Road Trip part 1: Coney Island
Finally took a crack at going through photos from last weekend's roadtrip. Finished up with the Coney Island pics as I needed to send them to Dagna at NightViews. I wrote a piece for her to go along with them and they should be in the June issue -- and in colour. Good times.
Here is the Coney Island log/article...
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Roadtrip diaries 2005
Destination: Anti-Wonderlands.
Summer is almost here and, quite frankly, I’m already sick of all bright colours, flip flops, popsicles, and bored teenagers loitering on corners. Looking for an escape from all the cheery ambience, I called up some friends, went out to a stinkin’ patio, and by the end of the evening had collectively planned out a road trip to the ‘anti-wonderlands’ of the north eastern US.
The plan was to visit the ghosts of summer - places that had once seen much brighter days. First stop would be the infamous Coney Island , New York and then we’d trip over the NJ state line to see the ruins of Asbury Park, New Jersey.
These two seaside wonderlands were once tourist havens, synonymous with summer, where ice cream and amusement brought people in from near and far. Now, decades later, fading in the summer sun, they long for the glory days and make deluded attempts to relive and revive.
Part 1: Coney Island.
Forever etched in pop culture as the birthplace of the hot dog, the modern roller coaster, the world’s largest Ferris Wheel (the Wonder Wheel), and preserver of the long-since-defunct tradition of side shows (a.k.a. freak shows), Coney Island still has a little fuel left in the tank. While a number of historic buildings and rides in Coney went down in first half of the 20th century due to fire, some interesting sights still remain.
Off the main strip, Surf Ave, you can still experience the hot dog palaces, arcades, the Coney Island Side Show, and an antique carousel that’s open to all ages. I wouldn’t recommend the latter as some sketchy, thugged out ladies were running the show when we arrived, but the Side Show, is worth a stop.
Though lacking the draw of its early 20th century predecessors, the Coney Island show is one of the only shows of its kind left in the western world. Admission was a mere $3-$5 and worth it for the shock of seeing someone hammer a huge nail into their face (ouch!), swallow a sword, run electricity through their body, breathe fire or contort in the most unnatural of ways.
Walking over and through the main amusement area is a bit of an odd mix of sights as well. While most rides and signage have been cleaned up and given a fresh bright coat of paint, a number of broken down old buildings and very faded games run by very faded folks throw back to the days of old. The contrast between the two is jarring - almost a surreal dream of sorts.
One of the most basic and yet most striking contrasts is in the arcade areas where colourful modern video games sit beside bizarre antique mechanical games. The old fortune teller and test-your-strength games not only seem out of a dream, but are still fully functional… it’s incredible. Second prize goes to the food stands where your gleaming bottle of diet coke and pogo stick won’t be paid for with Interac - that’s for sure. I think the cash register had a hand crank.
All of that is still just a lead up though. Looking upwards, you can’t miss the main attractions. The Cyclone coaster and The Wonder Wheel (national and state landmarks respectively) are absolute legends and probably what keeps people coming back here - and in turn, keeping Coney Island alive.
Built in 1927 for $100,000 (wow), the Cyclone is one of the last wooden roller coasters standing in the US. The paint job definitely helps with appearances but the creaking beams are unmistakeably authentic. While the ride isn’t very long and there isn’t a loop or twist to be found on the track, something about an 80 year old wooden coaster with 12 drops just equates thrills for the riders. On a cloudy Sunday afternoon, we’re in luck, finding a very short line-up to boot.
Just across the park, the Wonder Wheel towers over the area at 150’. The quintessential Ferris wheel, it one was built in 1920 and still runs daily while keeping up its perfect safety record. Walking anywhere near it, you can’t help but look up at its swinging cars in awe. This marvel has been here for nearly a century and still it ceases to amaze visitors like ourselves - imagine that.
Still, the height was making me a bit queasy and we had to get back on the road, so we backtracked down Surf Ave to get an ‘original’ hot dog at Nathan’s (a hot dog stand turned hot dog palace since 1916) before heading out. It was pretty darn good (for a hot dog) and a fitting way to end off the Coney Island trip.
Piling into the car, we head off to our truly budget motel (Econolodge - oh man, don’t do it) and prepare for the next destination: Asbury Park, NJ.
Here is the Coney Island log/article...
--
Roadtrip diaries 2005
Destination: Anti-Wonderlands.
Summer is almost here and, quite frankly, I’m already sick of all bright colours, flip flops, popsicles, and bored teenagers loitering on corners. Looking for an escape from all the cheery ambience, I called up some friends, went out to a stinkin’ patio, and by the end of the evening had collectively planned out a road trip to the ‘anti-wonderlands’ of the north eastern US.
The plan was to visit the ghosts of summer - places that had once seen much brighter days. First stop would be the infamous Coney Island , New York and then we’d trip over the NJ state line to see the ruins of Asbury Park, New Jersey.
These two seaside wonderlands were once tourist havens, synonymous with summer, where ice cream and amusement brought people in from near and far. Now, decades later, fading in the summer sun, they long for the glory days and make deluded attempts to relive and revive.
Part 1: Coney Island.
Forever etched in pop culture as the birthplace of the hot dog, the modern roller coaster, the world’s largest Ferris Wheel (the Wonder Wheel), and preserver of the long-since-defunct tradition of side shows (a.k.a. freak shows), Coney Island still has a little fuel left in the tank. While a number of historic buildings and rides in Coney went down in first half of the 20th century due to fire, some interesting sights still remain.
Off the main strip, Surf Ave, you can still experience the hot dog palaces, arcades, the Coney Island Side Show, and an antique carousel that’s open to all ages. I wouldn’t recommend the latter as some sketchy, thugged out ladies were running the show when we arrived, but the Side Show, is worth a stop.
Though lacking the draw of its early 20th century predecessors, the Coney Island show is one of the only shows of its kind left in the western world. Admission was a mere $3-$5 and worth it for the shock of seeing someone hammer a huge nail into their face (ouch!), swallow a sword, run electricity through their body, breathe fire or contort in the most unnatural of ways.
Walking over and through the main amusement area is a bit of an odd mix of sights as well. While most rides and signage have been cleaned up and given a fresh bright coat of paint, a number of broken down old buildings and very faded games run by very faded folks throw back to the days of old. The contrast between the two is jarring - almost a surreal dream of sorts.
One of the most basic and yet most striking contrasts is in the arcade areas where colourful modern video games sit beside bizarre antique mechanical games. The old fortune teller and test-your-strength games not only seem out of a dream, but are still fully functional… it’s incredible. Second prize goes to the food stands where your gleaming bottle of diet coke and pogo stick won’t be paid for with Interac - that’s for sure. I think the cash register had a hand crank.
All of that is still just a lead up though. Looking upwards, you can’t miss the main attractions. The Cyclone coaster and The Wonder Wheel (national and state landmarks respectively) are absolute legends and probably what keeps people coming back here - and in turn, keeping Coney Island alive.
Built in 1927 for $100,000 (wow), the Cyclone is one of the last wooden roller coasters standing in the US. The paint job definitely helps with appearances but the creaking beams are unmistakeably authentic. While the ride isn’t very long and there isn’t a loop or twist to be found on the track, something about an 80 year old wooden coaster with 12 drops just equates thrills for the riders. On a cloudy Sunday afternoon, we’re in luck, finding a very short line-up to boot.
Just across the park, the Wonder Wheel towers over the area at 150’. The quintessential Ferris wheel, it one was built in 1920 and still runs daily while keeping up its perfect safety record. Walking anywhere near it, you can’t help but look up at its swinging cars in awe. This marvel has been here for nearly a century and still it ceases to amaze visitors like ourselves - imagine that.
Still, the height was making me a bit queasy and we had to get back on the road, so we backtracked down Surf Ave to get an ‘original’ hot dog at Nathan’s (a hot dog stand turned hot dog palace since 1916) before heading out. It was pretty darn good (for a hot dog) and a fitting way to end off the Coney Island trip.
Piling into the car, we head off to our truly budget motel (Econolodge - oh man, don’t do it) and prepare for the next destination: Asbury Park, NJ.