Apr 01, 2010 09:07
today, waking up in a small bamboo forest, with trunks as large as my neck, the leaves are a paler green than the other trees and so these patches against a hill side, the multi colour takes me back to portland fall.
but it's the beginning of spring here, at the moment, april showers.
and it rains on my parade. as i make my way down the coast towards kyushu, i keep promising myself i won't leave the coast line, but some how, i keep ending up in the mountains. which is lovely when i'm trailing along a small creek in a quaint old town, but then i remember why i continue to make this promise as i climb up hills next to forceful trucks, that splash puddles like the school yard bullies one reads about in books from the 50's.
reaching the top of the hill is no great reward. it's scary, dangerous, and stupid to zip down a mountain in pouring rain with two feet of uneven pavement between those trucks and the rail. i go slow. i'm taking a shower in gutter water. i don't care. i've got to ride a bit more before i give up and find a grocery store to warm up in.
today i woke up at 6 am, i started riding at 7 and i've only been on the road 2 hours before i give up for the first time. find a max value super market. i'm developing favourites, chains to waste my time in, chains stores that all have their benefits. max values have microwaves and often hot water and a sitting area next to the bakery. i spent 4 hours there yesterday. i read my book. finally have all the time in the world to make my lists, write down my spending, track my life, and as always, get organized. in control. yeah, i'm a neurotic fuck.
i get as dry as i can. i spend an hour in the bathroom wearing no pants, hoping i can ring out the majority of my the water. it's back on the road. the rain has stopped for the moment so i've got no excuse to give up. it's still warm so my spirits are up. i start thinking, yeah, maybe i can make it to shimonoseki, 100km away. that's only 5 hours of riding, if it stays like this...
but it doesn't, it's back to the rain and i'm a little lost to boot. and in the mountians again. how do i do this?
but for all the mistakes i feel i've made, they can't be mistakes. cause they lead me here.
i see a sign for a McD's, a chain that is probably 5th on my list of places i go. but i can't get drenched again and sometimes these places have wifi, so, i make my way. i see another max value and abandon plans of over priced fast food. while circling the parking lot weighing all my options, i spot a coin laundry. holly shit yes! i go in to dry my cloths.
and imagine me. dripping wet, dirt splashed on my face, my hair matted and stuck in funny ways to my forehead. i get in there and start taking off my cloths, in front of proper japanese. the rain pants, the two jackets, the fleece pants, the shoes and socks. i'm not naked. i've put on a skirt and taken off my pants afterwords, but i am undressing, into the dryer. i don't give a shit. i hear a woman saying something about a jitensha (bicycle). i assume she's disapproving. but then she comes up to me and asks me where i'm from in english. i tell her Oregon in my best japanese accent. i tell her i'm riding my bike from tokyo but i am troubled by the rain. she offers up her house. i feel like i shouldn't accept so eagerly but i can't help it. "yes i want to stay at your house." "no i don't mind waiting until you are off of work." "at the joyfull, ok!"
and so here i am.
right where i should be, in a joyfull restaurant enjoying nomihotai (all i can drink coffee and tea). still 135 km from fukuoka, i don't care.
plans are just directional suggestions both while traveling by bike, as well as in life.
one of my dumb goals on this trip was to get help from a random japanese person. Kyoko, (the lady who's helping me) she's actually chinese, but same difference right? ha. this is close enough. last night a bamboo forest, tonight a stranger's futon.
for all the hardship, this is just what i wanted.