Cabbages and Condoms

Nov 14, 2006 11:27

Most people already know the story of this curious-sounding eatery. It’s the brainchild of the so-called Thai “Condom King”, the man who built a business empire from manufacturing condoms and has been instrumental in promoting safe sex, birth-control and AIDS education as part of his philanthropic outreach - the profits go towards AIDS prevention and other sex education programs. So one can have a good meal while doing one’s bit for charity.

The entrance is again off one of those dark soi, announced by a large rustic sign and a matching entrance pavilion with a thatched roof. A pathway through a lushly-planted garden lit with paper lanterns leads to what looks like a community centre done up in Bali-hai style with a gift shop and stalls selling hand-made jewellery. Beyond this is a large two-storey house with a large courtyard for dining - Cabbages and Condoms is on the ground floor. You will pass various curious displays, such as a mannequin with a suit made entirely of condoms, and a box by the door filled with free condoms divided into “republican size” and “democrat size”. Both are the same size, BTW. Instead of after-dinner mints, the waiter will give you a condom. So if you don’t know it by now, you’re supposed not to take anything here too seriously.

Cabbages and Condoms serves straightforward and unpretentious Thai cuisine. Even if the prices are much higher than what’s on the streets, the food’s quite serviceable (although from what I hear, the standard can vary greatly) and you can ease your social conscience as well. From memory, here’s what we ordered:

Spicy coconut-milk soup with seafood
Deep-fried vegetarian spring rolls
Crispy duck salad
Lamb massaman curry
Whole steamed sea-bass with spicy thai-style broth.

If this sounds like a lot for two people, I assure you - it was. The soup seemed a bit coconut heavy while the spicy factor seemed tamed for western palates. Spring rolls were ever-reliable, and the crispy duck salad - slices of roast duck that have been deep-fried and tossed through a spicy-sour thai salad - was good. The lamb massaman is not for the figure-conscious (think the layer of oil on top of a newly-opened jar of peanut butter), and the fish was nicely steamed. Purists will quibble about the touristy-ness of it all but it’s tasty fare nevertheless. Service is efficient but a bit impersonal. Given the consciously gimmicky nature of the establishment, it will come as no surprise that the only Thai faces you will see are the ones waiting on you.

So in summary - a good cause, hideous décor and perfectly adequate food. However, the food and overall experience seems to lack the joy and enthusiasm that makes for a truly great Thai meal. Incidentally, it’s not that much cheaper than the renowned and elegant Baan Khanita further down Sukhumvit.

Cabbages and Condoms
Sukhumvit Soi 12
Bangkok

travel, bangkok, restaurants

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