Spago-a-Go-Go
With so many restaurants I have yet to dine at, why would I want to revisit one? I mean, aside from it being good? To learn about any changes that have been made since my last visit -- a new concept, a new executive chef, or a new locations. That last one is why I had dinner at Spago, a restaurant that's not hurting for business, owned by a celebrity chef who isn't hurting for business.
I'm familiar with the Spago brand, reknowned for smoked salmon pizza, veal wienerschnitzel, and kaiserschmarren dessert. I've been to the famed location in Beverly Hills and the local incarnation at Caesar's Palace. That one introduced Las Vegas to the celebrity chef in 1992, and I had the pleasure of meeting Wolfgang Puck at its 20th anniversary dinner. Leases being leases, that one expired, and now Spago is at the Bellagio, in the spot where Todd English's Olives provided a better view than a meal. . While the old patio made for great people watching at the Forum Shops, now the verandah gives one a great view of the famous dancing fountans, perfect for the romantic-minded (in fact, the verandah was occupied by wedding party on this night).
According to my server, the now-septugenarian Puck still visits once a month, remaining hands-on and very personable, while other celebrity chefs, with or without busy schedules or massive empires to run, might simply slap their name on a property and collect the cash. This keeps Spago at the top of its game.
I started with the big-eye tuna tartare. This preparation had a yuzu-ponzu dressing, atop pureed avocado, to be spread on rice crackers dusted with powdered nori. The light freshness the East-meets-West combination of ingredients -- this is quintessential California cuisine.
My entree was the grilled rack of Colorado lamb. Medium-rare by my request, accompanied by chimichurri (which had me thinking of "Chim Chim Cher-ee" from "Mary Poppins" -- thank you, Dick Van Dyke) and a ragout of multiple beans (which had me thinking about the Witch singing about her beans in "Into the Woods" -- thank you, Bernadette Peters). Up there in price, but also in quality.
And a very fun dessert called Spiked Lemon. Using chiffon cake filled with yuzu cream, with citrus mousse on the outside, this Lisa Simpson lookalike was presented whole, then expertly split in half by my server. Alternately soft and crunchy, sour in flavor and sweet in appearance, and garnished with gold flakes, this is the sort of dessert befitting a culinary legend.
When I met Puck at Spago's 20th anniversary special, I told him I was looking forward to the next twenty. Moving across Flamingo Road should not matter. You might spend quite a bit, but you won't be disappointed.
I'm familiar with the Spago brand, reknowned for smoked salmon pizza, veal wienerschnitzel, and kaiserschmarren dessert. I've been to the famed location in Beverly Hills and the local incarnation at Caesar's Palace. That one introduced Las Vegas to the celebrity chef in 1992, and I had the pleasure of meeting Wolfgang Puck at its 20th anniversary dinner. Leases being leases, that one expired, and now Spago is at the Bellagio, in the spot where Todd English's Olives provided a better view than a meal. . While the old patio made for great people watching at the Forum Shops, now the verandah gives one a great view of the famous dancing fountans, perfect for the romantic-minded (in fact, the verandah was occupied by wedding party on this night).
According to my server, the now-septugenarian Puck still visits once a month, remaining hands-on and very personable, while other celebrity chefs, with or without busy schedules or massive empires to run, might simply slap their name on a property and collect the cash. This keeps Spago at the top of its game.
I started with the big-eye tuna tartare. This preparation had a yuzu-ponzu dressing, atop pureed avocado, to be spread on rice crackers dusted with powdered nori. The light freshness the East-meets-West combination of ingredients -- this is quintessential California cuisine.
My entree was the grilled rack of Colorado lamb. Medium-rare by my request, accompanied by chimichurri (which had me thinking of "Chim Chim Cher-ee" from "Mary Poppins" -- thank you, Dick Van Dyke) and a ragout of multiple beans (which had me thinking about the Witch singing about her beans in "Into the Woods" -- thank you, Bernadette Peters). Up there in price, but also in quality.
And a very fun dessert called Spiked Lemon. Using chiffon cake filled with yuzu cream, with citrus mousse on the outside, this Lisa Simpson lookalike was presented whole, then expertly split in half by my server. Alternately soft and crunchy, sour in flavor and sweet in appearance, and garnished with gold flakes, this is the sort of dessert befitting a culinary legend.
When I met Puck at Spago's 20th anniversary special, I told him I was looking forward to the next twenty. Moving across Flamingo Road should not matter. You might spend quite a bit, but you won't be disappointed.