Sagada Day 2: Part 1
I realized that my entry of our second day in Sagada was really long, so I decided to put it in two parts. I know there's LJ cut and all, but it's so long, I haven't really finished it. :p Gabe (the Mac) is often being high jacked by family members who needed to use Skype or YM Voice, and I was out the whole afternoon with Drew. Hence, the two parts.
I woke up to the sound of church bells. Without looking at my watch, I knew it was 6 AM, the usual time I wake up. Sure enough, a few seconds later, my alarm went off, telling me to get up and get ready for our cave trip.
I heard Tito Romy outside, and later Joy and Tita Edith. Presea woke up soon after and we nudged Sayuri awake. “Tulog mantika,” Presea called it. Me, I just couldn’t get over the fact that I said “Ohayo gozaimasu” to a real Japanese, much as I said “Oyasumi nasai” to her last night. Wehehe, ang babaw ko.
It was cold outside, and I only had a light jacket to ward off the chill. Of course, it doesn’t help that I was wearing shorts either, but the climate was bearable --- so long as the wind didn’t blow. The six of us made our way to the Municipal Hall, where we made arrangements for a van and tour guides. There we met our “new teammates”, Jullah and Andrew. Julla’s from Bacolod, and is taking Andrew, a German currently residing in Shanghai, around the Philippines for the next two weeks.
On the way to the cave, our guide, Pid, stopped the van so we could see the Hanging Coffins. He told us that the coffins were placed a top two metal bars that were bored into the mountain side. The coffins were put into place by building ladders, and people would climb via that to put the coffins in place. Pid said his ancestors believed that they were one with nature and that having their bodies buried is like carrying the weight of the world on their shoulders. Of course, many of them are Christians and they do have a cemetery in Sagada, but the practice of putting the dead in such coffins still persist to this day.
We reached the cave and excitement was palpable in the air. Pid advised us to leave excess things behind: Jackets, cellphones, wallets, etc. We could bring our cameras, but its best bring as few things as possible. I didn’t really have much stuff in the first place, so I just hitched my bag a little higher and prayed that it won’t break. I had confidence in it as it was leather but the straps seemed a bit frayed so I was worried.
Pid and our other guide, Jack (I think?) told us that we had to go by fours, with the weakest in front. It was decided that the guys, Tito Romy and Andrew, would go last. So we went off, trailing after the two Korean girls who disappeared very quickly while we seemed to plod along in a rather leisurely pace.
The Cave
I have to honestly say that the experience was quite scary. Entrance palang, aabutan ka na ng kaba. Ang dilim, tapos ang tarik. The two gas lamps were sufficient enough to guide your way, but somehow you want more, like a flashlight or even a floodlight. The rocks were slippery with mud, and your first fear is that you’ll slip and crash into the dark abyss below.
We made our way to the jagged rocks and finally reached the part where a stench of some god-awful thing reached us. The twitter of bats echoed from somewhere above us, and I had an idea what that smell was. Up front, Presea, Joy and Tita Edith were talking to Pid and when I heard some shrieks and cries of “Ewww!”, I somehow figured that the mud coating the rocks wasn’t mud at all. I didn’t tell Sayuri, but I did tell Jullah and Andrew. In fairness, it wasn’t that bad as the bats were herbivores, but still. On the first clear water that I came across, I washed my hands clean.
We started to hear water flowing, and when we got to a place where the rocks began to look smooth and light, Pid told us to take off our footwear. Er, what? You want me to take my aqua shoes off after you said they were the best for spelunking? But since everyone else was doing the same thing, I figured, what the heck. I was putting my trust on these two men whom I just met a few minutes ago, and believe that they would take me back safe and sound, and whole.
Barefoot, we made our way across the rocks and flowing water, stepping on areas where Pid and Jack told us to. To my surprise, the smooth rocks were actually a bit rough, and Pid explained (he was the more talkative and kwela of the two guides) that these were sand stone, with fine grooves marring the rocks’ surface, giving us traction to walk across them despite the water sluicing across. Barefoot would be the best way to walk across them, as shoes and/or slippers may not have same hold.
The Sumaging Cave is truly amazing. Pid and Jack pointed out the various rock formations and how they looked like certain animals or places. The most amusing part was when they pointed out the things that made it a “Porn Cave”. Seriously.
Porn cave
Now I had an idea, as there was a post card in the house we stayed in, but I didn’t think it was that blatant! The first we saw was the King and I was laughing out so hard because it really does resemble a er, man’s reproductive organ. Then Pid pointed the Queen and man, that brought about more laughter from all of us. A lot of people whom I showed a picture of the Queen to said it looked like a butt. I say it looks like something else.
I didn’t see the Princess, and the Prince, which completes the quartet, was really too small for me to see if it was really a miniature King. Really, the things these people think of haha. Still, it was a really good laugh.
Spelunking high
It’s rather hard to describe the entire trip through the cave. Difficult, well, not really, as we were able to make it in and out without much problems. Scary, yes, because hello, it’s a cave and you don’t know what lurks inside and who knows if you won’t trip and fall right? Exhilarating because, well, you’re seeing something new and something that nature made centuries ago. Accomplished because you conquered it and live to brag about the adventure.
There was a lot of laughter the entire time. Partly, I figure, to ward off the apprehensions we had, but mostly because it was a really fun experience. When in Sagada, go spelunking.
Note: If it’s your first time, don’t go to the Cave Connection. That takes about six to eight hours, depending on how fast your pace is. My friends who’ve experienced it say it’s truly grueling, but exciting. Then again, I’m happy I’ve done Sumaging.
There’s a part in the cave where Pid asked us if we wanted to go the “long way” or take the shortcut. The latter gets us to the “rice terraces” and the pool quickly, while with the long way, you had to wade in rather deep waters and sometimes even swim in really cold waters. How cold? Well, I couldn’t really tell because my body had most like acclimated to the temperature, but clouds form when we talk. That cold.
Everyone opted to take the shortcut, but Jullah and Andrew took the long way. Pid had them leave all their things behind with us, then he and Andrew stripped down to their shorts. That gave us an idea that it would be much rougher than the route we were going to take.
The last part had us going down a really high rock that was so smooth that we didn’t have any place to put our feet against. The guide for the Koreans (they were heading back) had to climb halfway and perch precariously against the rock. We had to use him as a sort of leverage to go down. Because of this, Tita Edith opted out and decided to stay behind, without any light. Of course, Tito Romy stayed with her and it was just us girls left.
We made our way down and got a bit of rest. It was the part of the cave that had the biggest flat (or close to it) areas compared to the rest. This was where we found the rice terraces (so named because of how they look) and a deep pool. Here we also met up with Jullah and Andrew, who were coming from another path somewhere at the bottom of the cavern. I asked them how it was, and they said that it was rough but interesting. Jullah said Pid was fond of teasing. I asked Andrew how the water was and he said it was good. He then asked why we opted the shortcut and I answered that we weren’t good at swimming.
He replied, “You have so many beautiful beaches in the Philippines! You don’t go to the beach?” It proved to be an interesting conversation, hearing how a foreigner sees our country. For the record, I do go to the beach (hello, taga Zambales ata ako… sort of). I just can’t swim really well.
Pictures were taken as all good tourists do, and we were laughing and having a pretty good time despite being wet. Like I said, it was truly an experience that can’t quite be put into words (unless perhaps you’re a better writer than I am, hehe).
Going back up is another adventure. If going in the cave filled you with anticipation and slight fear, the trek back out will frustrate you because though it’s faster, it is more tiring. Hey, we all find it easier to go down the stairs than up right? It’s quite like that.
I mentioned the part where we had the guide help us go down. Obviously, they had to help us go up. So Pid pulled himself halfway up like Spiderman. Grabbing hold of a small outcropping rock, we climbed and used his knee as a footrest. Good thing Tito Romy was already up there to help us climb. It was quite dangerous as Pid could slip at anytime, and that one could hit their head on the outcropping rock. I think someone did.
Another interesting part was how to get back up a very steep area we had the guides help up climb down. Called the King’s Curtain, it was about six feet high, and there was no way we could climb back up as it was so smooth. Earlier I had spotted a rope tied to a huge rock and that was what we were going to use to climb up.
Feeling confident, I went first. It wasn’t as bad as I thought, but my arms surely ached the day after. I climbed up, pulling my weight and using my legs to reach the top. Once there, I raised my arms like boxing winners do. It was so cool, even it was exhausting.
We all made our way up the rope, then up the other rocks then up the limestone stairs that was coated with bat poop. Then we climbed up the long staircase that was carved at the entrance. By the time we reached the top, we were breathing heavily and our stomachs rumbling for food. None of us had any breakfast whatsoever.
We waited for our van to arrive, then Pid took us to see some more coffins. Presea and I wanted to try Lemon House, and everyone decided to go along.
Another food trip
Like most of the houses and establishments in Sagada, the outside of Lemon House was unremarkable. But stepping inside, you’ll be greeted by wood paneled walls, low chairs and tables set for intimate and casual dining. Menu wise, they didn’t seem to have much to offer, but we were there for the pies and nothing else.
Lemon pies with a choice of coffee or tea was ordered. We even managed to go to the back of the house to wash our hands. I saw some beautiful wood furniture that I would love to have at home, and the whole house smelled nicely of pine. It was the owner, Joseph Daoas, who took our orders and chatted a bit about his business and home.
We settled in on the chairs and made ourselves at home. We took our time relaxing and getting to know each other more. Presea and I took emo pictures, while Sayuri and Andrew played with the very friendly kitten (I presume) the Daoas’s own. It was a funny creature. It loves being petted and stroked, and is content on sitting on our laps. He spent most of the time on Andrew’s lap and when it was time for the German to go, the kitten literally dug his claws into his shorts. When Andrew got the kitten off and onto the floor, it tried to jump back onto his lap. When the kitten realized that he couldn’t go there, he looked for the nearest available lap: Sayuri’s.
Finally, the discomfort of our damp clothes against the cold air had us getting up and going back to the resthouse. That was after a few minutes of debating how much each person had to pay for what we ate… as well as consuming several slices of lemon and egg pies.
I have to say, the pies there are amazing. It’s the first time I ever had lemon pie, topped with meringue and honey to boot. I don’t remember it being available in any of the restaurants I’ve been to, and if they were, it would be expensive. One slice here is P20 (P150 for the whole pie). Brewed coffee (which Mr. Daoas told me was barako) is P20 a cup. San ka pa? I love their place, it’s so homey and comfortable, I literally laid down on the floor for a few minutes, closed my eyes and savored the good feeling of exhaustion.
Outside, everyone was waving goodbye to Sir Joseph when I spotted this odd looking plant. I asked what it was and he plucked one of fruits from the tree. It looked like a big green rambutan, except that it was much lighter. Sir Joseph told me I could have it. Happily, I carried the curious looking fruit back to the guest house (sidenote, I was able to carry it all the way to Manila. It looked a little deflated, but it was still whole until I arrived at home).
We decided to have some lunch and help Sayuri get ready for her trip back to Baguio. We wished she could stay a little longer but she had a flight to catch on Monday morning. Luckily, we ran into Jay-Jay and John who were also heading to Baguio. I asked Jay to keep an eye out for Sayuri and he graciously agreed.
Since we had an hour to kill, we headed off to the Masferré Inn to eat. We asked the friendly server what was good and for how many people. She said that each serving is good for two (with the exception of the plate thing that was a full meal). So we ordered Lechon Kawali, Cauliflower with Century Egg and Vegetable Rice for Sayuri.
The funny thing was, the vegetable rice was good for two and we didn’t know that. Sayuri loved the lechon kawali, as much as she loved the chicharon and the rambutan she ate the day before.
We headed back to the bus and after one last picture (or pictures?), let Sayuri board and leave for Baguio.
Part 2 to follow. Photos here.
I woke up to the sound of church bells. Without looking at my watch, I knew it was 6 AM, the usual time I wake up. Sure enough, a few seconds later, my alarm went off, telling me to get up and get ready for our cave trip.
I heard Tito Romy outside, and later Joy and Tita Edith. Presea woke up soon after and we nudged Sayuri awake. “Tulog mantika,” Presea called it. Me, I just couldn’t get over the fact that I said “Ohayo gozaimasu” to a real Japanese, much as I said “Oyasumi nasai” to her last night. Wehehe, ang babaw ko.
It was cold outside, and I only had a light jacket to ward off the chill. Of course, it doesn’t help that I was wearing shorts either, but the climate was bearable --- so long as the wind didn’t blow. The six of us made our way to the Municipal Hall, where we made arrangements for a van and tour guides. There we met our “new teammates”, Jullah and Andrew. Julla’s from Bacolod, and is taking Andrew, a German currently residing in Shanghai, around the Philippines for the next two weeks.
On the way to the cave, our guide, Pid, stopped the van so we could see the Hanging Coffins. He told us that the coffins were placed a top two metal bars that were bored into the mountain side. The coffins were put into place by building ladders, and people would climb via that to put the coffins in place. Pid said his ancestors believed that they were one with nature and that having their bodies buried is like carrying the weight of the world on their shoulders. Of course, many of them are Christians and they do have a cemetery in Sagada, but the practice of putting the dead in such coffins still persist to this day.
We reached the cave and excitement was palpable in the air. Pid advised us to leave excess things behind: Jackets, cellphones, wallets, etc. We could bring our cameras, but its best bring as few things as possible. I didn’t really have much stuff in the first place, so I just hitched my bag a little higher and prayed that it won’t break. I had confidence in it as it was leather but the straps seemed a bit frayed so I was worried.
Pid and our other guide, Jack (I think?) told us that we had to go by fours, with the weakest in front. It was decided that the guys, Tito Romy and Andrew, would go last. So we went off, trailing after the two Korean girls who disappeared very quickly while we seemed to plod along in a rather leisurely pace.
The Cave
I have to honestly say that the experience was quite scary. Entrance palang, aabutan ka na ng kaba. Ang dilim, tapos ang tarik. The two gas lamps were sufficient enough to guide your way, but somehow you want more, like a flashlight or even a floodlight. The rocks were slippery with mud, and your first fear is that you’ll slip and crash into the dark abyss below.
We made our way to the jagged rocks and finally reached the part where a stench of some god-awful thing reached us. The twitter of bats echoed from somewhere above us, and I had an idea what that smell was. Up front, Presea, Joy and Tita Edith were talking to Pid and when I heard some shrieks and cries of “Ewww!”, I somehow figured that the mud coating the rocks wasn’t mud at all. I didn’t tell Sayuri, but I did tell Jullah and Andrew. In fairness, it wasn’t that bad as the bats were herbivores, but still. On the first clear water that I came across, I washed my hands clean.
We started to hear water flowing, and when we got to a place where the rocks began to look smooth and light, Pid told us to take off our footwear. Er, what? You want me to take my aqua shoes off after you said they were the best for spelunking? But since everyone else was doing the same thing, I figured, what the heck. I was putting my trust on these two men whom I just met a few minutes ago, and believe that they would take me back safe and sound, and whole.
Barefoot, we made our way across the rocks and flowing water, stepping on areas where Pid and Jack told us to. To my surprise, the smooth rocks were actually a bit rough, and Pid explained (he was the more talkative and kwela of the two guides) that these were sand stone, with fine grooves marring the rocks’ surface, giving us traction to walk across them despite the water sluicing across. Barefoot would be the best way to walk across them, as shoes and/or slippers may not have same hold.
The Sumaging Cave is truly amazing. Pid and Jack pointed out the various rock formations and how they looked like certain animals or places. The most amusing part was when they pointed out the things that made it a “Porn Cave”. Seriously.
Porn cave
Now I had an idea, as there was a post card in the house we stayed in, but I didn’t think it was that blatant! The first we saw was the King and I was laughing out so hard because it really does resemble a er, man’s reproductive organ. Then Pid pointed the Queen and man, that brought about more laughter from all of us. A lot of people whom I showed a picture of the Queen to said it looked like a butt. I say it looks like something else.
I didn’t see the Princess, and the Prince, which completes the quartet, was really too small for me to see if it was really a miniature King. Really, the things these people think of haha. Still, it was a really good laugh.
Spelunking high
It’s rather hard to describe the entire trip through the cave. Difficult, well, not really, as we were able to make it in and out without much problems. Scary, yes, because hello, it’s a cave and you don’t know what lurks inside and who knows if you won’t trip and fall right? Exhilarating because, well, you’re seeing something new and something that nature made centuries ago. Accomplished because you conquered it and live to brag about the adventure.
There was a lot of laughter the entire time. Partly, I figure, to ward off the apprehensions we had, but mostly because it was a really fun experience. When in Sagada, go spelunking.
Note: If it’s your first time, don’t go to the Cave Connection. That takes about six to eight hours, depending on how fast your pace is. My friends who’ve experienced it say it’s truly grueling, but exciting. Then again, I’m happy I’ve done Sumaging.
There’s a part in the cave where Pid asked us if we wanted to go the “long way” or take the shortcut. The latter gets us to the “rice terraces” and the pool quickly, while with the long way, you had to wade in rather deep waters and sometimes even swim in really cold waters. How cold? Well, I couldn’t really tell because my body had most like acclimated to the temperature, but clouds form when we talk. That cold.
Everyone opted to take the shortcut, but Jullah and Andrew took the long way. Pid had them leave all their things behind with us, then he and Andrew stripped down to their shorts. That gave us an idea that it would be much rougher than the route we were going to take.
The last part had us going down a really high rock that was so smooth that we didn’t have any place to put our feet against. The guide for the Koreans (they were heading back) had to climb halfway and perch precariously against the rock. We had to use him as a sort of leverage to go down. Because of this, Tita Edith opted out and decided to stay behind, without any light. Of course, Tito Romy stayed with her and it was just us girls left.
We made our way down and got a bit of rest. It was the part of the cave that had the biggest flat (or close to it) areas compared to the rest. This was where we found the rice terraces (so named because of how they look) and a deep pool. Here we also met up with Jullah and Andrew, who were coming from another path somewhere at the bottom of the cavern. I asked them how it was, and they said that it was rough but interesting. Jullah said Pid was fond of teasing. I asked Andrew how the water was and he said it was good. He then asked why we opted the shortcut and I answered that we weren’t good at swimming.
He replied, “You have so many beautiful beaches in the Philippines! You don’t go to the beach?” It proved to be an interesting conversation, hearing how a foreigner sees our country. For the record, I do go to the beach (hello, taga Zambales ata ako… sort of). I just can’t swim really well.
Pictures were taken as all good tourists do, and we were laughing and having a pretty good time despite being wet. Like I said, it was truly an experience that can’t quite be put into words (unless perhaps you’re a better writer than I am, hehe).
Going back up is another adventure. If going in the cave filled you with anticipation and slight fear, the trek back out will frustrate you because though it’s faster, it is more tiring. Hey, we all find it easier to go down the stairs than up right? It’s quite like that.
I mentioned the part where we had the guide help us go down. Obviously, they had to help us go up. So Pid pulled himself halfway up like Spiderman. Grabbing hold of a small outcropping rock, we climbed and used his knee as a footrest. Good thing Tito Romy was already up there to help us climb. It was quite dangerous as Pid could slip at anytime, and that one could hit their head on the outcropping rock. I think someone did.
Another interesting part was how to get back up a very steep area we had the guides help up climb down. Called the King’s Curtain, it was about six feet high, and there was no way we could climb back up as it was so smooth. Earlier I had spotted a rope tied to a huge rock and that was what we were going to use to climb up.
Feeling confident, I went first. It wasn’t as bad as I thought, but my arms surely ached the day after. I climbed up, pulling my weight and using my legs to reach the top. Once there, I raised my arms like boxing winners do. It was so cool, even it was exhausting.
We all made our way up the rope, then up the other rocks then up the limestone stairs that was coated with bat poop. Then we climbed up the long staircase that was carved at the entrance. By the time we reached the top, we were breathing heavily and our stomachs rumbling for food. None of us had any breakfast whatsoever.
We waited for our van to arrive, then Pid took us to see some more coffins. Presea and I wanted to try Lemon House, and everyone decided to go along.
Another food trip
Like most of the houses and establishments in Sagada, the outside of Lemon House was unremarkable. But stepping inside, you’ll be greeted by wood paneled walls, low chairs and tables set for intimate and casual dining. Menu wise, they didn’t seem to have much to offer, but we were there for the pies and nothing else.
Lemon pies with a choice of coffee or tea was ordered. We even managed to go to the back of the house to wash our hands. I saw some beautiful wood furniture that I would love to have at home, and the whole house smelled nicely of pine. It was the owner, Joseph Daoas, who took our orders and chatted a bit about his business and home.
We settled in on the chairs and made ourselves at home. We took our time relaxing and getting to know each other more. Presea and I took emo pictures, while Sayuri and Andrew played with the very friendly kitten (I presume) the Daoas’s own. It was a funny creature. It loves being petted and stroked, and is content on sitting on our laps. He spent most of the time on Andrew’s lap and when it was time for the German to go, the kitten literally dug his claws into his shorts. When Andrew got the kitten off and onto the floor, it tried to jump back onto his lap. When the kitten realized that he couldn’t go there, he looked for the nearest available lap: Sayuri’s.
Finally, the discomfort of our damp clothes against the cold air had us getting up and going back to the resthouse. That was after a few minutes of debating how much each person had to pay for what we ate… as well as consuming several slices of lemon and egg pies.
I have to say, the pies there are amazing. It’s the first time I ever had lemon pie, topped with meringue and honey to boot. I don’t remember it being available in any of the restaurants I’ve been to, and if they were, it would be expensive. One slice here is P20 (P150 for the whole pie). Brewed coffee (which Mr. Daoas told me was barako) is P20 a cup. San ka pa? I love their place, it’s so homey and comfortable, I literally laid down on the floor for a few minutes, closed my eyes and savored the good feeling of exhaustion.
Outside, everyone was waving goodbye to Sir Joseph when I spotted this odd looking plant. I asked what it was and he plucked one of fruits from the tree. It looked like a big green rambutan, except that it was much lighter. Sir Joseph told me I could have it. Happily, I carried the curious looking fruit back to the guest house (sidenote, I was able to carry it all the way to Manila. It looked a little deflated, but it was still whole until I arrived at home).
We decided to have some lunch and help Sayuri get ready for her trip back to Baguio. We wished she could stay a little longer but she had a flight to catch on Monday morning. Luckily, we ran into Jay-Jay and John who were also heading to Baguio. I asked Jay to keep an eye out for Sayuri and he graciously agreed.
Since we had an hour to kill, we headed off to the Masferré Inn to eat. We asked the friendly server what was good and for how many people. She said that each serving is good for two (with the exception of the plate thing that was a full meal). So we ordered Lechon Kawali, Cauliflower with Century Egg and Vegetable Rice for Sayuri.
The funny thing was, the vegetable rice was good for two and we didn’t know that. Sayuri loved the lechon kawali, as much as she loved the chicharon and the rambutan she ate the day before.
We headed back to the bus and after one last picture (or pictures?), let Sayuri board and leave for Baguio.
Part 2 to follow. Photos here.