Дневники Фреда Гайсберга

Apr 23, 2014 00:36

Предуведомление.
Дедушка не сразу решился дать эти дневниковые записи в своем журнале. Но желание познакомить с нерядовым событием в жизни Казани победило. Дедушка надеется на понимание татарских камрадов и их снисходительность.
Складывал свои карточки на Воскресенскую. Пришла очередь номеров "Франция". Помимо всего прочего именно в них были сделаны первые в мире записи татарской народной музыки. Об этом написал в своем дневнике Фред Гайсберг. Дедушка уверен на 146 %, что этот факт никак не будет отражен в летописях культуры. И уж все 292 %, что татарский перевод казанских кусков дневника никогда не увидит света в местных казенных СМИ. Почему? Судите сами.



Посмотреть на Яндекс.Фотках

25 June 1901[Kazan]
We arrived at the port of Kazan at 8 o’c a.m. Kazan is situated about 5 miles from the river. The drive of an hour through a low, flat country. These flats are covered with lumber rafts, probably floated down the river when it is high, then settled when the river drops. Kazan is on high ground rising rather abruptly from the flats, and is hence a naturally fortified city. As we approach it the sight is very fine. We stopped at our agent[s] Malacapff, who had been commissioned to secure two rooms for us. He took us around to the Hotel de France where I rigged my outfit, and Old Malacapff chased off out to get Tartar artists. The first he brought in was a petrified, yellow - skinned accordeon player with a musty smell to him. Very likely did his best but his music haunts me still. We asked him would he stop if we paid him 5 R. and bring in some one who could sing. He agreed. Next came two vile-smelling creatures with little squeezed up eyes, broad fat faces. Their love for hair made them tack on their heads a variety of greasy mildewed strands of false hair until it reached their knees. Their singing would bring tears to your eyes. The song would be a rhythm of about 8 bars, repeated over and over again, to the accompaniment of 5th in the bass (accordeon) organpoint fashion. We asked the accordeon player if that was the best he could do, and he said it was. He said Tartars have no artists or places of amusements, and he had to recruit these people from disreputable resorts. After they left, a priest came in and recited verses from the Coran (or better yet, sang).
A drive in the evening showed us what a considerable town Kazan was. The Russian part especially contains handsome buildings and churches . Streets are orderly, and there are plenty of parks. But the Tartar section is beyond doubt the dirtiest, filthiest, vile-smelling place I have ever come across. All the Tartars have that peculiar Oriental smell about them that seems to asphyxiate you. I always felt faint when near them. They are quite Oriental in appearance. Small eyes;expressionless immobile features. The women of the better clans are never seen. Strict seclusion i s enforced, and should they go out it is always closely veiled. The custom is a laudable one if all women were as ugly as the commoner class we saw.
We had dinner in the garden, a resort similar to the Acquarium of Moscow. We went in hopes to find some Tartar talent, but only Russians were here and only Russians catered to. Only one or two Tartars were even to be seen among this great crowd. We did however make the acquaintance of some beautiful Russian girls. One was a pure type of Russian blonde, and theother of gypsy-type, dark. It cost me about $25 for their society. It cost Labell the same. I must say there were some fine-looking women here, but all were Russians.

Wednesday, 26 June 1901[Kazan]
Our first people were some Tartar students with their master. They sang us some songs. Then two more women. Later another man223. The different songs these people sang sounded every one like the other. In the afternoon we went to a Tartar shop to buy some slippers which they are adepts in making and designing.
We pass a number of interesting characters and shops-everything Eastern in character and colour. We had a lively time bargaining with the shop-keeper and in consequence of which we got things one third cheaper.
On this street was a Mohammedan mosque. I n returning to the hotel we passed the Kazan River and took a swim.
That evening Labell had supper with the agent [=Malacapff] and I devoted my time to packing. After finishing this job I took a furman [?] and drove around the town, then to the Garden where I had supper and a short chat with my Gypsy beauty. I met Labell at the hotel and we started out in company with our accordeon friend to a Tartar wine house, where I lost all of the little respect I ever had for them filth and smell- no name. Before charging the Russians with being dirty, one must get his standard of filth fixed by visiting this joint. They crowd about 8 men and 8 women in an unventilated box of a room - in the centre a table with a kerosene lamp. The harmonica would start up one of the merry monotone dirges, then the crowd would join in and continue for half an hour with the most solemn expressions on their stony faces. Well we saw all we could and got out as quick as possible. I wanted to take a photo of two girls but they refused saying, “God would be displeased”. A rouble induced them to forget Allah.
These girls instinctively cover their faces when a man looks at them.
We tried to get them to take off the mantlein singing in the machine, but without it they were as embarrassed as young school girls.

Thursday, 27 June 1901 [Kazan→by boat to Nizhni Novgorod]
We [arose] early and, settling up our hotel, we drove to the Port and got aboard our steamer. This proved a better boat than the one we made our down - journey in. A piano on board helped me to pass away time. The dayis fine. Navigation is very uncertain as the sand-bars shift so continually, and a man is always stationed in the bow of the boat. He has a long pole with which he sounds the depth, and all during the night you can hear him calling out "vocim”, "davit", meaning 8, 9.

На фотке Фред Гайсберг и Синклер Дерби в "сторублевых шубах" в Петербурге.

грамзапись, музыка народная, татаре, казань

Up