May 22, 2004 19:01
Life is flowing, smooth rhythmic motions, and sweet wind rocking wave undulations keep pushing me through.
Although the swell was pushed up, then down, by the wind, there were still several fun days this past week.
Riding the longboard lately, Robert Stickland 9'6'' with thick rails and a pointed tail. The shortboard has proven a worthy choice in the addition to my, non-existent, quiver.
Worthy friends seem to be staying very true, super near; others seem to loose all ability to think, remember, respect, and regret when they drink a beer.
Thoughts always drift in and out of my mind, the sort that make you dream, ponder, float, run away from reality.
Staring so hard, thinking, that yours eyes run through the wall. Slowly you begin seeing things often not apparent when you simply just will not let yourself expand.
I wish more people weighed heavily on heart.
I have been told by several, young and old, that I have a great heart.
I continue to believe that I must love to live.
And that I will always love when they hate.