SPEAKING OF ROME....
As soon as I can afford some god quality black velveteen or wool, I'm gonna make a mid-16th century dress in the Roman style:
"...Spanish fashion did not appear totally dominant: as well as the Tuscan cities, only in Rome, and even more so in Venice, did the ladies continue to display their throats and part of the bosom" (Moda a Firenze page 84)
"And she adorns herself with finery and vanity more than ever, and even this morning decided to go to Mass all decked out and with a golden veil on her head in the Roman style..." (Moda a Firenze page 39).
1. "Portrait of Vittoria Farnese", 1540s, Jacopino del Conte (Galleria Borghese, Rome)
2. "Portrait of Vittoria Farnese", ca. 1546, Tiziano and/or workshop (Szépmüvészeti Múzeum, Budapest)
3. "Portrait of a Lady", 1540-50, unknown master of the Florentine school (unknown location)
4. "Portrait of a Lady", 1550s, Roman school (in a private collection in Paris)
5. "Portrait of Giulia de' Medici" (alt. "Ortensia de' Bardi"), 1559, Alessandro Allori (Uffizi, Florence)
6. "Portrait of a Lady with Dog", 1560-70, Bartolomeo Passarotti (Cassa di Risparmio de Cesena)
7. "Portrait of a female donor", ca. 1590?, Roman school (Church of Maria di Loreto, Rome)
The overall style is not too unlike that of Tuscany and neighbor regions. The main outfit is still the sottana, often with a modest partlet in the neck opening. But unlike the northern counterparts, Roman ladies wore very little jewelry, and their palette was muted. Black and dark blue seems to have been most used. But most prominent is the large, golden veil. Especially when set against their dark hair; they always seem to be dark haired, unlike their Florentine and Venetian sisters. Most veils have noticeable creases, as if they have been folded for some time and not ironed before worn. It must have been considered fashionable, unless it had some now-lost symbolism. Intriguing.
Eventually I would love to make a sottana of black velveteen, or eventually fine black wool, with little trim and finery, but with many cool tailoring details. Stiffened hem with tuck and snipped edge, a small train, maybe cutwork sleeves... It would be wonderfully understated. I'm thinking in the lines the portraits of Vittoria Colonna and Giulia de' Medici/Ortensa de' Bardi. I like the fabric girdles seen in many of the portraits as well.
But it all comes down to the fabric, and so far I haven't had the opportunity to buy a suitable one. But once I do...