MODA A FIRENZE
I completely forgot to mention: I got the Moda a Firenze some weeks ago.
First: I LOOOOVE the book. It's so specialized on a specific field, and it just make my heart so happy. Most costume books deals with fibres, fabrics, later history of fashion or the history of fashion in general (often starting with Tudor or Elizabethian England, which isn't TOO helpful on Italian fashion).
But: when I had read the book, I came to a surprising conclution: I much preferred the fashion in vogue before Eleonora di Toledo. Though changes were due to come anyway, I'm not digging the stricter continental style she brought into Tuscan fashion (but I approve the use of lusher materials...). I don't know what I expected, but the book was very clear about how the fashionw as transformed, and the further I came in the book, the less I liked the fashion. Of course, I don't DISLIKE it, but I much prefer the fashion before ca. 1550.
Since I'm writing about two Venetian churches from ca. 1570/1580, I'm trying to understand a bit of the political context of Venice from this era. And an interesting aspect is that Venice and the papal state were the only Italian sovereignities to retain their independence, while all others were reduced to dependency on either France or Spain (as written in Gardner's "Art through the ages", page 771), and I think this is especially noticeable in Venetian female fashion. It adapt very little of the stiff and covered appearance of the continental fashion, but sticks to the "girly" style with a square neckline, lots of lace (a speciality of the region) and creative details not always making sense... I've gotten a re-confirmation in my love for Venetian fashion after reading "Moda a Firenze".
But again: I adore the book. It's everything I hoped for - and more.