New York Fashion Week: Fall 2009 RTW: #1-6
6. Max Azria
Futurism meets Victorianism meets Medievalism. Structured futuristic shapes and scandalous but strong sheers were one strain. Tons of Victorian lace softened the look with the inevitable romance that lace brings (and leads me to swoon). Skillful drapery was exhibited in a number of dresses, usually layered over turtlenecks medieval style and came in a number of fabrics - jersey, chiffon, and velvet. It was a very seductive collection particularly if you have a gothic sense of romance. It was a nice counter to the more overt sexuality of the Balmain imitators.
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5. Ralph Lauren
At first I was really put-off by this collection. It was so uppercrust America - ski lodges, equestrians, the snobby set that has debutante balls and brings fancy gowns wherever they go - no matter how "in nature" they are, DAR ladies, Gossip Girls, etc.....But it is so pretty. Rich velvet, satin, chiffon come mostly in pearlescent colours or rich woody shades. The exquisite details eventually charmed me. And what can I say? I've always deeply regretted the fact that I never got to have horse riding lessons.
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4. Matthew Williamson.
I had never really gotten Matthew Williamson - way too bright particularly when the colour comes in busy patters. It was all too loud for my taste. But this time, the colours were darker, deeper, mellower. It was definitely still a vibrant colourful collection full of bold graphic prints - but not obnoxiously so. I thought the colours were beautiful, the cuts flattering, and even the neon fur had a certain appeal. Before this I never would have considered Williamson for my list, but I feel he has grown as a designer and scored a real hit.
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3.Phi
Badass. Simply badass. Leather, corseting, zippers, sharp, sleek silhouettes....Badass.
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2. Proenza Schouler
I've been a fan of the Proenza Schouler boys, but man did I hate their last collection. Thankfully they did not do the 80s again this year. Instead of regurgitating old ideas as many do, this collection was one of unique ideas that are cool urban and distinct from the pack. Tough constructed outerwear in twill and tweed gave way to more feminine dresses. There was a definite air of deconstruction (although thankfully, the shapes themselves were flattering and close to the body. The conclusion was a sort of deteriorated and brightly colored lace over sheer black dresses that were crazy, sexy, cool (forgive my 90s-child-ness).
1. Rodarte
For me, Rodarte is always what I look forward too. The Mulleavy Sisters are the true artists of New York Fashion Week. This collection had an organic feel, as scraps of marbleized fabrics and stones came together in color schemes of wind, water, and the black and orange of burning coals and magma. Brought together in a cohesive collection, a defined aesthetic - but every garment unique, as if inspired by true artistic genius. I was reminded of modern art works - specifically the collage work of cubists, merged with the musical harmonic sense of the Orphism movement. While at first I was ambivalent about the jackets that burst about the otherwise closely cut garments, I grew to love their wild feel. It was curious how the collection had this organic feel despite the beautiful, ethereal shimmering of colour that fit well with the geological inspiration that seemed to be on everyone's mind. Some pieces were pieces, others dark and moody, others violent and almost sinister....but all of them true works of art that nevertheless look quite easy to wear.
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