Nola guide
This coming week, mme_printed and her boyfriend are heading to New Orleans for a long weekend / mini vacation. Well-traveled though they are, they've never been to the most special American city. It's been 3 years since I left, but I cobbled together a list of recommendations off the top of my head. After emailing it, I decided to repost it here to see if anyone has any corrections, comments, or additions. . .
Getting to your hotel: Assuming you're flying into MSY, you will be greeted at the airport with few options. Your hotel might provide some kind of shuttle service, but more likely, you'll need to take a cab.
Always take United Cabs when you're in Nola. There are plenty of gypsy cab companies, and one of the first pieces of instruction I received on my first visit to New Orleans was to always go with United; they're the only licensed cab company. If someone pulls up near you and offers a ride, don't be alarmed, but do beg off. If you do get a cab, or if you rent a car, you're going to want them to either take I-10 all the way downtown or take Earhart Expressway to Claiborne. Anything else, and they're trying to rip you off.
GEOGRAPHY: The first thing that you need to understand about getting around in Nola is that it looks like a grid, and feels like a grid when you're in it, but in reality, it's spokes on a wheel, with the Lake to the north and the famous curve of the Mississippi to the south -- you know, the Crescent City. So while major roads seem to intersect perpendicular to each other, they are, in fact, slightly angled. This isn't always apparent when you're looking at a detailed map. You're usually better off going up and over than to follow a road around. So a ride from, say, the French Quarter to Tulane's campus can take fifteen minutes (if you take Claiborne), 45 minutes (if you take St. Charles) or an hour (if you take Tchopotoulas). Now, at some point, you should see the garden district and ride along St. Charles, but for that, take the street car or stroll along it yourself. And if you're a tourist, there's really no reason to take Tchop unless you really want to go to Dick & Jenny's.
WHERE TO EAT/DRINK: I'm so brimming over with recommendations here that I almost don't know where to begin. But I'll start with places you MUST go:
WHAT TO DO -- Obviously, you should wander around, soak up the music and the energy, and explore the city. Pick up a Gambit newspaper when you first arrive, and see what music is playing and what festival might be going on, and explore from there. But if you want to make plans, here are some plans to consider:
Getting to your hotel: Assuming you're flying into MSY, you will be greeted at the airport with few options. Your hotel might provide some kind of shuttle service, but more likely, you'll need to take a cab.
Always take United Cabs when you're in Nola. There are plenty of gypsy cab companies, and one of the first pieces of instruction I received on my first visit to New Orleans was to always go with United; they're the only licensed cab company. If someone pulls up near you and offers a ride, don't be alarmed, but do beg off. If you do get a cab, or if you rent a car, you're going to want them to either take I-10 all the way downtown or take Earhart Expressway to Claiborne. Anything else, and they're trying to rip you off.
GEOGRAPHY: The first thing that you need to understand about getting around in Nola is that it looks like a grid, and feels like a grid when you're in it, but in reality, it's spokes on a wheel, with the Lake to the north and the famous curve of the Mississippi to the south -- you know, the Crescent City. So while major roads seem to intersect perpendicular to each other, they are, in fact, slightly angled. This isn't always apparent when you're looking at a detailed map. You're usually better off going up and over than to follow a road around. So a ride from, say, the French Quarter to Tulane's campus can take fifteen minutes (if you take Claiborne), 45 minutes (if you take St. Charles) or an hour (if you take Tchopotoulas). Now, at some point, you should see the garden district and ride along St. Charles, but for that, take the street car or stroll along it yourself. And if you're a tourist, there's really no reason to take Tchop unless you really want to go to Dick & Jenny's.
WHERE TO EAT/DRINK: I'm so brimming over with recommendations here that I almost don't know where to begin. But I'll start with places you MUST go:
- Cafe Du Monde -- You can't say you've been to New Orleans unless you've had beignets and chicory coffee from the cafe, but that's easy to do, since it's open 24-hours. During the day, the covered dining area is so packed that it's impossible and unpleasant. Our favorite way to enjoy this French Quarter staple is to order take-away and then eat and drink sitting on the steps on the edge of the levy, overlooking the Mississippi. You get there by going up the walkway, over the streetcar tracks, and over to the walkway that runs the length of the levy (seriously, you could follow it for miles). Remember, there are 3 beignets to an order, and each will come in a paper bag with an extra 1/2 cup of powdered sugar in the bottom. I generally find that one order per person is sufficient; more than that, and you might pass out. Also: take plenty of napkins, and don't wear black.
- Jacques-Imo's -- You want to try real New Orleans food? Food that will make you weak in the knees and your mouth water just thinking about it years later? You need to start here. The trick is that it's all the way on the other side of the city (in the Riverbend area, west of Tulane's campus and Audubon Park), and it doesn't take reservations (unless it's a party of 5+). So the key is to get there early -- like, arrive just as it opens, or you'll face hours of waiting in a marginally sketchy neighborhood. Plan your schedule accordingly. When here, you HAVE to try the legendary alligator cheesecake. The garlic cornbread comes automatically, and the shoestring fries are terrific. You do want corn mache as a side. Be warned: Jacques is a crazy place -- you enter through what was once a tiny, neighborhood bar, then up the stairs, through the kitchen, and then down and maybe up again and around into the random little rooms and converted closets and hallways where they've crammed tables. The atmosphere is colorful and bustling and exciting. That is, unless they've stuck you in the overflow building next door.
- Pat O'Brien's -- It's famous and touristy, but not as cheesy as you'd expect. You've got to have a Hurricane at some point, and there's a reason the place became famous. [And I mean the real bar off Bourbon Street, not the tourist trap overlooking the river.] It's a great bar, and it has fantastic bathrooms (upstairs). Go here your first night in town, sit in the courtyard (even if it's chilly, there are heat lamps), and have yourself a Hurricane. Buy the glass and keep it. When you take your first sip, you'll say, "Whew, that's strong!" You can judge your tolerance by how far down in the glass you get before you say, "Gee, all of the alcohol must have floated to the top, because this just tastes like yummy fruit juice!" Be careful; hurricanes can be dangerous.
- d.b.a. - down on Frenchman Street, my all-time favorite bar, and that's saying a lot. They usually have live music in the evenings (Jean Boutte frequently plays Saturday night sets). It's my idea of the perfect bar. That's all I can say about that.
- Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop -- the oldest structure used continuously as a bar in the US, it pays tribute to the pirate, Jean Lafitte. So they've kept it looking pretty much as it did in his day, except for the electricity to power the slot machines in the corner. Oh, you didn't realize gambling was legal in La? Be prepared for slots in the airport.
- Irene's [no website, review will have to do] - this is a quiet, hole-in-the-wall kind of place on the far end of Bourbon Street, but it has the best steak in the city -- certainly, the best steak I've ever eaten. I didn't realize it's actually an Italian restaurant (I generally hate Italian food), but the steak! It's classic New Orleans, and it was one of the first restaurants back up and running after the storm. I've only been there once, but a random second-line came marching through in the middle of my meal -- just 'cause.
- Columns Hotel -- bars and restaurants are a bit few and far-between once you get into the Garden District on St. Charles, but Columns is perfection. Welcome to the Old Skool South. Sit on their varandah and sip an afternoon cocktail and admire all the beads in the trees.
- Dick & Jenny's -- this restaurant is down on Tchopotoulas, not far from Tipitina's. It's very similar to Jacques Imo's (both have alligator cheesecake), and the fried green tomatoes are great. I took my cousin-cousin here for her first meal in Nola, and it's still her favorite restaurant anywhere ever (and she's still at Tulane, now as a grad student). Where Jacques Imos feels like you're walking into a party, Dick & Jenny's is homier -- there's a porch swing in the waiting area, and the main dining room feels almost like a livingroom. It's similar, just . . . different.
- Dante's Kitchen -- I know this is one of Jasmine's favorite places to go, but I've only eaten there once. It was very good, but I had a fixed menu as part of an event/party, so I didn't really get to appreciate it. But definitely on the list of great places. It feels more like a real, grownup restaurant than either Jacques or Dick & Jenny's.
- LUKE -- very close to where you're staying, this is just an excellent restaurant that opened up after the storm. French, Louisiana cuisine, but exquisitely done. Atmosphere is far classier (and dressier) than, say, Jacques or Dick & Jenny's.
- Cochon -- As the name might imply, this restaurant is known for their meat. That's its "thing." This is another one that's new Post-K, but it quickly rose to stardom because it's apparently that good. I never had an opportunity to eat there.
- Napoleon House -- across the street from the law library, it's on a quiet corner, but it's a very cool little bar famous for their version of the Pimm's Cup.
- Crescent City Brewery -- on the western end of Decatur, it's, yes, a brewery that has a very decent restaurant. If you're in that area and looking for a decent, casual place to eat, that's what I'd recommend. That can be an area full of mediocre, overpriced tourist restaurants (like Bubba Shrimp), so having a solid fallback is helpful.
- Commander's Palace -- I've never been (shocking! I know), but the place is legendary. I believe you normally need reservations for its more popular mealtimes, namely, Friday lunches and Sunday brunches. The Friday lunch at Commander's and at Galatoire's are legendary because all martinis are 25 cents with purchase of an entree, but otherwise ridiculously expensive and overpriced. So that means that you can get exceptionally drunk while eating an excellent meal for very, very little money. Be warned.
- Bulldog Magazine / Bulldog Mid-City -- These bars are big favorites. Both of them boast extensive beer menus (dozens of beers on tap), funky, outdoor beer gardens, excellent pub food, and a dog-friendly atmosphere. The Magazine bar is less than half the size, and it's fine, but nothing special. Mid-City Bulldog has couches and bookshelves inside, and feels more like an English pub. Outside, there's a large beer garden with ample fountains for dogs to drink. Unfortunately, there's really nothing else near the Mid-City one -- it's across from a cemetary. But it's not far from City Park, if you ever happened to be up that way.
- Cat's Meow -- (on Bourbon) I've never been a fan, but it's my friend Jill's favorite place, and my brother loved it, too. I guess it depends on how you feel about pop music and karaoke, and I would wager that it's the rowdiest and most entertaining karaoke bar in the country. Something that really just has to be experienced. There's also a balcony upstairs, and I'd recommend heading up and taking in the scene from above when Bourbon Street gets overwhelming. Because if it doesn't get overwhelming, there's probably something wrong with you.
- Camellia Grill -- considered "THE" place for breakfast/brunch, be warned that the wait times can be hours. It's like walking into another century -- a century when Black waiters grinned behind white marble countertops and served up malted milkshakes and orange freezes (like a Julius) and all the food gets cooked on one, gigantic fry top. It's open 24 hours, but the mornings -- especially weekend mornings -- tend to be impossible, particularly due to the proximity to Tulane and Loyola. I'm glad I've been there, but I don't think it's essential. Others disagree.
- Port of Call -- I have never been there, but I have many friends whose visits back to Nola are incomplete without one of their burgers.
WHAT TO DO -- Obviously, you should wander around, soak up the music and the energy, and explore the city. Pick up a Gambit newspaper when you first arrive, and see what music is playing and what festival might be going on, and explore from there. But if you want to make plans, here are some plans to consider:
- Ghost Tour -- (Haunted History Tours) -- New Orleans is a city that was meant for a ghost tour. It starts from Rob Zombie's Voodoo Shop, which is across the street from Preservation Hall (as in jazz band) and Pat O's.
- Jackson Square / St. Louis Cathedral -- this is kind of obvious, but don't forget to give yourself time to wander and explore and soak it in.
- Carriage Tour -- I always turned my nose up at this, but it really is a great way for a newcomer to get a feel for the lay of the land in the Quarter. They're a bit pricy, but they do take you all through the Quarter, stop at the most famous cemetary (Easy Rider-trippy), past Armstrong Park, and past Brad and Angelina's house.
- French Market -- Part of your wandering around the Quarter should involve the French Market, which is a big, open flea market which begins where the walking-mall area next to Cafe Du Monde ends. This is where you can find good, cheap souvenirs to bring home (like voodoo dolls and alligator-claw back scratchers) and the cheapest sunglasses, along with all kinds of other stuff you don't need or want. There are a few real artists thrown into the mix though, and some delicious food.
- Preservation Hall -- Classic Jazz, as classic as it gets, but it's really just a big empty room with a few boxes and things to sit on; mostly standing-room only, and no refreshments. We took my mom here after Pat O's, and she was about as looped as I've ever seen her. She danced and grinned and loved every minute until the booze hit harder and she needed to go out and get fresh air and some water.
- Tipitina's -- one of the most famous music venues in Nola, it's down on Tchop. Look to see if anything good is playing and check it out.
- WWII Museum -- if you've got time and want to do a museum thing, they really did a wonderful job of setting this up and presenting the information in an interactive and engaging way. It's delightful.
- Riverboat Tour -- This can be a lot of fun if you have the time and money and the weather's right, but it's also easy to skip.
- Audubon Park / Zoo -- Audubon Park begins across the street from Tulane University, and is a huge, wild, mess of a place, with a little six-hole golf course at the far side. Across the street from it on that far side is the entrance to the Audubon Zoo, one of the best zoos in the world. I don't know how you feel about animals, but the brilliance of the Audubon Zoo is that it only houses animals that are native to a tropical climate -- so no polar bears agonizing in Louisiana heat -- and it's divided by geographic region rather than animal type. It's not as big as the San Diego zoo, but I found it far superior. Very fun.
- Audubon Aquarium / Insectarium -- these are downtown, far from the zoo proper. I haven't been the aquarium, but the insectarium, especially the butterfly room, is really cool.
- The Fly -- sitting just behind the Audubon Zoo (the entrance is right next to the zoo entrance) is a public park along the levy known as The Fly. It's just a big, grassy area with soccer fields and a fenced-in dog park, some walking trails and park pavilions. It's not well-kept, but it's one of the prettier spots, and a good, easy place to bring a picnic and appreciate the river in relative quiet.
- Abita Brewery -- Across Lake Pontchartrain, offers a free tour and tastings of all its delicious beer, which happens to be the best beer in the world.
- Oak Alley and other plantation houses -- If you head west on I-10, you can do plantation tours. It's a good thing to get out and see a bit of the rest of Louisiana, if nothing else, then for comparison. You don't appreciate how awesome New Orleans is until you leave it. If you want to take that adventure, pick up brochures or ask at your hotel -- there's a whole driving tour.
- Swampboat Tours -- these are really neat, but I've never gotten to do one. Talk to the concierge at your hotel for info or google.
- Barataria Preserve / Lafitte Park & Preserve -- Only about a 1/2 hour south of the city, across the river. This is a small state park that offers a bunch of hiking trails, which mostly amount to boardwalks through the bayou. You'll want to stay on the boardwalk to avoid the alligators, which you're pretty much guaranteed to see. The most distressing part of this experience is the fact that you can look down some of the canals and see straight to New Orleans. You shouldn't be able to do that, but that's what natural gas dredging gets you.
- Harrah's -- I don't know if you'd want to go to the casino, but it's there. I find casinos creepy, but the night that we were trapped in the World Trade Center elevator for an hour and had to walk down 72 stories in heels, well, that night I was glad to get to the bottom and go have a drink across the street at Harrah's. But that's really the only fond memory I have of the place.