Heavy Kit
Now that we're regularly cooking for groups of six to twelve people, I seem to use a bit of everything - copper, cast-iron, black steel, stainless steel, alu-teflon, terracotta - but really I prefer the heavy sort of kit and the slow sort of cooking: it allows a 'petite pause' when I can get out on the terrace to have a glass of wine with people.
There's always an element of theatre when you've got 40' of kitchen/dining space to play in - and since there's little going on in a dozy little village like ours, the evening meal becomes the biggest show in town. So there's all the more reason to make dramatic-looking dishes: and tajine cooking provides just the right amount of 'exotique' while staying true to our local/seasonal/artisanal script.
The terracotta we use - cazuelas and tajines - are heavy kit. There are three main types of tajine: the traditional semi-glazed dense-clay ones (where the glaze is only on the inside of the base, and may contain a small fraction of lead), the modern version with lead-free glaze and a much tougher clay (but a factory look), and lastly the highly decorative, fully-glazed sort that are for serving only.
A new tagine set needs first to be submerged in water for at least 1 hour (I saw 12 hours somewhere - so I put mine in the pool overnight). Rub the inside of the base and lid with olive oil. Put into a cold oven and set temperature at 350 F and leave for 1.5 to 2 hours. The tajine is now sealed/proved, and ready to take the heat. But never direct flame.
If using gas you will need a flame-tamer, or heat diffuser like wire mesh - or a cheap aluminium pot lid with the handle removed, and hammered flat. Otherwise electric or vitreous ceramic tops are fine. The authentic Maghrebi (north African) artisanal tajine was designed to be cooked over glowing coals. Old vine stems or camel dung would have been the primary source of fuel - wood there being rare, expensive, and reserved for more important uses - and anyway far too hot.
If the tajine is going to be packed full in order to feed lots of people then it must be built up carefully. Start with some olive oil to just cover the entire base, then lay a bed of pencil-sized sticks of carrot & celery (being the hardest & slowest to cook). Then a bed of potatos in thick discs. Now build up layers of chunky-cut peppers and onions and chicken (or partridge or well-marinated rabbit or thin-cut pre-browned lamb). Above that, layer aubergines and courgettes (softer, quicker-cooking).
Sprinkle Ras el Hanout spice as you layer, and intersperse each layer with fine-cut garlic & a few quarters of tomato to provide an unctuous moistness. Add a little salt & pepper as you layer. Herbs can be added as you go, and a few torn bay-leaves can be tucked in as the pyramid mounts.
The whole heap should then be encased with an outer wall of potatoes cut in thickish discs. Lastly, pour a cup or two of water/stock over the whole thing.
Cover and start on low/medium heat. The aim is to see a slight spluttering around the rim as a head of steam builds and escapes. If this tell-tale sign stops - it's either a bit more heat, or more liquid needed. Lift and prod after 40 minutes: cooking times are imprecise as all depends on size of tajine and how packed full, and which ingredients you use. Practice on friends before going public. Serve with couscous. And raita. And pitta bread.
So it's hard stuff at the bottom to keep the direct heat off - then the meat in the lower-middle zone, then softer stuff on top. It's fun to construct, generates interest among idle passers-by - and looks fantastic when the lid is swept off with a flourish,at the table.
NB you should never cook earthenware tagines with the conical top in the oven .The purpose of the conical top is to remain cold while the bottom maintains a nice coddling heat as the tagine slowly simmers to perfection. The lid is shaped to direct the heat and cooking steam back down through the food. If you want to brown the meat and/or reduce the sauce then remove the top and put the base in the oven. But if you really want to be authentic and prepare tagines as they do in Morocco, you rarely brown the meat.
Here are a couple of useful links:
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=63502
http://www.tagines.com/
