leaving iguazu and back to beunos aires
Did a bit of shopping including picking up a small book on argentinean cooking that allowed us to identify some of the things we had eaten so far. Took this book to all meals after that as reference. Was very sad to leave Iguazu, there was a lot I would have liked to do there that there wasn't time for and if i ever go back, i will go back for longer. Beautiful, peaceful area, plenty of places to walk, chances to see a lot of wildlife of various types, lots of options other than cow parts for authentic argentinean food. We had a wonderful time and i think this was a great side trip.
Flew back to buenos aires to original hotel for the last night and went to a dinner and "tango show" of dancing, singing, and fantastic music with a band including the bandoleon, the traditional instrument tango music is played on. Sort of like an accordion. We had originally thought to avoid the "tango for export" shows and go to a milonga, one of the tango clubs where the locals go. Less flashy, but also would result in me and my father basically sitting in a bar watching locals dance. We gave in and went to a show in San Telmo, where tango was born. They also had a set in the middle by a different band, more andes-area music, it seemed, only they played what sounded like a number of cover songs (did paul simon take "i'd rather be a hammer than a nail . . ." tune from them or vice versa? I thought the harpist at iguazu was just having an odd choice until heard it at show, too). The leader was almost a one man band by himself with a flute in each hand, various percussion instruments, and pan pipes. Very impressive. Attention span got a bit short towards the end, but was definitely worthwhile. Incidentally, learned that tango was originally invented by men dancing with each other while waiting for their turns in whorehouses. Romantic, eh?
was kind of hard to be back in the city after iguazu. i'm really more of a rural than an urban person, i guess, even if i do like to have stuff nearby when i need it. Buenos aires can be a pretty busy and dirty town, too. with its own quirks. like dogwalkers that walk 10 dogs at a time. impressively elaborate and large shantytowns. stray dogs all over (i seem to attract them. my dad joked that he couldn't leave me alone for 2 minutes without coming back to find me with an animal after he went to find something and came back to find a dog following me around and waiting outside stores when i went inside them). boxy old cars that they drive close enough to each other that i'm amazed they don't touch, especially at those speeds. horses right outside of town that graze in the banks of highways, not confined in any way, but wearing saddles, etc. Skinny, well-dressed people who constantly keep an eye on fashion. mate as the common beverage instead of coffee. eating dinner between 9pm and 2am, with or without kids. dulce de leche everywhere. a diet containing more beef products than i thought possible. and all of it surrounded by palm trees.
last few hours in buenos aires before airport we explored a pedestrian-only street shopping area. slightly odd mix of high fashion and tacky souveneirs. managed to find small affordable samples of the national stone, a bright pink semi-precious stone only found in argentina and a couple of other local rocks. had a nice walk. finally got some empenadas and saw some sun in the city. paid a small fortune, but got some kinder eggs! headed to airport with plenty of time to pay exit taxes (argentina makes you pay taxes to leave!), deal with security, etc. and for dad to pick up tango dancers sculpture while i had a "club sandwich" (egg salad + blt + chicken at that place, need to remember so can make at home). was annoyed to find that unlike in the states, where you can buy drinks for plane after go through security, there we went through the first set of security, bought a bottle of water 10 feet from the gate, and had it confiscated prior to boarding the plane for the 10 hour+ flight to new york. grr. going through security at argentinean airports in general, however, is so much faster that in the states because you don't have to take off your shoes, take out laptops, etc.
many many hours later ended up back in the states (new york airport kinda sucked and very odd to not have the spanish speaking going on anymore, had gotten used to it). Dad's 25 year old luggage broken and spent a few hours trying to deal with in boston.
more to say about the trip in terms of general impressions, how went with dad, spanish speaking experience, but will have to be tomorrow. i need to make myself a spot to sleep on the floor again.
Flew back to buenos aires to original hotel for the last night and went to a dinner and "tango show" of dancing, singing, and fantastic music with a band including the bandoleon, the traditional instrument tango music is played on. Sort of like an accordion. We had originally thought to avoid the "tango for export" shows and go to a milonga, one of the tango clubs where the locals go. Less flashy, but also would result in me and my father basically sitting in a bar watching locals dance. We gave in and went to a show in San Telmo, where tango was born. They also had a set in the middle by a different band, more andes-area music, it seemed, only they played what sounded like a number of cover songs (did paul simon take "i'd rather be a hammer than a nail . . ." tune from them or vice versa? I thought the harpist at iguazu was just having an odd choice until heard it at show, too). The leader was almost a one man band by himself with a flute in each hand, various percussion instruments, and pan pipes. Very impressive. Attention span got a bit short towards the end, but was definitely worthwhile. Incidentally, learned that tango was originally invented by men dancing with each other while waiting for their turns in whorehouses. Romantic, eh?
was kind of hard to be back in the city after iguazu. i'm really more of a rural than an urban person, i guess, even if i do like to have stuff nearby when i need it. Buenos aires can be a pretty busy and dirty town, too. with its own quirks. like dogwalkers that walk 10 dogs at a time. impressively elaborate and large shantytowns. stray dogs all over (i seem to attract them. my dad joked that he couldn't leave me alone for 2 minutes without coming back to find me with an animal after he went to find something and came back to find a dog following me around and waiting outside stores when i went inside them). boxy old cars that they drive close enough to each other that i'm amazed they don't touch, especially at those speeds. horses right outside of town that graze in the banks of highways, not confined in any way, but wearing saddles, etc. Skinny, well-dressed people who constantly keep an eye on fashion. mate as the common beverage instead of coffee. eating dinner between 9pm and 2am, with or without kids. dulce de leche everywhere. a diet containing more beef products than i thought possible. and all of it surrounded by palm trees.
last few hours in buenos aires before airport we explored a pedestrian-only street shopping area. slightly odd mix of high fashion and tacky souveneirs. managed to find small affordable samples of the national stone, a bright pink semi-precious stone only found in argentina and a couple of other local rocks. had a nice walk. finally got some empenadas and saw some sun in the city. paid a small fortune, but got some kinder eggs! headed to airport with plenty of time to pay exit taxes (argentina makes you pay taxes to leave!), deal with security, etc. and for dad to pick up tango dancers sculpture while i had a "club sandwich" (egg salad + blt + chicken at that place, need to remember so can make at home). was annoyed to find that unlike in the states, where you can buy drinks for plane after go through security, there we went through the first set of security, bought a bottle of water 10 feet from the gate, and had it confiscated prior to boarding the plane for the 10 hour+ flight to new york. grr. going through security at argentinean airports in general, however, is so much faster that in the states because you don't have to take off your shoes, take out laptops, etc.
many many hours later ended up back in the states (new york airport kinda sucked and very odd to not have the spanish speaking going on anymore, had gotten used to it). Dad's 25 year old luggage broken and spent a few hours trying to deal with in boston.
more to say about the trip in terms of general impressions, how went with dad, spanish speaking experience, but will have to be tomorrow. i need to make myself a spot to sleep on the floor again.