Street Games
In the spring of 1983 my family moved to the Red Hook Projects in Brooklyn. Before that we lived in Sunset Park, but when the Korean couple that owned Pollack's Liquor store across the street bought our building and jacked up the rent we were forced to leave and after a month of frantic searching the projects became my mom's only option.
This was a time of RUN-D.M.C. Live at the Funhouse playing on the radio. It was a time of Adidas with fat laces, ripping of LEE patches from jeans, and the Kiss Master-Mix on Saturday nights (or was it Friday) and wondering if it would be Red Alert or Chuck Chill-out on the wheels of steel that evening as you had your 90-minute blank tape ready to record it. Graffiti was dying and crack was just starting to appear, white people didn't listen to hip-hop yet, and there was discussion as to whether or not Madonna was black.
I was 12 years old and in 7th grade and the projects presented me with a level of freedom I had never had before. Sure I used to wander about Sunset Park some, but when I arrived in Red Hook as if it were a different world and I needed to adapt to the ways of the natives. The friendships were a lot more close knit on the super-blocks of the PJs because we had the run of the street. When I lived on 5th avenue between 49th and 50th streets, it was a shopping district and the streets were full of people laden with bags and carts all afternoon and into the early evening. I did not live on side street but on the avenue itself above a jewelry store, so playing out on the street was less of an option. I think the location had a lot to do with my having spent a lot of that first part of my childhood inside reading books, playing with Lego and writing stories. But in Red Hook, everyday was a different game and exposure to something new. Crackheads fighting with broken bottles, a friend whose mom was partially paralyzed due to a stray gunshot, people pissing in the hallway, wild children unsupervised for hours, dads getting out of prison early, my first pull off a joint, hanging on the stoop booming the mixes I had recorded off the radio, and dragging interesting pieces of garbage back to the block when we wandered far among the different buildings to play with. And of course, the need to have a posse or a crew; a group of kids from your block that had your back and vice versa, because you could walk over onto some other block and get jumped for no good reason.
But anyway, back then I was (as I am now) a big fan of playing games. I had started playing D&D the year before and there were kids in the building that I taught how to play and we had great fun killing things and taking their stuff - but mostly there was a whole collection of street games that I added to my repertoire and among them the game I grew to love the most was skulley.
I knew skulley from back in Sunset Park, but I had hardly ever played. In Red Hook the games happened from mid-spring late into the fall. We had a board spray painted in red on the broad sidewalk out in front of our two buildings. We never knew who painted it, or even who re-painted it nice and fresh each spring. All we knew is we would wake up one day and it would be freshly painted and ready to be used all summer. We had long involved debates on the best kinds of caps to use and what to fill them will. The supermarket across the street with its requisite intimidating Ching-a-Lings even sold us kids candles at twenty-five cents a pop to use for filling the caps. We argued about size and weight and were always on the look out for a new kind of cap or filling method that might give us the edge in the game.
Mostly it was the boys that played three to five of us at a time, but sometimes the girls played too - and sometimes when someone's cousins were visiting we'd have monster games of twelve or thirteen players that took forever and had a ton of "kicksies" because everyone would forget the turn order.
After those years in Red Hook, I did not play again for I don't know how many years, maybe about twelve or thirteen - but when I wrote my short story 'Goliath', which included a game of skulley my college friends up in New Paltz were curious about it - and the next thing I knew we'd be out on the asphalt of the development we lived in playing a chalk drawn version drinking beers and hooting and hollering and giving each other golf claps for excellent shots. We were arguing about the best way to make caps and giving them names like "Blue Bolt", "Baby Money", "Stone of Geb", and "Mjolnir". Once, wanting to play a late night game we drew a board in the back parking lot of the town hall (where years later the mayor of New Paltz would marry tons of gay couples) under the bright lights there. The cops showed up and told us we could keep playing if we kept it down and got rid of the beer. So we did.
That was the summer of 1998.
When I found out the place I would be this past weekend had a large swathe of unused asphalt, I knew we had to dig that game back up. So, Sean and I collected a bunch of caps to bring with us and I bought a bucket of sidewalk chalk and taught everyone, even as we struggled to remember the rules ourselves. And damn was it fun. We made pieces and others took up the tradition of naming htem. THere was my own cap, "Lemon Bomb", and Sean had "The Big Red Machine" and "Hypnosis". There was "Warm Piss", "Mac Attack" and "Shitty Bitty", too.
I've been thinking it'd be cool to organize some kind of Brooklyn Skulley league. And to that end, I have written up the rules.
Rules for Skulley (aka Skelley and Skellsy)
Note: These rules were derived from "Red Hook Projects" rules and then refined over time from games played during college years. Different neighborhoods throughout Brooklyn and the other boroughs had different rules for how the game was played.
Object of the Game:
To move your cap along the numbers of the board in order and then back down to 1 again. The first person to accomplish this wins the game. However, there is also a "Killer Diller" spoiler options (see variations).
The Board
The board is typically drawn on a flat asphalt surface and consists of a box seven to eight feet to a side with smaller numbered boxes on the corners and along the sides. The numbered boxes should all be the same size as each other, but that size varies from 8 to 10 inches depending on how the board is made. The skulley box should be the same length on each side as two of the normal numbered boxes put together (i.e. 16 to 20 inches).
The boxes are numbered as follows:
The starting line is drawn three to five feet from the '4' box facing the '1' box.
It is important to note that the outer line of the Skulley board's box only serves to help determine distances and as an area for other players to clear while someone is taking their turn. Play can happen anywhere on the sidewalk outside of the box, though often people play "No Streetsies" (meaning any piece accidentally thrown or knocked into the street can be played from the curb).
Making A Cap
In the old days Skulley caps were usually made from gallon milk jug caps. However, most gallon milk containers now have the peel away plastic strip with the cap that snaps on the top, not having the high sides that work for filling and flicking/pushing/tossing the cap (see Moving Your Cap below).
These days any cap around an inch and a half in diameter and with raised sides ranging from a quarter to half inch high will make a decent cap. Some people prefer metal caps and some prefer plastic ones. Some people prefer heavier caps and others prefer lighter ones. Typically the process for preparing the cap for game play includes putting coins or other small weighted objects in the cap and filling the rest with candle wax and letting it dry. Some players prefer clay as it is heavier and does not requires use of fire, and can be prepared much more quickly. However, clay can dry out and sometimes it can be too heavy.
Caps of a diameter greater than an inch and a half have the double disadvantage of catching "line" much more often (see "Moving Along the Numbers" below) and being a larger target for others to strike you for free numbers (see "Hitting Other Caps" below). Caps with sides that are too high have a tendency to roll. The same is true for caps with a narrow diameter. They also tend to bounce away and then roll when tossed.
Moving Your Cap
There are three ways to move your cap:
1) The Flick - This is the traditional way of sliding your cap towards the numbers or other caps, by holding the index or middle finger with the thumb next to the cap and flicking the finger outward.
2) The Pushcart - Using the tips of your fingers, the side of your hand or your knuckle you may push your cap in the direction you would like it to go. However, you hand may not touch the asphalt when using this method; doing so is a penalty (see Penalties below).
3) The Toss - When more than three feet from your target number you may pick up your cap and toss it towards the number (or intervening caps). The cap must be actually lifted off the asphalt and cannot be scrapped along the ground. If tossing from a gained number, both of the player's feet must be behind the numbered box when tossing. If you pick up the cap to toss it, it must be tossed. It cannot be put back on the ground to be pushed or flicked. When tossing the cap is generally squeezed between the thumb and the first knuckle of either the pointer finger or the middle finger, giving it some spin when it is released.
If a push or a flick touches the cap, but it does not actually move this still counts as a turn and play moves on to whoever's turn is next. If a player picks up his piece to toss it and accidentally drops it, this counts as a turn and play moves on to whoever's turn is next.
If a cap ends up face down after being pushed, tossed or flicked it must be turned right side up in its spot.
Interference: Caps are playable off of anything that might have arrested or deflected their trajectory. While players are allowed to brush away garbage and other debris in front of their cap before taking their turn, any shot that is blocked or deflected by such debris still counts. As do shots that accidentally knock against opponent's or observers' feet. Other players and observers must step outside the confines of the board if asked by a player taking their turn.
Starting the Game
The game begins with the players taking turn tossing for "1" from 3 to 5 feet behind the "4" (which is usually marked with a line). The winner of the previous game determines the order of play. In the case of a first game order is determined by "calling it", that is, whomever calls out their number in the turn order first gets to go in that spot in the order.
It is often considered advantageous to go last because of the target rich environment of caps around the "1" after the rest of the players have tossed their caps in that direction.
Moving Along the Numbers
Any time your cap enters a numbered box without any part of it touching the line of the box (which, appropriately enough is called "line" when it does touch the line) you immediately get another turn. If another cap is within range to be struck you may leave the cap where it is and try to hit to automatically get the next number (see "Hitting Other Caps"). However, if you pick up you cap to toss it to the next number you must toss it and cannot change your mind to hit a nearby cap (nearby is defined as within 3 feet of your cap).
As long as you keep hitting numbers your turn continues.
In the cases where there is no referee and there is a dispute as to whether something is "line" or not (often called "kissing") a simple majority of the other players decides whether something is line or not with a tie being broken by a coin toss.
Hitting Other Caps
Whenever your cap strikes another cap, either by intent or accidentally, you are automatically awarded your next number and may toss from there to the succeeding number. You may NOT place your cap in the awarded box to shoot for another nearby cap. The only exception to this is if you hit a cap to gain the '13' box. In that case, you may place your cap in the center of the '13' box and flick or push from there.
You cannot gain sequential numbers off the same cap in the same turn.
If a cap is hit into a number box its player was headed for, on that players next turn he needs to only touch the cap to "claim the number" and then can toss for the next number.
If a cap strikes a cap and then ends up in the box it was headed for in the next turn only one of these events counts (as they both have the same effect). That is, the player can pick up his piece and toss for the next number, or attempt to hit a different nearby cap to be awarded the next number.
Caps trapped in skulley that are hit do not grant a number. They are considered 'dead' until knocked free (see Skulley).
Getting several free turns off the same cap in the progress of one game is often referred to as "bitching off" someone.
Skulley
The number '13' is at the center of the board surrounded by a large box usually adorned with skulls. Any cap that ends up in the skulley area is trapped there until they are knocked out by another player's cap and cannot take any more turns until then. If the cap is touching the line around the skulley area or around the '13' box this they are not considered 'in skulley'.
When knocking someone out of skulley your piece must also clear that skull area or else you are trapped there until freed. If successful, the person knocking the trapped cap out of skulley immediately gains a number of free turns equal to the last number the person who was trapped successfully gained. Thus, if the trapped cap's player had made it into '6' and was shooting for '7' when they were trapped, the player knocking him out would gain 6 free turns. Turns gained from hitting a number or another cap while taking free turns gained from freeing someone for skulley do not count against those gained free turns.
Penalties
There are two basic ways to enforce penalties that must be agreed upon by players before the game begins. Sometimes it is agreed that the winner of a previous game is the one that calls the penalty type. The choices are Kicksies and Loss of Turn.
1) Going Out of Turn - If you move your cap out of turn one of two things happens. If the Kicksies penalty is called the player whose turn was skipped gets to kick your piece as hard as they like away from the board and the penalized player must begin his next turn from wherever the cap ends up. Often times, the Kicksies rule is tempered with limitations such as "No Streetsies" (the cap cannot be kicked into a street with any amount of car traffic, and if it is the penalized player is allowed to pick up their cap and place it on the curb and play from there). If the Loss of Turn penalty is being used, the cap must be moved back to the center of the last numbered box they gained and they lose their next turn.
2) Moving the Wrong Cap - If you pick up, flick, toss or push an opponent's cap accidentally it gets placed back approximately where it was before and if the Kicksies penalty is in play, the person whose cap it is may kick your piece as described in "Going Out of Turn" and the penalized player immediately takes their turn from there. If the Loss of Turn rule is in effect, the moved piece is placed back as close to where it originally was as possible and the penalized player loses their current turn.
3) Pushcart Dragging - When a player's hand touches the asphalt when applying a pushcart the piece is placed back to as close as to where it was as possible and the immediate turn is lost.
Winning the Game
The first player to get his cap back to the '1' box by moving it up and then down the numbers wins the game. Typically, the other players continue to determine 2nd place, 3rd place, etc…
Variations
The variations listed below are usually agreed upon by the players before the game begins (or majority rules if consensus cannot be reached). In some cases, the winner of the previous game may "call" a variant for the next game.
This was a time of RUN-D.M.C. Live at the Funhouse playing on the radio. It was a time of Adidas with fat laces, ripping of LEE patches from jeans, and the Kiss Master-Mix on Saturday nights (or was it Friday) and wondering if it would be Red Alert or Chuck Chill-out on the wheels of steel that evening as you had your 90-minute blank tape ready to record it. Graffiti was dying and crack was just starting to appear, white people didn't listen to hip-hop yet, and there was discussion as to whether or not Madonna was black.
I was 12 years old and in 7th grade and the projects presented me with a level of freedom I had never had before. Sure I used to wander about Sunset Park some, but when I arrived in Red Hook as if it were a different world and I needed to adapt to the ways of the natives. The friendships were a lot more close knit on the super-blocks of the PJs because we had the run of the street. When I lived on 5th avenue between 49th and 50th streets, it was a shopping district and the streets were full of people laden with bags and carts all afternoon and into the early evening. I did not live on side street but on the avenue itself above a jewelry store, so playing out on the street was less of an option. I think the location had a lot to do with my having spent a lot of that first part of my childhood inside reading books, playing with Lego and writing stories. But in Red Hook, everyday was a different game and exposure to something new. Crackheads fighting with broken bottles, a friend whose mom was partially paralyzed due to a stray gunshot, people pissing in the hallway, wild children unsupervised for hours, dads getting out of prison early, my first pull off a joint, hanging on the stoop booming the mixes I had recorded off the radio, and dragging interesting pieces of garbage back to the block when we wandered far among the different buildings to play with. And of course, the need to have a posse or a crew; a group of kids from your block that had your back and vice versa, because you could walk over onto some other block and get jumped for no good reason.
But anyway, back then I was (as I am now) a big fan of playing games. I had started playing D&D the year before and there were kids in the building that I taught how to play and we had great fun killing things and taking their stuff - but mostly there was a whole collection of street games that I added to my repertoire and among them the game I grew to love the most was skulley.
I knew skulley from back in Sunset Park, but I had hardly ever played. In Red Hook the games happened from mid-spring late into the fall. We had a board spray painted in red on the broad sidewalk out in front of our two buildings. We never knew who painted it, or even who re-painted it nice and fresh each spring. All we knew is we would wake up one day and it would be freshly painted and ready to be used all summer. We had long involved debates on the best kinds of caps to use and what to fill them will. The supermarket across the street with its requisite intimidating Ching-a-Lings even sold us kids candles at twenty-five cents a pop to use for filling the caps. We argued about size and weight and were always on the look out for a new kind of cap or filling method that might give us the edge in the game.
Mostly it was the boys that played three to five of us at a time, but sometimes the girls played too - and sometimes when someone's cousins were visiting we'd have monster games of twelve or thirteen players that took forever and had a ton of "kicksies" because everyone would forget the turn order.
After those years in Red Hook, I did not play again for I don't know how many years, maybe about twelve or thirteen - but when I wrote my short story 'Goliath', which included a game of skulley my college friends up in New Paltz were curious about it - and the next thing I knew we'd be out on the asphalt of the development we lived in playing a chalk drawn version drinking beers and hooting and hollering and giving each other golf claps for excellent shots. We were arguing about the best way to make caps and giving them names like "Blue Bolt", "Baby Money", "Stone of Geb", and "Mjolnir". Once, wanting to play a late night game we drew a board in the back parking lot of the town hall (where years later the mayor of New Paltz would marry tons of gay couples) under the bright lights there. The cops showed up and told us we could keep playing if we kept it down and got rid of the beer. So we did.
That was the summer of 1998.
When I found out the place I would be this past weekend had a large swathe of unused asphalt, I knew we had to dig that game back up. So, Sean and I collected a bunch of caps to bring with us and I bought a bucket of sidewalk chalk and taught everyone, even as we struggled to remember the rules ourselves. And damn was it fun. We made pieces and others took up the tradition of naming htem. THere was my own cap, "Lemon Bomb", and Sean had "The Big Red Machine" and "Hypnosis". There was "Warm Piss", "Mac Attack" and "Shitty Bitty", too.
I've been thinking it'd be cool to organize some kind of Brooklyn Skulley league. And to that end, I have written up the rules.
Rules for Skulley (aka Skelley and Skellsy)
Note: These rules were derived from "Red Hook Projects" rules and then refined over time from games played during college years. Different neighborhoods throughout Brooklyn and the other boroughs had different rules for how the game was played.
Object of the Game:
To move your cap along the numbers of the board in order and then back down to 1 again. The first person to accomplish this wins the game. However, there is also a "Killer Diller" spoiler options (see variations).
The Board
The board is typically drawn on a flat asphalt surface and consists of a box seven to eight feet to a side with smaller numbered boxes on the corners and along the sides. The numbered boxes should all be the same size as each other, but that size varies from 8 to 10 inches depending on how the board is made. The skulley box should be the same length on each side as two of the normal numbered boxes put together (i.e. 16 to 20 inches).
The boxes are numbered as follows:
- The '1' and '2' boxes are diagonally across from one another, as are the '3' and '4' boxes.
- The '5' and '7' boxes are adjacent to each other between the '2' and '3' boxes, with the '5' on the side closer to the '3'.
- The '6' and '8' boxes are adjacent to each other between the '1' and '4' boxes, with the '8' being on the side 'closer' to '1'.
- The '9' and '11' boxes are adjacent to each other between the '1' and '3' boxes with the '9' being closer to the '3'.
- The '10' and '12' boxes are adjacent to each other between the '2' and '4' boxes with the '12' being closer to the '2'.
- The '13' box goes in the very center of the board surrounded by a box twice its size and surrounded by skulls to depict the skulley area.
The starting line is drawn three to five feet from the '4' box facing the '1' box.
It is important to note that the outer line of the Skulley board's box only serves to help determine distances and as an area for other players to clear while someone is taking their turn. Play can happen anywhere on the sidewalk outside of the box, though often people play "No Streetsies" (meaning any piece accidentally thrown or knocked into the street can be played from the curb).
Making A Cap
In the old days Skulley caps were usually made from gallon milk jug caps. However, most gallon milk containers now have the peel away plastic strip with the cap that snaps on the top, not having the high sides that work for filling and flicking/pushing/tossing the cap (see Moving Your Cap below).
These days any cap around an inch and a half in diameter and with raised sides ranging from a quarter to half inch high will make a decent cap. Some people prefer metal caps and some prefer plastic ones. Some people prefer heavier caps and others prefer lighter ones. Typically the process for preparing the cap for game play includes putting coins or other small weighted objects in the cap and filling the rest with candle wax and letting it dry. Some players prefer clay as it is heavier and does not requires use of fire, and can be prepared much more quickly. However, clay can dry out and sometimes it can be too heavy.
Caps of a diameter greater than an inch and a half have the double disadvantage of catching "line" much more often (see "Moving Along the Numbers" below) and being a larger target for others to strike you for free numbers (see "Hitting Other Caps" below). Caps with sides that are too high have a tendency to roll. The same is true for caps with a narrow diameter. They also tend to bounce away and then roll when tossed.
Moving Your Cap
There are three ways to move your cap:
1) The Flick - This is the traditional way of sliding your cap towards the numbers or other caps, by holding the index or middle finger with the thumb next to the cap and flicking the finger outward.
2) The Pushcart - Using the tips of your fingers, the side of your hand or your knuckle you may push your cap in the direction you would like it to go. However, you hand may not touch the asphalt when using this method; doing so is a penalty (see Penalties below).
3) The Toss - When more than three feet from your target number you may pick up your cap and toss it towards the number (or intervening caps). The cap must be actually lifted off the asphalt and cannot be scrapped along the ground. If tossing from a gained number, both of the player's feet must be behind the numbered box when tossing. If you pick up the cap to toss it, it must be tossed. It cannot be put back on the ground to be pushed or flicked. When tossing the cap is generally squeezed between the thumb and the first knuckle of either the pointer finger or the middle finger, giving it some spin when it is released.
If a push or a flick touches the cap, but it does not actually move this still counts as a turn and play moves on to whoever's turn is next. If a player picks up his piece to toss it and accidentally drops it, this counts as a turn and play moves on to whoever's turn is next.
If a cap ends up face down after being pushed, tossed or flicked it must be turned right side up in its spot.
Interference: Caps are playable off of anything that might have arrested or deflected their trajectory. While players are allowed to brush away garbage and other debris in front of their cap before taking their turn, any shot that is blocked or deflected by such debris still counts. As do shots that accidentally knock against opponent's or observers' feet. Other players and observers must step outside the confines of the board if asked by a player taking their turn.
Starting the Game
The game begins with the players taking turn tossing for "1" from 3 to 5 feet behind the "4" (which is usually marked with a line). The winner of the previous game determines the order of play. In the case of a first game order is determined by "calling it", that is, whomever calls out their number in the turn order first gets to go in that spot in the order.
It is often considered advantageous to go last because of the target rich environment of caps around the "1" after the rest of the players have tossed their caps in that direction.
Moving Along the Numbers
Any time your cap enters a numbered box without any part of it touching the line of the box (which, appropriately enough is called "line" when it does touch the line) you immediately get another turn. If another cap is within range to be struck you may leave the cap where it is and try to hit to automatically get the next number (see "Hitting Other Caps"). However, if you pick up you cap to toss it to the next number you must toss it and cannot change your mind to hit a nearby cap (nearby is defined as within 3 feet of your cap).
As long as you keep hitting numbers your turn continues.
In the cases where there is no referee and there is a dispute as to whether something is "line" or not (often called "kissing") a simple majority of the other players decides whether something is line or not with a tie being broken by a coin toss.
Hitting Other Caps
Whenever your cap strikes another cap, either by intent or accidentally, you are automatically awarded your next number and may toss from there to the succeeding number. You may NOT place your cap in the awarded box to shoot for another nearby cap. The only exception to this is if you hit a cap to gain the '13' box. In that case, you may place your cap in the center of the '13' box and flick or push from there.
You cannot gain sequential numbers off the same cap in the same turn.
If a cap is hit into a number box its player was headed for, on that players next turn he needs to only touch the cap to "claim the number" and then can toss for the next number.
If a cap strikes a cap and then ends up in the box it was headed for in the next turn only one of these events counts (as they both have the same effect). That is, the player can pick up his piece and toss for the next number, or attempt to hit a different nearby cap to be awarded the next number.
Caps trapped in skulley that are hit do not grant a number. They are considered 'dead' until knocked free (see Skulley).
Getting several free turns off the same cap in the progress of one game is often referred to as "bitching off" someone.
Skulley
The number '13' is at the center of the board surrounded by a large box usually adorned with skulls. Any cap that ends up in the skulley area is trapped there until they are knocked out by another player's cap and cannot take any more turns until then. If the cap is touching the line around the skulley area or around the '13' box this they are not considered 'in skulley'.
When knocking someone out of skulley your piece must also clear that skull area or else you are trapped there until freed. If successful, the person knocking the trapped cap out of skulley immediately gains a number of free turns equal to the last number the person who was trapped successfully gained. Thus, if the trapped cap's player had made it into '6' and was shooting for '7' when they were trapped, the player knocking him out would gain 6 free turns. Turns gained from hitting a number or another cap while taking free turns gained from freeing someone for skulley do not count against those gained free turns.
Penalties
There are two basic ways to enforce penalties that must be agreed upon by players before the game begins. Sometimes it is agreed that the winner of a previous game is the one that calls the penalty type. The choices are Kicksies and Loss of Turn.
1) Going Out of Turn - If you move your cap out of turn one of two things happens. If the Kicksies penalty is called the player whose turn was skipped gets to kick your piece as hard as they like away from the board and the penalized player must begin his next turn from wherever the cap ends up. Often times, the Kicksies rule is tempered with limitations such as "No Streetsies" (the cap cannot be kicked into a street with any amount of car traffic, and if it is the penalized player is allowed to pick up their cap and place it on the curb and play from there). If the Loss of Turn penalty is being used, the cap must be moved back to the center of the last numbered box they gained and they lose their next turn.
2) Moving the Wrong Cap - If you pick up, flick, toss or push an opponent's cap accidentally it gets placed back approximately where it was before and if the Kicksies penalty is in play, the person whose cap it is may kick your piece as described in "Going Out of Turn" and the penalized player immediately takes their turn from there. If the Loss of Turn rule is in effect, the moved piece is placed back as close to where it originally was as possible and the penalized player loses their current turn.
3) Pushcart Dragging - When a player's hand touches the asphalt when applying a pushcart the piece is placed back to as close as to where it was as possible and the immediate turn is lost.
Winning the Game
The first player to get his cap back to the '1' box by moving it up and then down the numbers wins the game. Typically, the other players continue to determine 2nd place, 3rd place, etc…
Variations
The variations listed below are usually agreed upon by the players before the game begins (or majority rules if consensus cannot be reached). In some cases, the winner of the previous game may "call" a variant for the next game.
- The Short Game - Shorter games can be played by calling the first player to get his cap into the '13' wins. Typically the "No Hitsies to 13" rule is used with this variant (see below).
- No Hitsies to 13 - In this variant, the '13' box cannot be gained by hitting another cap. It must be thrown for as normal (risking being stuck in Skulley).
- Freedom at 13 - If this variant is called, any caps stuck in skulley are freed whenever a player successfully gets into '13', and those players may continue their game in their normal turn order. Any caps trapped in Skulley after that remain trapped until another player makes it to '13'.
- Backsies - This penalty variant replaces Kicksies and simply sends the caps of penalized players back to the center of the previous number they gained.
- Killer Diller - In this variant, the winning player may then shoot for '13' from '1' and if he succeeds without getting stuck in skulley and declares himself "the Killer Diller" he can become a spoiler for the rest of the game. The cap is now immune to being trapped in Skulley and if he strikes any piece three times it is removed from the game. In addition, any cap hitting the Killer Diller is also removed from the game. The Killer Diller gains nothing for shooting into numbers, but still gets free turns from striking opponents' caps. Killer Dillers may kill each other. Typically, the 'No Hitsies to 13' variant rule is used with the Killer Diller rules.
- No Pushcarts - In this variant, all caps must be tossed or flicked.
- No Tosses - In this variant, the board is usually no larger than four feet to a side and the piece may not be picked up. It can only be flicked or pushed. In this version, smaller metal bottle caps filled with clay are typically used.
- No Sending - In this variant when aiming to hit another cap, the target cap's owner may hold his cap down with one finger to keep it from being knocked away.