Cloaks and Costume basics
Some of you may have seen this post before. But this is the compilation of several posts.
When pulling together a death eater costume, don't limit your vision to what the movies offer. What you need to keep in mind is black, black, black.
What does every death eater require for a uniform?
1. A wand
2. A black cloak, with hood either attached or unattached
3. A silver mask
4. A dark mark
5. Dark colored shoes
What is optional to the uniform?
1. Black gloves
2. The shoes being boots.
It really doesn’t matter what your costume is under the cloak as Death Eaters have all sorts of occupations.
Death Eater is the simplest Harry Potter costume there is besides Muggle or what I call a Harry Potter Fan that wears jeans, a HP themed t shirt and a school scarf. Student costumes are more complicated than a death eater costume. You need a special school robe, sometime they have patches. A school uniform with an appropriate tie, scarf, socks, dark colored shoes, hat, and sometimes a sweater is much more exact and complicated.
School robes can be death eater robes, but the patch will give you away if you have one on your school robe.
Buying gloves at costume stores is expensive. Try to borrow a pair, or get them at the hardware store. If you have some fabric remnants you may want to try making your own.
Here is a great link with easy to follow steps on making gloves. I am making a pair for Professor Snape.
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_gloves.htm
Some of you have been asking for how to make a cloak. Email me and I will send you my research in a power point file.
My address is netmgmtgoddess "at" yahoo "dott" com
If you get a standard pattern from a sewing store, 99.95% of the time you will get the pattern for a 4 panel opera style cloak. These cloak styles require lining and are fitted to the shoulder. My research has an easier pattern, does not have as many seams, but requires more fabric, but maybe not considering a full circle cloak doesn't need lining and is therefore easier to make.
If you want an "all in one approach" or feel queasy about drafting patterns, there is a great robe/hood combination pattern. It is Mccalls 3789. I am making robe B, which is robe A with a hood in navy blue woven suede (polyester and on sale). This takes 11 yards of fabric for a large adult. My hubby will look kick ass.
Mccalls 3789 can be seen here:
http://www.davadesign.com/faireplay/13aff2e0.jpg
http://www.nathalies-naehkiste.de/shop/zeig/mc3789.jpg
You want the cloak to be easy to sew and WASHABLE.
For a semi-circular or full circle cloak you need something relatively lightweight as fabric such as:
Cotton twill
Cotton duck
Polyester gabardine
Broadcloth
even muslin but you will have to dye that.
Do not use thin, shiny, or slick feeling material like satin or suit lining if you are a novice. DO NOT USE any fabric that stretches. NO PANNE VELVET. You will be sorry if you attempt this with stretch fabric if you are a novice like me. If you are experienced with satin and stretch fabrics, go for it.
The width of material you need is based on the measurement from the base of your neck to your ankles. So I will mention *Safety Concerns*.
Cloaks that drag on the floor look lovely, but it's not fun to have folks step on it or yourself tripping over it. You need to measure from your neck to ankle. Once you hem the cloak, it should be about 1 inch above the ankle, and it will billow and flow.
If you are short, 45" fabric may work. I have a 57 inch drop, so 60 inches is my minimum but the fabric tolerance is always 57/60, .then I have to allow for a hem of some sort, so I get a mid calf cloak (I am pleased with finding 72 inch fabric. I need 7 yards to make a full circle cloak. I am using 100% poly table linen that is 72 inches!! It's cheaper than apparel fabric.)
For example, a full circle cloak with a 57 inch drop from neck to ankle requires 7 yards of 60 inch wide fabric. Wait for fabric sales. 7yd at 4.00/yd is 49 bucks. You will need thread, so add 3 bucks for that. This cloak cost 52 bucks compared to the 100 at most web sites.
A full circle cloak is easiest to make, but you need to self pattern it. I can send you a power point presentation I made on cloaks as a reference for myself. Most "pattern" cloaks are variations on semi circulars or 4 panel tailored "opera" cloaks. Opera cloaks are lined, and hence heavier, and require more cuts and seams. You don't want to line a big full circle cloak.
There is a difference in cloak patterns- to see the lay of several cloaks, check out twin roses designs on the net.
If that is too much work for you, the EASIEST cloak to make is a "rectangle". There are instructions on how to make that on the net. But I never bothered referencing them. Search google using "free cloak patterns"
Saberbabe has this added hint:
For a little added "swoop" to the cloak, you can sew into the hem some small (SMALL!) lead fishing weights. Not too many, as it will weigh the cloak down too much. You want just enough to give a good "swirl" when you turn around. The amount of lead weights depend on the weight of the fabric itself. More if you're using a lightweight, less if you're using heavyweight.
Add in the weights *after* you have finished the cloak and you can gauge how much you'll need (or not need at all). Run them inside the hem and tack them into place.
When pulling together a death eater costume, don't limit your vision to what the movies offer. What you need to keep in mind is black, black, black.
What does every death eater require for a uniform?
1. A wand
2. A black cloak, with hood either attached or unattached
3. A silver mask
4. A dark mark
5. Dark colored shoes
What is optional to the uniform?
1. Black gloves
2. The shoes being boots.
It really doesn’t matter what your costume is under the cloak as Death Eaters have all sorts of occupations.
Death Eater is the simplest Harry Potter costume there is besides Muggle or what I call a Harry Potter Fan that wears jeans, a HP themed t shirt and a school scarf. Student costumes are more complicated than a death eater costume. You need a special school robe, sometime they have patches. A school uniform with an appropriate tie, scarf, socks, dark colored shoes, hat, and sometimes a sweater is much more exact and complicated.
School robes can be death eater robes, but the patch will give you away if you have one on your school robe.
Buying gloves at costume stores is expensive. Try to borrow a pair, or get them at the hardware store. If you have some fabric remnants you may want to try making your own.
Here is a great link with easy to follow steps on making gloves. I am making a pair for Professor Snape.
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_gloves.htm
Some of you have been asking for how to make a cloak. Email me and I will send you my research in a power point file.
My address is netmgmtgoddess "at" yahoo "dott" com
If you get a standard pattern from a sewing store, 99.95% of the time you will get the pattern for a 4 panel opera style cloak. These cloak styles require lining and are fitted to the shoulder. My research has an easier pattern, does not have as many seams, but requires more fabric, but maybe not considering a full circle cloak doesn't need lining and is therefore easier to make.
If you want an "all in one approach" or feel queasy about drafting patterns, there is a great robe/hood combination pattern. It is Mccalls 3789. I am making robe B, which is robe A with a hood in navy blue woven suede (polyester and on sale). This takes 11 yards of fabric for a large adult. My hubby will look kick ass.
Mccalls 3789 can be seen here:
http://www.davadesign.com/faireplay/13aff2e0.jpg
http://www.nathalies-naehkiste.de/shop/zeig/mc3789.jpg
You want the cloak to be easy to sew and WASHABLE.
For a semi-circular or full circle cloak you need something relatively lightweight as fabric such as:
Cotton twill
Cotton duck
Polyester gabardine
Broadcloth
even muslin but you will have to dye that.
Do not use thin, shiny, or slick feeling material like satin or suit lining if you are a novice. DO NOT USE any fabric that stretches. NO PANNE VELVET. You will be sorry if you attempt this with stretch fabric if you are a novice like me. If you are experienced with satin and stretch fabrics, go for it.
The width of material you need is based on the measurement from the base of your neck to your ankles. So I will mention *Safety Concerns*.
Cloaks that drag on the floor look lovely, but it's not fun to have folks step on it or yourself tripping over it. You need to measure from your neck to ankle. Once you hem the cloak, it should be about 1 inch above the ankle, and it will billow and flow.
If you are short, 45" fabric may work. I have a 57 inch drop, so 60 inches is my minimum but the fabric tolerance is always 57/60, .then I have to allow for a hem of some sort, so I get a mid calf cloak (I am pleased with finding 72 inch fabric. I need 7 yards to make a full circle cloak. I am using 100% poly table linen that is 72 inches!! It's cheaper than apparel fabric.)
For example, a full circle cloak with a 57 inch drop from neck to ankle requires 7 yards of 60 inch wide fabric. Wait for fabric sales. 7yd at 4.00/yd is 49 bucks. You will need thread, so add 3 bucks for that. This cloak cost 52 bucks compared to the 100 at most web sites.
A full circle cloak is easiest to make, but you need to self pattern it. I can send you a power point presentation I made on cloaks as a reference for myself. Most "pattern" cloaks are variations on semi circulars or 4 panel tailored "opera" cloaks. Opera cloaks are lined, and hence heavier, and require more cuts and seams. You don't want to line a big full circle cloak.
There is a difference in cloak patterns- to see the lay of several cloaks, check out twin roses designs on the net.
If that is too much work for you, the EASIEST cloak to make is a "rectangle". There are instructions on how to make that on the net. But I never bothered referencing them. Search google using "free cloak patterns"
Saberbabe has this added hint:
For a little added "swoop" to the cloak, you can sew into the hem some small (SMALL!) lead fishing weights. Not too many, as it will weigh the cloak down too much. You want just enough to give a good "swirl" when you turn around. The amount of lead weights depend on the weight of the fabric itself. More if you're using a lightweight, less if you're using heavyweight.
Add in the weights *after* you have finished the cloak and you can gauge how much you'll need (or not need at all). Run them inside the hem and tack them into place.