores are hard to see, but they are on the right side in the picture.
Оригинал взят у the_aristocat в The whole story
The shift is done so today I got to try the stays properly on for the first time and for once I managed to leave enough bust room. And they feel sturdy and comfortable. And who would have thought such an ugly fabric could make a nice looking garment.
Now the facts:
The top layer is light brown cotton, the next two layers underneath are linen canvas and the lining is of fine white linen. They are completely hand stitched, mainly with pale blue linen thread, but I also used white linen occasionally and silk twist for the back lacing holes. The pattern is my own and, as I was drawing it, I tried to achieve a close resemblance to the original stays but also to achieve a better fit than in all my previous stays meaning more bust room and more curve in the lower back. I used cane for boning. I was planning on experimenting with high land cattle horn for durability, but as I haven't had problems with snapping in my previous stays and these were to become almost fully boned, I chose 1/4 inch wide flat caning that I narrowed down to an almost tooth pick width of 2-3 mm. The front and back bones are narrowed down from a sturdier 1/2 inch wide flat cane. The seams are covered with narrow silk ribbon and the stays are bound with straight cut self fabric strips as it looks like it was done that way in the original stays too. Armholes are bound with ivory chamois leather.
And a closer look.
It was an intensive month, but I remembered to take some construction pictures.
First I outlined the pieces by stitching around the edges through all three layers. After they were outlined, I stitched the boning channels.
Then I boned the channels.
I turned under the center front and center back edges and made the lacing holes.
Then I turned under the seam allowances and whip stitched them down.
I joined the pieces by whip stitching, covered the seams and started binding the stays.
I finished the binding an added shoulder traps.
The last step was adding the lining.
And the shift. I had started the shift a while ago by cutting the pieces, and I had already attached the gores with a selvage join. http://the-aristocat.livejournal.com/29921.html#cutid2 Now I finished the chemise with felled seams and plain hems. The gores are hard to see, but they are on the right side in the picture.
