日本-金で黒いがある (Being Black In Japan - Kim)
"WHY IS THERE A NAKED GIRL ON YOUR T-SHIRT?!" Those were the words that flew out of Kim Hyacinthe's mouth the first time I met her, and I knew from that moment on we'd get along just fine. Originally from Westchester, New York, she was only 23 years old when she first set foot in Okinawa back in July of 2008. For two years she taught English at Gushikami Middle School in the very rural Yaese Town. At night she could be found tearing it up on the floor at Henatoma, double fisting Orions at various bars and izakayas, or nibbling on the finest of beef tongues at An-An yakiniku restaurant. She could easily regale you with tales of sleeping in a Lawson's bathroom after one too many drinks, roll out facts upon facts about old and new video games, then switch it up and talk about social issues plaguing the US and Japan. Not surprising considering she was a paralegal at a prestigious downtown New York City law firm before she left the US. As far as Okinawan JETs go, I think she'll always be remembered as being quick witted and possessing a mouth that ran a mile a minute, and for keeping it real 100% of the time.
It's been a year since she left Okinawa and returned to a life of driving on the right side of the road. I caught up with her recently to discuss her experiences while being Black in Japan, something we'd never really talked about until now.
First thing's first: why did you want to come to Japan?
I have ALWAYS wanted to go to Japan! I took Japanese lesson various times throughout my childhood; attended hundreds of cultural events; read every sort of manga you could imagine; made so much curry that I could burst. But my interest in Japan matured in college when I began to study Ethnic Studies with a focus on political identities in minority communities. This is how I came to know about Okinawa and its long precarious history with Yamato-Japanese, China/Taiwan and the US.
What did you like about Japan?
I liked that Okinawa, in particular, was still rich in local culture: town festivals, plays, parades, Okinawan Hogan, etc. I especially loved the beaches! There was nothing better than that mile hike to the beach for swim and then home for a crisp Orion beer and some fuu champloo. I also like how everyone knew each other and that neighbors were relatively safe. It made me happy to know my crazy kids could run around carefree. I also loved that I was completely immersed in Japanese. I enjoy learning languages and being able to communicate with the amazing people around me.
What didn't you like about Japan?
I hated the cow smell (laughs)! I can't say that I hated anything completely but there were things that made me uncomfortable. I wasn't a fan of the kohai-sempai system. Not to say that seniority doesn't exist in the States (I was a paralegal for a year at a prominent firm. I worked 72 hour days. No lie.), [but] I found that some of my younger co-workers were being worked to the point of exhaustion with little thanks and little pay. I had some very nice kohais who would be in there, working along with them. But there were a few that weren't so generous in sharing the burden.
Southern Okinawa, especially Yaese Town, isn't exactly known for its abundance of foreigners. What was it like being one of only a handful of foreigners in your town and, more specifically, the only Black person?
It was OK. After awhile, you get used to the stares and the whispers. To be honest, it was a little more exaggerated than some of the treatment I received on a daily basis from living in a predominately white neighborhood. But the blatant hair patting and gawking at my "oppai"was really new (laughs).
Did people seem to have a specific image of Black people in Yaese?
I think I was like the ONLY Black person they have ever met. No seriously. I think I can stand by that. They knew Black America from various pop-culture icons like Michael Jackson and Michael Jordan and Barack Obama. I can't say with certainty there were any fully-fleshed out preconceived notions.
Do you think the media at large has had a role in shaping the way Black people are viewed abroad?
It's a mixed bag. I'd like to think it's been shaped for the better given our very visible President among other various popular entertainers, athletes and businessmen and globalization. Also, though they did have a rather offensive PSA regarding carjacking, the World Cup in South Africa helped too.
Did you ever experience racism or discrimination while living here?
Small instances but to be honest, I got more racial-clashes from my fellow "Westerners" than I did with Japanese people.
What was the hardest thing about being a Black person in Japan?
Taking care of my hair! HANDS DOWN (laughs)! Also, trying to lose weight while eating rice almost every day.
Is being a Black woman in Japan different from being a Black man in Japan?
TOTALLY. One word: DATING. It's hard out there for us, but not impossible!