Pattern Companies
I've been a little scant here, mostly because these past two months have been filled with big sewing plans. All of May was spent on my niece's prom dress and all of June has been utilized to make my Anne Takamaki costume the best it can be. I don't think the jacket can be saved from mediocre sewing, but I'm doing my best with it. I really should have either chosen a pattern with a lining or just decided to go without lining on the first attempt sewing it. Now I'm doing all this hand-sewing on it, and I'm not sure if it looks good.
Since I'm obsessed with sewing currently (though I have been writing more for M+I lately, which lifts a weight off of my chest), I decided why not make a post dedicated to the various pattern companies out there, which ones I like and which ones I . . . like less. There are a few companies out there where I haven't tried their patterns yet, but I have thoughts on their designs.
McCall's - McCall's has surprised me in the last few years. They have fairly decent patterns. I was shocked one day when I realized I was more excited to see their new releases rather than Simplicity's. Every now and then, McCall's have a collection that I just don't care for, but I now await their releases with excitement. And hey, their pattern instructions are written pretty well. The fit of their patterns is decent. I find that I usually have to adjust for different proportions in length rather than width (though my waist always seems to be smaller than the size they have that matches my bust and hips). And accommodating for length is easy. Their shoulder size is too big for me, but this is a common problem with patterns. I didn't realize I had such diminutive shoulders until I started sewing.
So if you want a pattern that comes from a relatively big name and has an all-around decent fit with some fun designs, I'd recommend McCall's!
-As for the other brands under the McCall's label: Vogue is okay. They used to have really neat designs, but this has disappeared for relatively frumpy looks. What happened to all their Issey Miyake designs? There are some of those I'm still hunting for on Ebay. I haven't sewn a Vogue pattern yet, but they tend to have instructions on more difficult techniques. Butterick is also pretty frumpy, but they at least offer Gertie Sews patterns, which are all quite cute. And on the sliding scale of frumpiness, Kwiksew is at the bottom. Just looking at some of their patterns gives me the shivers.
Simplicity is not quite on the same level as McCall's. I tend to have a few more problems with their fit. And I have had some rather big problems with their pattern instructions. Some things are not written as clearly as they should be. There was a certain pattern with a fly front that even confused my sewing teacher. I started out sewing buying a lot of Simplicity patterns and now I have more McCall's patterns. However, if you want costumes, they have some amazing costume patterns. Whenever I head to Simplicity's website, it's always to costumes first. And they do have a few lines I love. The Cynthia Rowley line is wonderful. I always love the designs and they sew up pretty well. I haven't had a major problem in fit with them yet. I also really love the Leanne Marshall designs. Unfortunately, some of the best ones have been taken down now, but they feature a more couture version and a toned-down daily version of a dress or jacket.
And . . . that's pretty much all I care for on Simplicity. I don't even think about their other lines.
Burdastyle I talk about all the time. It's not that their patterns have such a wonderful fit, it's just they come without seam allowance (great for people who alter patterns), they're pretty cheap, and they have a long backlog of patterns that are never retired. However, I often find that the fitting of these patterns is way off. I'm in-between sizes, so I have used their "regular" sized patterns and their "plus" sized patterns (personally, I am of the opinion that sizes should not be categorized). Their plus sized patterns tend to be very big, where I am swimming in muslin. And their regular sized patterns can be very tight. Whereas with McCall's and Simplicity, I would try one muslin to get the fit right, I have to go through two, sometimes three muslins with Burdastyle. And good luck with their pattern instructions. Good luck.
THAT BEING SAID, I love Burdastyle, probably because I am a masochist. No really, I tend to prefer their designs best over McCall's and Simplicity. So long as it isn't another sack dress. Please no more.
Indie Pattern Companies
By Hand London holds my heart in its palm. I love By Hand London. I love them. First of all, their patterns kind of complete my need for a dreamy, wood nymph-esque closet. Secondly, their Anna pattern is my favorite pattern of all time, ever. I have made it about four times now and I have yet to tire of it. Thirdly, their patterns, without any adjustment whatsoever, just seem to fit me right. I don't know what's going on with their blocks, if they used people who are more shaped like me, but it just fits right. And their pattern instructions! Most pattern instructions just tell you what to do. By Hand London tells you why they chose a certain design option. So . . I love them. My next plan is to make an Elisalex.
Colette and Seamwork are okay. I would say Colette's last five patterns, I've been pretty iffy on simply because those dresses don't even look that great on the models. Which is not the fault of the models at all - I personally love the models used for Colette and Seamwork patterns. But their patterns . . . leave a lot to be desired. For a while there, when they were releasing their knit collection, they kept sending out good patterns. I love Moneta, and I made a "Twister" dress with it. The fit was a little off with it, though. This is a constant problem with the Seamwork patterns and I feel as though the fit hasn't been tested enough.
The Seamwork patterns are through Colette's magazine and two are released per month. They are meant to be easy patterns that can create an easy capsule closet and can be sewn up in a weekend. I've grown to like the Seamwork patterns more than the Colette patterns. That being said, there have been some patterns I absolutely hate from Seamwork. The fit is always a problem with them. But one thing Colette gets down really well are the pattern instructions.
Deer and Doe is a company I really love. Their designs are just fantastic, simple but with an interesting touch here and there. Such as their Belladone dress, which looks like a simple a-line dress, but has a diamond cut-out in the back. I think for me, Deer and Doe's taste level is what I love the most. I haven't made any of their patterns yet, so I can't speak on that, but I have been planning on making an Azara skirt with a crinkled green silk chiffon. I don't think their size range is that great, but I can work with it.
NAMED CLOTHING!! NAMED CLOTHING. Sorry, I get so excited about their patterns. I will say that I made a muslin for their Agate Pencil Dress and I started wondering why it was so small. Then I realized, right at the beginning of their pattern, it said to use 3/8" seam allowance. Not 5/8". This is why you don't assume things before you start sewing. So thank you Named Clothing, for reminding me to actually read my patterns. What I love so much about Named are their style lines. They feel so fresh. I never thought I would be aching to sew a pinafore, but do I ever have plans for a major Amber Pinafore Dress. In fact, the more I inspect their patterns, the more I notice all the little details in each pattern. This is one of the few times where I feel like the price of the pattern is justified, as Named Clothing patterns house a lot of details.
Victory Patterns are beautiful and simple at the same time. This was one of the first indie pattern companies where I dreamed about owning one of their designs. I really wanted to own Nicola, but the first I purchased was Trina, because how can you say no to that pattern? I haven't made any of their patterns yet (they lie dormant in my documents folder). But I think Victory Patterns achieves what Colette Patterns is aspiring to do.
DP Patterns is amazing. Their patterns are so modern and unique, I swear I was gasping as I inspected each one. My only problem is . . . where is their sizing guide? This is kind of important to know before investing in a pattern. I mean, I'm probably going to buy one anyway and just adjust it if it isn't in my size. These are my dream patterns. Which is why I haven't even purchased one yet.
I am not exceptionally fond of Cut/Sew but I think they offer a certain type of pattern that isn't easily found in most indie sewing companies. They are more geared to casual cosplay. The only pattern that I loved immediately upon seeing was the Moonrise Mod dress and then I was a little saddened to see how limited their sizing is. I know they say that they have instructions on how to grade up in the pattern, but if I'm spending $20 for a pattern, they had better have my size. But cute patterns.
Tilly and the Buttons features fun patterns that have a wonderful ease to them. The Marigold jumpsuit is a pattern I actually want to make . . . and I hate jumpsuits. And the Francoise dress is adorable. The Martha dress is so delectably 60's that I feel I must make it. Again, I haven't purchased or made anything of theirs yet, but I like what I see currently.
And that's about it for the companies I like in terms of patterns. I do feel like I need to mention Cashmerette Patterns due to the fact that their sizing is so accommodating that they even have cup sizes for all of their patterns. It's just that I have yet to see a pattern from them that I love. Mood Fabrics also offers free patterns that are really quite lovely. Most of them are garments, but they have been releasing cosplay patterns as well. I like some of the patterns from Style Arc as well, but it just feels like there are so many that I dislike more than I like.
There are plenty of other companies out there - Jalie, Closet Case, Decades of Style, Paprika, Grainline, Itch to Stitch, Megan Nielsen, Sewaholic . . . - but either I haven't had any experience with their patterns or I'm not terribly fond of their designs. So there is your list of companies I love.
Since I'm obsessed with sewing currently (though I have been writing more for M+I lately, which lifts a weight off of my chest), I decided why not make a post dedicated to the various pattern companies out there, which ones I like and which ones I . . . like less. There are a few companies out there where I haven't tried their patterns yet, but I have thoughts on their designs.
McCall's - McCall's has surprised me in the last few years. They have fairly decent patterns. I was shocked one day when I realized I was more excited to see their new releases rather than Simplicity's. Every now and then, McCall's have a collection that I just don't care for, but I now await their releases with excitement. And hey, their pattern instructions are written pretty well. The fit of their patterns is decent. I find that I usually have to adjust for different proportions in length rather than width (though my waist always seems to be smaller than the size they have that matches my bust and hips). And accommodating for length is easy. Their shoulder size is too big for me, but this is a common problem with patterns. I didn't realize I had such diminutive shoulders until I started sewing.
So if you want a pattern that comes from a relatively big name and has an all-around decent fit with some fun designs, I'd recommend McCall's!
-As for the other brands under the McCall's label: Vogue is okay. They used to have really neat designs, but this has disappeared for relatively frumpy looks. What happened to all their Issey Miyake designs? There are some of those I'm still hunting for on Ebay. I haven't sewn a Vogue pattern yet, but they tend to have instructions on more difficult techniques. Butterick is also pretty frumpy, but they at least offer Gertie Sews patterns, which are all quite cute. And on the sliding scale of frumpiness, Kwiksew is at the bottom. Just looking at some of their patterns gives me the shivers.
Simplicity is not quite on the same level as McCall's. I tend to have a few more problems with their fit. And I have had some rather big problems with their pattern instructions. Some things are not written as clearly as they should be. There was a certain pattern with a fly front that even confused my sewing teacher. I started out sewing buying a lot of Simplicity patterns and now I have more McCall's patterns. However, if you want costumes, they have some amazing costume patterns. Whenever I head to Simplicity's website, it's always to costumes first. And they do have a few lines I love. The Cynthia Rowley line is wonderful. I always love the designs and they sew up pretty well. I haven't had a major problem in fit with them yet. I also really love the Leanne Marshall designs. Unfortunately, some of the best ones have been taken down now, but they feature a more couture version and a toned-down daily version of a dress or jacket.
And . . . that's pretty much all I care for on Simplicity. I don't even think about their other lines.
Burdastyle I talk about all the time. It's not that their patterns have such a wonderful fit, it's just they come without seam allowance (great for people who alter patterns), they're pretty cheap, and they have a long backlog of patterns that are never retired. However, I often find that the fitting of these patterns is way off. I'm in-between sizes, so I have used their "regular" sized patterns and their "plus" sized patterns (personally, I am of the opinion that sizes should not be categorized). Their plus sized patterns tend to be very big, where I am swimming in muslin. And their regular sized patterns can be very tight. Whereas with McCall's and Simplicity, I would try one muslin to get the fit right, I have to go through two, sometimes three muslins with Burdastyle. And good luck with their pattern instructions. Good luck.
THAT BEING SAID, I love Burdastyle, probably because I am a masochist. No really, I tend to prefer their designs best over McCall's and Simplicity. So long as it isn't another sack dress. Please no more.
Indie Pattern Companies
By Hand London holds my heart in its palm. I love By Hand London. I love them. First of all, their patterns kind of complete my need for a dreamy, wood nymph-esque closet. Secondly, their Anna pattern is my favorite pattern of all time, ever. I have made it about four times now and I have yet to tire of it. Thirdly, their patterns, without any adjustment whatsoever, just seem to fit me right. I don't know what's going on with their blocks, if they used people who are more shaped like me, but it just fits right. And their pattern instructions! Most pattern instructions just tell you what to do. By Hand London tells you why they chose a certain design option. So . . I love them. My next plan is to make an Elisalex.
Colette and Seamwork are okay. I would say Colette's last five patterns, I've been pretty iffy on simply because those dresses don't even look that great on the models. Which is not the fault of the models at all - I personally love the models used for Colette and Seamwork patterns. But their patterns . . . leave a lot to be desired. For a while there, when they were releasing their knit collection, they kept sending out good patterns. I love Moneta, and I made a "Twister" dress with it. The fit was a little off with it, though. This is a constant problem with the Seamwork patterns and I feel as though the fit hasn't been tested enough.
The Seamwork patterns are through Colette's magazine and two are released per month. They are meant to be easy patterns that can create an easy capsule closet and can be sewn up in a weekend. I've grown to like the Seamwork patterns more than the Colette patterns. That being said, there have been some patterns I absolutely hate from Seamwork. The fit is always a problem with them. But one thing Colette gets down really well are the pattern instructions.
Deer and Doe is a company I really love. Their designs are just fantastic, simple but with an interesting touch here and there. Such as their Belladone dress, which looks like a simple a-line dress, but has a diamond cut-out in the back. I think for me, Deer and Doe's taste level is what I love the most. I haven't made any of their patterns yet, so I can't speak on that, but I have been planning on making an Azara skirt with a crinkled green silk chiffon. I don't think their size range is that great, but I can work with it.
NAMED CLOTHING!! NAMED CLOTHING. Sorry, I get so excited about their patterns. I will say that I made a muslin for their Agate Pencil Dress and I started wondering why it was so small. Then I realized, right at the beginning of their pattern, it said to use 3/8" seam allowance. Not 5/8". This is why you don't assume things before you start sewing. So thank you Named Clothing, for reminding me to actually read my patterns. What I love so much about Named are their style lines. They feel so fresh. I never thought I would be aching to sew a pinafore, but do I ever have plans for a major Amber Pinafore Dress. In fact, the more I inspect their patterns, the more I notice all the little details in each pattern. This is one of the few times where I feel like the price of the pattern is justified, as Named Clothing patterns house a lot of details.
Victory Patterns are beautiful and simple at the same time. This was one of the first indie pattern companies where I dreamed about owning one of their designs. I really wanted to own Nicola, but the first I purchased was Trina, because how can you say no to that pattern? I haven't made any of their patterns yet (they lie dormant in my documents folder). But I think Victory Patterns achieves what Colette Patterns is aspiring to do.
DP Patterns is amazing. Their patterns are so modern and unique, I swear I was gasping as I inspected each one. My only problem is . . . where is their sizing guide? This is kind of important to know before investing in a pattern. I mean, I'm probably going to buy one anyway and just adjust it if it isn't in my size. These are my dream patterns. Which is why I haven't even purchased one yet.
I am not exceptionally fond of Cut/Sew but I think they offer a certain type of pattern that isn't easily found in most indie sewing companies. They are more geared to casual cosplay. The only pattern that I loved immediately upon seeing was the Moonrise Mod dress and then I was a little saddened to see how limited their sizing is. I know they say that they have instructions on how to grade up in the pattern, but if I'm spending $20 for a pattern, they had better have my size. But cute patterns.
Tilly and the Buttons features fun patterns that have a wonderful ease to them. The Marigold jumpsuit is a pattern I actually want to make . . . and I hate jumpsuits. And the Francoise dress is adorable. The Martha dress is so delectably 60's that I feel I must make it. Again, I haven't purchased or made anything of theirs yet, but I like what I see currently.
And that's about it for the companies I like in terms of patterns. I do feel like I need to mention Cashmerette Patterns due to the fact that their sizing is so accommodating that they even have cup sizes for all of their patterns. It's just that I have yet to see a pattern from them that I love. Mood Fabrics also offers free patterns that are really quite lovely. Most of them are garments, but they have been releasing cosplay patterns as well. I like some of the patterns from Style Arc as well, but it just feels like there are so many that I dislike more than I like.
There are plenty of other companies out there - Jalie, Closet Case, Decades of Style, Paprika, Grainline, Itch to Stitch, Megan Nielsen, Sewaholic . . . - but either I haven't had any experience with their patterns or I'm not terribly fond of their designs. So there is your list of companies I love.