Lima

Aug 06, 2007 10:22

ima is a dirty, dirty city. Half is good old human waste and city pollution. Littering is a rule, rich and poor toss garbage everywhere. The rich neighborhoods pay people to pick it up for them, the poor are not so lucky. There is a rudimentary garbage collection system, but people toss poorly seal bags everywhere that either open up on their own, or get pulled apprt by wandering dogs and spread around. These dogs then poop every where, which I inevitably step in. The air makes me appreciate environmental regulations in the U.S.. The cars in Peru are Korean imports that were exported because they were outdated. The have no pollution controls, so I commonly hold my breath when buses pass to avoid a getting lung full of soot and un-burnt hydrocarbons. There are no public bathrooms so people (well, only men) pee in the streets regularly. You would be surprised by the number of times I’ve walked past a man casually putting his dick though a fence to pee into a random yard.

Hypothetically these problems could be solved with a little love, some 1980s air quality controls, elbow grease, and diapers for the men who refuse to use a bathroom. However, the other half of the dirt is just an unfortunate side effect of geography and climate.

Lima was built on dust. About 200 feet of it, judging from the cliffs by the ocean. The dust is constantly being kicked up by wind and people, however the air is so humid that the dust settles quickly and glues itself to buildings, plants, and people. Adding to the dust problem is the lack of rain. It never rains here. Every once in a while there will be a dense fog that mists a lot and makes everything damp, but never enough to give the city a good natural rinse down. In fact, there are no storm drains because the mist never drops enough water to cause run off. So the city never gets a good rain each down. Rather, the mist fuses the grime to buildings, making cleaning more difficult. Really there is no way to fix this problem with out changing the weather pattern by demolishing the Andes, or building a cloud machine. Which makes me sad, because the city really needs a shower.

The city is heavily segregated between the rich and the poor. I live in Mirafores, one of the nicest districts in town. The area is inexpensive by U.S. standards. I pay $200 a month for a room with a family in a nice apartment, in a complex that is more of a walled compound than an apartment building. The wealth of the city has traditionally been held in the hands of the European-ancestored elite, who tend to fear and dislike the poor mesitzo and indigenous population.

The view from the top of my apartment



Larco, the mall where Peruvian teenagers are as annoying as America teenagers. And where I saw the Simpsons last week.




Most Limanese live partially developed slums that sprang up during the communist insurgency of the 90s. These areas have piped water, electricity, and most have sewers, but not much in the ways of social services (such as health posts or police). There is a growing middle class, but in a city of 9 million they are dwarfed by the lower class.






The slums are surprisingly lovely at night.




Lima does offer some pleasant surprises. There are several graffiti murals around my apartment. This is my second favorite.




These big doves take the role of pidgins in many parts of the city, and coo pleasantly to each other in the morning. Their blue eye shadow makes me happy.




The colonial center of town is pleasant, albeit a bit grimey.




There has been a string of protests for higher wages for teacher and nurses, and as series of strikes in rural areas. I assume that is why this armored vehicle was posted in the city square.


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