back in black
Bombay (or Mumbai, as they say) is a really cool city. There is actually a little diversity downtown with the tourists, an interesting blend of Indian and British architecture, and a gorgeous skyline set across the sea, reminiscent of New York or San Francisco. There is the liveliness and energy of a city with too many people to ever really sleep. All in all, it feels much more vibrant than Madras or most other places I have been to in India.
The sheer number of people, though, is overwhelming. The crowds tend to be suffocating, both in the streets and in the shops. And there is, as before, the tragic composition of slums beside the mansions. They are the destitute the wealthy struggle to ignore, regarded more as an eyesore than as brothers and sisters. The city itself seems trapped in an avalanche of forward momentum against backwards pillars. There are towering modern condominiums, brand new buildings that are the backends for western IT companies, a huge young, educated, and progressive population. But with so many to compete against, divisions are amplified, especially by a politics and culture still set in old factions. There are Marahtis and Gujaratis and Tamilians. There are endorsements and threats, scapegoats and victims. But it doesn't seem, so much, that there are ever just Indians, or ever just people.
But so it goes, I guess. Transformation doesn't happen overnight. But it is, truly, something to behold, something I think you have to see to really appreciate.
On to the updates: the flight was mostly smooth, although one elderly lady had a medical emergency just three rows in front of us from London to Bombay. They had to give her oxygen, and the panic in the eyes of the stewardesses and doctors on board were enough to scare the hell out of me. She was ok, but damn it's amazing how quickly fragility can sneak up on you when you least expect it. In a time like that, when I felt so helpless, I prayed. I don't know if I believed it or not. I don't know if it matters.
Jet Airways lost my bag, but then they found it. Could have been worse. Clothes are appreciated.
Family always makes me smile. These are some really great people over here.
And I got my first news from grad schools. Accepted to Michigan, with guaranteed 5 years of financial support. One down, so far, so good. Deep breaths.
The weather is gorgeous. Off to Cochin in a couple days; will report when I have a chance.
I miss you.
The sheer number of people, though, is overwhelming. The crowds tend to be suffocating, both in the streets and in the shops. And there is, as before, the tragic composition of slums beside the mansions. They are the destitute the wealthy struggle to ignore, regarded more as an eyesore than as brothers and sisters. The city itself seems trapped in an avalanche of forward momentum against backwards pillars. There are towering modern condominiums, brand new buildings that are the backends for western IT companies, a huge young, educated, and progressive population. But with so many to compete against, divisions are amplified, especially by a politics and culture still set in old factions. There are Marahtis and Gujaratis and Tamilians. There are endorsements and threats, scapegoats and victims. But it doesn't seem, so much, that there are ever just Indians, or ever just people.
But so it goes, I guess. Transformation doesn't happen overnight. But it is, truly, something to behold, something I think you have to see to really appreciate.
On to the updates: the flight was mostly smooth, although one elderly lady had a medical emergency just three rows in front of us from London to Bombay. They had to give her oxygen, and the panic in the eyes of the stewardesses and doctors on board were enough to scare the hell out of me. She was ok, but damn it's amazing how quickly fragility can sneak up on you when you least expect it. In a time like that, when I felt so helpless, I prayed. I don't know if I believed it or not. I don't know if it matters.
Jet Airways lost my bag, but then they found it. Could have been worse. Clothes are appreciated.
Family always makes me smile. These are some really great people over here.
And I got my first news from grad schools. Accepted to Michigan, with guaranteed 5 years of financial support. One down, so far, so good. Deep breaths.
The weather is gorgeous. Off to Cochin in a couple days; will report when I have a chance.
I miss you.