Berlin Diary (I)
11.26.04: Lahore City restaurant, just steps away from my hotel (NH Hotel), Berlin-Treptow.
At Lahore City, I dine alone and feel strange for it -- I request to sit on the side of the restaurant that has no people. (Note: this is a small restaurant with about 8-10 tables of varying size.) The perfect table for one, which is in fact a table for two in the corner, is reserviert, so I'm sitting at a table for six. But, as I'm warned by the server/host (and possible owner?), I'm going to have to move if a party of six waltzes in.
The server has been nice. He said he thought I might be from India. Has it really been that long since someone with dyed black hair graced his door? A couple just walked in with the dog, and the dog can stay. I like it.
Today I woke early, around 7:30 a.m. Might as well get the complimentary breakfast in. And might as well do as much as I can; the sun sets between 4-5 p.m. Right now it's 7:30 p.m. but feels like 11.
I walked to the nearest S-bahn: Schöneweide. Took the S9 to Friedrichstr. and then caught another line to Postdamer Platz. The plan: to walk to the Kulturforum and find the Neue Nationalgalerie. I made it to the Forum and inquired at a gift/book shop where I might find the gallery. The clerk said it was closed till mid-December, as they'd borrowed an exhibit from MOMA and were now taking it down.
First attempt at culture foiled, I returned to Potsdamer Platz for glühwein and a "vacation cigarette." It was not yet noon.
It occurs to me I am suspicious... for being alone, for being American. But most of all, for being alone.
Yet there is something quite... fortifying... about travelling alone. Of course I often wish I had someone with whom to talk/laugh, especially here at Lahore City. The server already has expressed what a shame it is I'm alone, as if it's something to be ashamed of, a choice no one would make consciously, ever.
There is something to be said for amusing myself with myself, for getting around a city without getting lost. And so on. I know the latter seems of little consequence, but there are plenty of people (my mother comes to mind) who would never dream of doing much un-chaperoned.
The server gives me another chai, his treat. It's the best chai I've had in ages because they've put a lot of sugar and milk (sweetened condensed milk, I wonder?) into it.
You said your name was Jasmin? he asked.
I didn't say my name, but it's April.
Tell people you are Jasmin! From America!
I wish I could speak German. My pre-trip brush-up hasn't served me too well. I have a horrible accent and mumble because I'm not confident. Sure, I can read a few words, make sense of the menus, get around at the post office or in a cab. But I really am too shy to speak properly. This is the downside of travelling alone; one person's weakness is often another's strength, and the two of you split up the tasks quite nicely: I'll navigate if you, like, talk!
Maybe I should get drunk.
But I really don't feel like it. I'm old! Flying a little over 11 hours straight from LAX to München, and then one hour from München to Berlin-Tegel, took a lot out of me. And I'm not the most energetic person to begin with; I have to face that fact. I wish I had the energy to visit Oranienburger Str. or Prenzlauer Berg or even Friedrichshain (not so far away) tonight. But it's not happening. I was up at 7:30 a.m.; I'm not going to last till midnight.
And you know, I'm not terribly disappointed. Most of us can't do it all -- and on this trip I do want to get up early so I can see things before the sun goes down. Not to mention that many places close around 8 p.m. or earlier. Museums close at 6; department stores, grocery, etc., at 8. The S-bahn/U-bahn stops running around 1 a.m. And unless one is near a really busy area or near a major hotel, taxis can be hard to come by.
The couple who reserved the table in the corner... the table I'd wanted... are finally here. What's he going to do, propose to her? She wears an Abercrombie tee. They can't be older than 20.
Oh Lord, the server gave me more papadum. I cannot eat another bite, really. I'm lingering in Lahore City. I think I'm ready to go, though, and sit near the River Spree. I've got an industrial view of it from my window.
I should feel special for being alone. I think that's why he gave me the extra chai: pity. But this time around I have a boyfriend back home. That's a new one: someone to be faithful to. Before I left, I noticed he hadn't shaved for a few days. I liked it.
I can't believe how far away I am from "all that" -- the palm trees, the ocean, the prominent sun. The office.
A party of six hasn't come in. I haven't had to relinquish this table. In fact, I repeat: I'm lingering in Lahore City. He won't bring the check. Maybe people think I'm the resident nutball writer. Writer. If only! If only I could live up to referring to myself that way.
I recognize the song they're playing now. I have it on a bhangra CD back home. They've done bhangra hits all night.
The server told me I should think of this as a place to hang out if I get bored at the hotel and all. He really thinks it's a shame I'm alone. There's no convincing him it's OK, really. He won't get the check. I think he wants me to play writer-in-residence. I've just finished Tropic of Cancer! I can do this!
He said the media here seemed to indicate most American's don't like Bush, so why the hell did he get re-elected? He says Americans have more money, but he's got better healthcare. He likes knowing he can get the healthcare he needs. He's been in Berlin six years. There are so many Indian restaurants here, but 90% of them are owned by us Pakistanis!
Lingering in Lahore City. It's 9 p.m. He won't get the check. Whatever happened to running people out, especially the loners, as soon as bloody possible? Not this guy. But I've finished the chai. Does he think since I'm writing that I want to stay here? The food was great, yes, but I'm quite tired. I'd like some water; I have a whole bottle of Volvic I bought at Kaufland in my room.
Two guys with a dog -- a gorgeous Newfoundland! -- just walked in. They sit at the table where the last couple-with-dog, now long gone, had dined. The Newfoundland behaves under the table. I think it would be rude to walk up and pet him, but I'd love to do just that. How is it done in Germany? OK to pinch babies' cheeks? OK to coo over a dog and rush over to pet him?
I need to get out of here. The Abercrombie couple are paying their check. I guess he didn't propose. He helps her put on her coat. Let's see if he gets the door. No: he walks through first and holds it open for her behind him.
At Lahore City, I dine alone and feel strange for it -- I request to sit on the side of the restaurant that has no people. (Note: this is a small restaurant with about 8-10 tables of varying size.) The perfect table for one, which is in fact a table for two in the corner, is reserviert, so I'm sitting at a table for six. But, as I'm warned by the server/host (and possible owner?), I'm going to have to move if a party of six waltzes in.
The server has been nice. He said he thought I might be from India. Has it really been that long since someone with dyed black hair graced his door? A couple just walked in with the dog, and the dog can stay. I like it.
Today I woke early, around 7:30 a.m. Might as well get the complimentary breakfast in. And might as well do as much as I can; the sun sets between 4-5 p.m. Right now it's 7:30 p.m. but feels like 11.
I walked to the nearest S-bahn: Schöneweide. Took the S9 to Friedrichstr. and then caught another line to Postdamer Platz. The plan: to walk to the Kulturforum and find the Neue Nationalgalerie. I made it to the Forum and inquired at a gift/book shop where I might find the gallery. The clerk said it was closed till mid-December, as they'd borrowed an exhibit from MOMA and were now taking it down.
First attempt at culture foiled, I returned to Potsdamer Platz for glühwein and a "vacation cigarette." It was not yet noon.
It occurs to me I am suspicious... for being alone, for being American. But most of all, for being alone.
Yet there is something quite... fortifying... about travelling alone. Of course I often wish I had someone with whom to talk/laugh, especially here at Lahore City. The server already has expressed what a shame it is I'm alone, as if it's something to be ashamed of, a choice no one would make consciously, ever.
There is something to be said for amusing myself with myself, for getting around a city without getting lost. And so on. I know the latter seems of little consequence, but there are plenty of people (my mother comes to mind) who would never dream of doing much un-chaperoned.
The server gives me another chai, his treat. It's the best chai I've had in ages because they've put a lot of sugar and milk (sweetened condensed milk, I wonder?) into it.
You said your name was Jasmin? he asked.
I didn't say my name, but it's April.
Tell people you are Jasmin! From America!
I wish I could speak German. My pre-trip brush-up hasn't served me too well. I have a horrible accent and mumble because I'm not confident. Sure, I can read a few words, make sense of the menus, get around at the post office or in a cab. But I really am too shy to speak properly. This is the downside of travelling alone; one person's weakness is often another's strength, and the two of you split up the tasks quite nicely: I'll navigate if you, like, talk!
Maybe I should get drunk.
But I really don't feel like it. I'm old! Flying a little over 11 hours straight from LAX to München, and then one hour from München to Berlin-Tegel, took a lot out of me. And I'm not the most energetic person to begin with; I have to face that fact. I wish I had the energy to visit Oranienburger Str. or Prenzlauer Berg or even Friedrichshain (not so far away) tonight. But it's not happening. I was up at 7:30 a.m.; I'm not going to last till midnight.
And you know, I'm not terribly disappointed. Most of us can't do it all -- and on this trip I do want to get up early so I can see things before the sun goes down. Not to mention that many places close around 8 p.m. or earlier. Museums close at 6; department stores, grocery, etc., at 8. The S-bahn/U-bahn stops running around 1 a.m. And unless one is near a really busy area or near a major hotel, taxis can be hard to come by.
The couple who reserved the table in the corner... the table I'd wanted... are finally here. What's he going to do, propose to her? She wears an Abercrombie tee. They can't be older than 20.
Oh Lord, the server gave me more papadum. I cannot eat another bite, really. I'm lingering in Lahore City. I think I'm ready to go, though, and sit near the River Spree. I've got an industrial view of it from my window.
I should feel special for being alone. I think that's why he gave me the extra chai: pity. But this time around I have a boyfriend back home. That's a new one: someone to be faithful to. Before I left, I noticed he hadn't shaved for a few days. I liked it.
I can't believe how far away I am from "all that" -- the palm trees, the ocean, the prominent sun. The office.
A party of six hasn't come in. I haven't had to relinquish this table. In fact, I repeat: I'm lingering in Lahore City. He won't bring the check. Maybe people think I'm the resident nutball writer. Writer. If only! If only I could live up to referring to myself that way.
I recognize the song they're playing now. I have it on a bhangra CD back home. They've done bhangra hits all night.
The server told me I should think of this as a place to hang out if I get bored at the hotel and all. He really thinks it's a shame I'm alone. There's no convincing him it's OK, really. He won't get the check. I think he wants me to play writer-in-residence. I've just finished Tropic of Cancer! I can do this!
He said the media here seemed to indicate most American's don't like Bush, so why the hell did he get re-elected? He says Americans have more money, but he's got better healthcare. He likes knowing he can get the healthcare he needs. He's been in Berlin six years. There are so many Indian restaurants here, but 90% of them are owned by us Pakistanis!
Lingering in Lahore City. It's 9 p.m. He won't get the check. Whatever happened to running people out, especially the loners, as soon as bloody possible? Not this guy. But I've finished the chai. Does he think since I'm writing that I want to stay here? The food was great, yes, but I'm quite tired. I'd like some water; I have a whole bottle of Volvic I bought at Kaufland in my room.
Two guys with a dog -- a gorgeous Newfoundland! -- just walked in. They sit at the table where the last couple-with-dog, now long gone, had dined. The Newfoundland behaves under the table. I think it would be rude to walk up and pet him, but I'd love to do just that. How is it done in Germany? OK to pinch babies' cheeks? OK to coo over a dog and rush over to pet him?
I need to get out of here. The Abercrombie couple are paying their check. I guess he didn't propose. He helps her put on her coat. Let's see if he gets the door. No: he walks through first and holds it open for her behind him.