The Month that was Fashion Week: Paris #11-15
And finally we arrive in Paris. Paris fashion week was by far my favorite, even if it did include some of the biggest dissapointments. There was an utterly atrocious and tacky wild-west themed Hermes collection, as well as weak showings from Givenchy (who was thankfully still good enough to make this list), Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, John Galliano, Elie Saab, and - most painfully - Valentino. Although, if I were to make a list of all the shows I still considered to be good and worthy of a list, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, and Valentino would be on it. Really, it was tough for me to keep this list to 15, and I really only did so for time's sake, because Paris Fashion Week, in my opinion, surpasses all others in art and style. If I were to make a longer list, here is what would have been on it, should you wish to look for yourself. In alphabetical order:
Akris
Alexandra Valerie Hash
Andrew Gn
Antonio Berardi
Jean-Paul Gaultier
John Galliano
Valentino
Wunderkind
I will be presenting my list in segments of 5. So without further ado, #10-15.
15.Giambattista Valli
This collection is full of pieces using modern architecture and shapes, but the overall aesthetic is undeniably retro with an explosion of feminine fantasy that redeems the term "frou frou." Certainly the fluff is at times applied poorly - the application of it only to the front of one dress is off-puttingly reminiscent of that most maligned patch of hair that woman go to pains to diminish or remove. The final gowns at first seemed to be an excessive explosion of fluff, but I must admit it moves well, like a floaty dream...it is kind of fun. Now that I have dealt with those, much of the collection is truly chic - dare I say many pieces are what a modern-day Audrey hepburn would wear? the exaggerated bells, the wonderful bodices, the lace, the beautiful embroidery and the sleek pieces that would be simple if not for the great embellishments and structure. So he may be a bit stuck in the past, I personally don't consider that a bad thing. Beautiful.
Complete Collection
14.Louis Vuitton
From feminine excess to fierce and wild excess. At it's best the collection is a powerful feminist expression with structured jackets, bold colors, shiny embellished skirts, and a profusion of accessories that include layers of large bangles. The look draws from the wildest of Paris gashion history: we have the art deco necklaces, the primitive influences that fascinated modern artists (many of the shoes actually have tribal masks), flapper fringe, and 40s silhouettes (well, with the change to short flippy skirts), with a jazzy Josephine Baker flair. The sum is an explosive look of textures and prints-metallics and sequins - tamed by fabulous obi-belts and firm,structured jackets. Every look is an exploration of the battle between chaos and order, finding a way to be both strong and defiant. "Glam Warrior Chic" is not for everyone - but for the fearless few, this collection is win. I would even go for the fabulous dark-metallic bags, if not for my aversion to monogrammed label-whoring. Just please, don't go for that awful hair.
Complete Collection
13. Givenchy
I was incredibly disappointed in this collection, especially because so much of it *is* up to standard. The first looks to come down the runway were Givenchy in it's finest form. tight, expertly tailored, powerful black suits and dresses with an erotic touch of bondage underneath that can be described by no other word than fierce. Then there was an interesting branching out into lemon and chiffon designs and peak-a-boo lace under tough sheaths. Slowly, a wild west theme developed. At first the bolero jewelry, jacket shapes, and boots were a wonderfully modern take....but then came the denim and chaps. These looks were positively revolting in my opinion and if they didn't exist this collection would be ranked much higher. Fortunately the bad ass female looks returned, with the western influences turning into sparkly sharp stud embellishments and the good sheriff nude caped ensembles. The collection was mostly the powerful and dangerous sexiness with a fetishistic tough of Alice bow headbands that were freed from their usually cute association and I hope will become something all powerful women feel free to wear.
Complete Collection
12. Stella McCartney
Nude colours have been a big trend for Spring 09, but never have they been so flattering - fresh and with a soft glow. The shiny blue fabric was a perfect complement, water for the sand. A cool solidity was added by a cool range from gray to iron to black. There was a pleasant balance between easy laid back comfort and body conscious looks that manage to stay sexy without a hint of obscenity. Until this collection, I had never been a big fan of jumpsuits, rompers, or oversized blazers, but Stella executes them so perfectly, so - even the sparkly bodysuits are made to look carefree and wearable by keeping them light and paired with one of her blazers. Finally effortless cool blazers that don't hide the body! The only time her laid-back approach caused me to frown was in the off-the-shoulder looks that just makes boobs look lumpy. But to compensate are well sculptured dresses that look deceptively simple, a blue bubble dress that moves like water to reveal the form rather than being unflattering, stunning blush nude crocheted looks, and sparkly disk dresses that reveal so much skin without taking anything away from the image of the Stella woman: smart, laid-back, and cool.
Complete Collection
11.Lanvin
Albert Elbaz of Lanvin is a wonderful human being. He is an adorable rotund man who simply loves women - not in the sleazy man-whore way, but almost reverent for the variety of character, personality, intelligence, strengths, style, and, of course, beauty in woman. You can tell by the clothes he designs: luxurious fabrics, great modern shapes, volume that can be either bold, romantic, or voluptuous depending on the women who wear them. I have to admit, that the stills struck me as being unflattering, but viewing the video of the runway convinced me of the excellent design - especially knowing that all that draping was achieved without any corseting for easy and comfortable wear! Also, examine the styles, they are designed not for the models, but for real women, to accommodate the curves of women. I am reluctant to actually post the stills because they fail to do justice and the flower appliqués appear tacky rather than chic as they would in life, but you can at least get a sense of the brilliant shaping, draping, and color usage. Hell even those unusual exaggerated rouched shoulders have wooed me...no reason to fear the unfamiliar. Lastly, let me stress how luscious this collection is, and how the simple elegance of the fabrics is livened up by beautiful and unique jewelry that sparkles...and the shoes that are like pieces of jewelry as well. Other Lanvin collections have been better, but this is still an ultra stylish collection that is a gift to women.
Complete Collection
Akris
Alexandra Valerie Hash
Andrew Gn
Antonio Berardi
Jean-Paul Gaultier
John Galliano
Valentino
Wunderkind
I will be presenting my list in segments of 5. So without further ado, #10-15.
15.Giambattista Valli
This collection is full of pieces using modern architecture and shapes, but the overall aesthetic is undeniably retro with an explosion of feminine fantasy that redeems the term "frou frou." Certainly the fluff is at times applied poorly - the application of it only to the front of one dress is off-puttingly reminiscent of that most maligned patch of hair that woman go to pains to diminish or remove. The final gowns at first seemed to be an excessive explosion of fluff, but I must admit it moves well, like a floaty dream...it is kind of fun. Now that I have dealt with those, much of the collection is truly chic - dare I say many pieces are what a modern-day Audrey hepburn would wear? the exaggerated bells, the wonderful bodices, the lace, the beautiful embroidery and the sleek pieces that would be simple if not for the great embellishments and structure. So he may be a bit stuck in the past, I personally don't consider that a bad thing. Beautiful.
Complete Collection
14.Louis Vuitton
From feminine excess to fierce and wild excess. At it's best the collection is a powerful feminist expression with structured jackets, bold colors, shiny embellished skirts, and a profusion of accessories that include layers of large bangles. The look draws from the wildest of Paris gashion history: we have the art deco necklaces, the primitive influences that fascinated modern artists (many of the shoes actually have tribal masks), flapper fringe, and 40s silhouettes (well, with the change to short flippy skirts), with a jazzy Josephine Baker flair. The sum is an explosive look of textures and prints-metallics and sequins - tamed by fabulous obi-belts and firm,structured jackets. Every look is an exploration of the battle between chaos and order, finding a way to be both strong and defiant. "Glam Warrior Chic" is not for everyone - but for the fearless few, this collection is win. I would even go for the fabulous dark-metallic bags, if not for my aversion to monogrammed label-whoring. Just please, don't go for that awful hair.
Complete Collection
13. Givenchy
I was incredibly disappointed in this collection, especially because so much of it *is* up to standard. The first looks to come down the runway were Givenchy in it's finest form. tight, expertly tailored, powerful black suits and dresses with an erotic touch of bondage underneath that can be described by no other word than fierce. Then there was an interesting branching out into lemon and chiffon designs and peak-a-boo lace under tough sheaths. Slowly, a wild west theme developed. At first the bolero jewelry, jacket shapes, and boots were a wonderfully modern take....but then came the denim and chaps. These looks were positively revolting in my opinion and if they didn't exist this collection would be ranked much higher. Fortunately the bad ass female looks returned, with the western influences turning into sparkly sharp stud embellishments and the good sheriff nude caped ensembles. The collection was mostly the powerful and dangerous sexiness with a fetishistic tough of Alice bow headbands that were freed from their usually cute association and I hope will become something all powerful women feel free to wear.
Complete Collection
12. Stella McCartney
Nude colours have been a big trend for Spring 09, but never have they been so flattering - fresh and with a soft glow. The shiny blue fabric was a perfect complement, water for the sand. A cool solidity was added by a cool range from gray to iron to black. There was a pleasant balance between easy laid back comfort and body conscious looks that manage to stay sexy without a hint of obscenity. Until this collection, I had never been a big fan of jumpsuits, rompers, or oversized blazers, but Stella executes them so perfectly, so - even the sparkly bodysuits are made to look carefree and wearable by keeping them light and paired with one of her blazers. Finally effortless cool blazers that don't hide the body! The only time her laid-back approach caused me to frown was in the off-the-shoulder looks that just makes boobs look lumpy. But to compensate are well sculptured dresses that look deceptively simple, a blue bubble dress that moves like water to reveal the form rather than being unflattering, stunning blush nude crocheted looks, and sparkly disk dresses that reveal so much skin without taking anything away from the image of the Stella woman: smart, laid-back, and cool.
Complete Collection
11.Lanvin
Albert Elbaz of Lanvin is a wonderful human being. He is an adorable rotund man who simply loves women - not in the sleazy man-whore way, but almost reverent for the variety of character, personality, intelligence, strengths, style, and, of course, beauty in woman. You can tell by the clothes he designs: luxurious fabrics, great modern shapes, volume that can be either bold, romantic, or voluptuous depending on the women who wear them. I have to admit, that the stills struck me as being unflattering, but viewing the video of the runway convinced me of the excellent design - especially knowing that all that draping was achieved without any corseting for easy and comfortable wear! Also, examine the styles, they are designed not for the models, but for real women, to accommodate the curves of women. I am reluctant to actually post the stills because they fail to do justice and the flower appliqués appear tacky rather than chic as they would in life, but you can at least get a sense of the brilliant shaping, draping, and color usage. Hell even those unusual exaggerated rouched shoulders have wooed me...no reason to fear the unfamiliar. Lastly, let me stress how luscious this collection is, and how the simple elegance of the fabrics is livened up by beautiful and unique jewelry that sparkles...and the shoes that are like pieces of jewelry as well. Other Lanvin collections have been better, but this is still an ultra stylish collection that is a gift to women.
Complete Collection