МК - мокуме гане с поталью
Потрясающие работы Анны Анпилоговой
On были сделаны по этому МК от Kris Richards, оригинал на http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/. Оооо, какой эффект! Буду пробовать!
Materials
- 6 oz. (usually 3 pkgs.) of transparent polymer clay (Sculpey III, Promat, Premo!Sculpey, CFC, or FIMO art transparent)
- 2-3 sheets of gold or silver composition gold leafing: (Old World Art brand, or Magic Leaf brand, DO NOT be confused by the mylar-backed foil... it is NOT the same thing as the very thin sheets of leafing!)
- a walnut-sized peice of colored clay; (your choice of colors: above example was done using purple)
Steps
Divide the transparent clay into 6 equal amounts, (IT IS EASIEST JUST TO CUT EACH PIECE IN HALF)...and condition it by kneading or running it through the pasta machine. Set ONE of the 6 pieces aside for later use.
Condition the colored clay, and roll it into a snake. Divide it into six UN-equal pieces. (Be sure the pieces graduate in size from a very tiny amount to large.) Set the sixth (largest) piece aside for later use.
Take the tiniest piece of the colored clay, and mix it with the first equal part of transparent until you get a very light purple. Continue this method of mixing with each of the graduated sizes of colored clay you cut in step 2, until you've combined them with each of the transparent pieces. You should end-up with five graduated colors of purple, ranging from very light, to medium to darker, and then darkest.
Flatten each of the remaining five pieces (remember? you set the largest, lightest-colored piece aside!) of the mixed colors into even sheets using the pasta machine. Each sheet needs to be very thin, if you can roll it through on setting five or six, all the better! TIP: roll the clay on setting four, sandwich the clay sheet between two sheets of waxed DELI wrap (NOT waxed paper, it will stick!) and roll through the pasta machine on setting five, then six. Peel the paper off the clay. Trim all the sheets to make rectangles of identical size.
Very carefully align the darkest-colored sheet of clay to edges the leafing, and gently lay the sheet of clay onto the leafing. This sheet will be the bottom of the Mokume "stack". Repeat each layer, sandwiching the gold leafing between each sheet of clay...(clay-leaf, clay-leaf, clay-leaf, etc.) End with the lightest sheet of clay on top. DO NOT add a sheet of leafing to the top of the clay. The end result should be clay on top, clay on bottom, with leafing in-between all layers.
Form different-sized colored and transparent balls of clay left over from trimming, and from steps one and two. Press these firmly into the bottom, darkest-colored slab of the stack of clay. What you want to achieve here is a miniature topographic landscape...hills, valleys, small mountains, etc.
Firmly adhere the entire Mokume Gane loaf of clay to your work surface. If your work surface is not sticky, find a smooth clean sheet of glass, plexiglass, or other inert substance (NOT WOOD!) to work on. Using the tissue blade, carefully slice ultra-thin sheets of clay from the top of the Mokume loaf.
Use these resulting small pieces of Mokume bits to adorn anything you'd like. I would suggest using a light-colored translucent mix for the base of your piece. (on the pieces shown here, I used Promat Gold for the base.) Some ideas for the slices: earrings, pins and beads, tool handles, tissue-blade covers, whatever your art desires! (click here to see mokume tool handles.) The resulting loaf, after being sliced into, reveals gorgeous layers of striated claywith leafing in subtle shaded colors.
Once you've constructed your piece of finished artwork using the Mokume slices and the loaf, bake at the manufacturer's recommended temperature for at least 1/2 hour. Remove promptly and allow to cool.
Once the Mokume piece is cooled, gently sand underwater with the 600-grit automotive wet-dry sandpaper until smooth to the touch. Polish with a soft cloth (old clean baby diapers are great for this!) or use a buffing wheel and muslin buff to impart a very high gloss. Buffing brings-out the depth and dimension of the translucent clay, allowing the colors and the leafing to show through to the bottom-most layer of clay!
On были сделаны по этому МК от Kris Richards, оригинал на http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/. Оооо, какой эффект! Буду пробовать!
Materials
- 6 oz. (usually 3 pkgs.) of transparent polymer clay (Sculpey III, Promat, Premo!Sculpey, CFC, or FIMO art transparent)
- 2-3 sheets of gold or silver composition gold leafing: (Old World Art brand, or Magic Leaf brand, DO NOT be confused by the mylar-backed foil... it is NOT the same thing as the very thin sheets of leafing!)
- a walnut-sized peice of colored clay; (your choice of colors: above example was done using purple)
Steps
Divide the transparent clay into 6 equal amounts, (IT IS EASIEST JUST TO CUT EACH PIECE IN HALF)...and condition it by kneading or running it through the pasta machine. Set ONE of the 6 pieces aside for later use.
Condition the colored clay, and roll it into a snake. Divide it into six UN-equal pieces. (Be sure the pieces graduate in size from a very tiny amount to large.) Set the sixth (largest) piece aside for later use.
Take the tiniest piece of the colored clay, and mix it with the first equal part of transparent until you get a very light purple. Continue this method of mixing with each of the graduated sizes of colored clay you cut in step 2, until you've combined them with each of the transparent pieces. You should end-up with five graduated colors of purple, ranging from very light, to medium to darker, and then darkest.
Flatten each of the remaining five pieces (remember? you set the largest, lightest-colored piece aside!) of the mixed colors into even sheets using the pasta machine. Each sheet needs to be very thin, if you can roll it through on setting five or six, all the better! TIP: roll the clay on setting four, sandwich the clay sheet between two sheets of waxed DELI wrap (NOT waxed paper, it will stick!) and roll through the pasta machine on setting five, then six. Peel the paper off the clay. Trim all the sheets to make rectangles of identical size.
Very carefully align the darkest-colored sheet of clay to edges the leafing, and gently lay the sheet of clay onto the leafing. This sheet will be the bottom of the Mokume "stack". Repeat each layer, sandwiching the gold leafing between each sheet of clay...(clay-leaf, clay-leaf, clay-leaf, etc.) End with the lightest sheet of clay on top. DO NOT add a sheet of leafing to the top of the clay. The end result should be clay on top, clay on bottom, with leafing in-between all layers.
Form different-sized colored and transparent balls of clay left over from trimming, and from steps one and two. Press these firmly into the bottom, darkest-colored slab of the stack of clay. What you want to achieve here is a miniature topographic landscape...hills, valleys, small mountains, etc.
Firmly adhere the entire Mokume Gane loaf of clay to your work surface. If your work surface is not sticky, find a smooth clean sheet of glass, plexiglass, or other inert substance (NOT WOOD!) to work on. Using the tissue blade, carefully slice ultra-thin sheets of clay from the top of the Mokume loaf.
Use these resulting small pieces of Mokume bits to adorn anything you'd like. I would suggest using a light-colored translucent mix for the base of your piece. (on the pieces shown here, I used Promat Gold for the base.) Some ideas for the slices: earrings, pins and beads, tool handles, tissue-blade covers, whatever your art desires! (click here to see mokume tool handles.) The resulting loaf, after being sliced into, reveals gorgeous layers of striated claywith leafing in subtle shaded colors.
Once you've constructed your piece of finished artwork using the Mokume slices and the loaf, bake at the manufacturer's recommended temperature for at least 1/2 hour. Remove promptly and allow to cool.
Once the Mokume piece is cooled, gently sand underwater with the 600-grit automotive wet-dry sandpaper until smooth to the touch. Polish with a soft cloth (old clean baby diapers are great for this!) or use a buffing wheel and muslin buff to impart a very high gloss. Buffing brings-out the depth and dimension of the translucent clay, allowing the colors and the leafing to show through to the bottom-most layer of clay!