Borgo
For those who are downhearted at the direction Ristorante Valentino has taken by shaking off its Italian mom-and-pop feel and expanding (plus it’s near-impossible to get in nowadays, a deplorable situation given the quality of the food), you may lift your heads. Borgo is the brainchild of no less than 3 Italian gentlemen, and if current standards are kept, will give Valentino’s a run for its money.
Tucked into the row of shophouses along Dunearn Rd that also houses Piper’s Pies and the greatly overhyped Corduroy and Finch, Borgo presents good, hearty Italian cooking at prices more commensurate than Valentino’s. The relatively narrow space is made cozy with coarsely-textured walls and soothing lighting - the feel is somewhat like being in one of those underground restaurants you find in European cities. The narrow cave-like space leads the eye toward a glass box containing the expansive grilling station, from which the maitre de rotisserie holds court while manning the grill.
Unlike swankier establishments (or those aspiring to be), Borgo still believes in grissini (breadsticks) on every table instead of baking their own. This seems a bit of a pity since many of the rustic sauces could be mopped up with a nice piece of crusty bread, but this is a minor complaint. The look of the menu feels a bit downmarket though, with its Word-art images and indifferent layout.
The food itself however makes this all quite forgivable. Borgo’s chefs are not into foams and emulsions, deconstructions, or witty juxtapositions of flavours - they are firmly middle-of-the-road, comforting and familiar, and they do it well. Tomato soup comes thick, blood- red, and sears the tongue with vibrant flavour. A grilled squid salad is nicely done, the smoky and not-a-bit rubbery white rings sitting on perfectly dressed salad greens. In fact someone once told me that the best test for a restaurant is to order a simple green salad. The more ambitious invariably gloss over humble staples, and it’s nice to know that Borgo pays them due attention.
Visually the grill is the centre of attention at Borgo’s, and it shows in the dishes. Roast lamb cutlets are a specialty and with good reason - the tender meat is lovingly grilled and full of piquant, smoky flavours. Ossobucco a la Milanese is also a star attraction with the familiar counterpoint of creamy risotto and tender shanks. A dish of papardelle with wild boar sauce was tasty but the meat was a tad dry. Pizzas are another staple here, and Borgo creates wonderfully crispy thin ones with a variety of toppings.
A chief complaint of Valentino’s is that the desserts are below-par - at Borgo however they are regarded as the pinnacle of an enjoyable meal. A chocolate cake with a molten centre is distinctively un-Italian, but it’s just too good to pass over. Crème caramel, another old stalwart, is nicely done with a scoop of home-made ice-cream. The day’s special was given the rather nondescript name of “Grandma’s dessert” and looked a bit like a very messy tiramisu. However it was rich with layers of mascarpone, hazelnuts, chocolate and sponge and tasted like a sugar-lover’s dream.
The service is friendly and very efficient (on both occasions all our food arrived within an hour). If subtlety and wit are what you want, this is clearly not the place for you. Like most places dealing in old favourites, the range of flavours is necessarily limited; tomatoes are used liberally in many dishes - warming, but it doesn’t do anything for variety. Still, if you want a hearty meal at a reasonable price in unpretentious, cozy surroundings, then Borgo is a good choice. And a big plus - corkage is cheap, so bring your own plonk!
Borgo
789 Bukit Timah Road
Tel: 6466-7762
(Parking readily available at Guthrie House off Sixth Ave)
Tucked into the row of shophouses along Dunearn Rd that also houses Piper’s Pies and the greatly overhyped Corduroy and Finch, Borgo presents good, hearty Italian cooking at prices more commensurate than Valentino’s. The relatively narrow space is made cozy with coarsely-textured walls and soothing lighting - the feel is somewhat like being in one of those underground restaurants you find in European cities. The narrow cave-like space leads the eye toward a glass box containing the expansive grilling station, from which the maitre de rotisserie holds court while manning the grill.
Unlike swankier establishments (or those aspiring to be), Borgo still believes in grissini (breadsticks) on every table instead of baking their own. This seems a bit of a pity since many of the rustic sauces could be mopped up with a nice piece of crusty bread, but this is a minor complaint. The look of the menu feels a bit downmarket though, with its Word-art images and indifferent layout.
The food itself however makes this all quite forgivable. Borgo’s chefs are not into foams and emulsions, deconstructions, or witty juxtapositions of flavours - they are firmly middle-of-the-road, comforting and familiar, and they do it well. Tomato soup comes thick, blood- red, and sears the tongue with vibrant flavour. A grilled squid salad is nicely done, the smoky and not-a-bit rubbery white rings sitting on perfectly dressed salad greens. In fact someone once told me that the best test for a restaurant is to order a simple green salad. The more ambitious invariably gloss over humble staples, and it’s nice to know that Borgo pays them due attention.
Visually the grill is the centre of attention at Borgo’s, and it shows in the dishes. Roast lamb cutlets are a specialty and with good reason - the tender meat is lovingly grilled and full of piquant, smoky flavours. Ossobucco a la Milanese is also a star attraction with the familiar counterpoint of creamy risotto and tender shanks. A dish of papardelle with wild boar sauce was tasty but the meat was a tad dry. Pizzas are another staple here, and Borgo creates wonderfully crispy thin ones with a variety of toppings.
A chief complaint of Valentino’s is that the desserts are below-par - at Borgo however they are regarded as the pinnacle of an enjoyable meal. A chocolate cake with a molten centre is distinctively un-Italian, but it’s just too good to pass over. Crème caramel, another old stalwart, is nicely done with a scoop of home-made ice-cream. The day’s special was given the rather nondescript name of “Grandma’s dessert” and looked a bit like a very messy tiramisu. However it was rich with layers of mascarpone, hazelnuts, chocolate and sponge and tasted like a sugar-lover’s dream.
The service is friendly and very efficient (on both occasions all our food arrived within an hour). If subtlety and wit are what you want, this is clearly not the place for you. Like most places dealing in old favourites, the range of flavours is necessarily limited; tomatoes are used liberally in many dishes - warming, but it doesn’t do anything for variety. Still, if you want a hearty meal at a reasonable price in unpretentious, cozy surroundings, then Borgo is a good choice. And a big plus - corkage is cheap, so bring your own plonk!
Borgo
789 Bukit Timah Road
Tel: 6466-7762
(Parking readily available at Guthrie House off Sixth Ave)