Chillin' in The Gambia

Dec 09, 2007 20:12



Yes, that's a goat on a schoolbus. It's probably better if you don't ask why (a lesson I've learned quickly here, although in this case I know why).

Had a great day on Saturday with my friends Molly and Jeff, who live beside me at "N'Dow's place" (named after the owner). We went to the Serrekunda market, which was somewhat overwhelming. Potholes everywhere on the dirt road, no sidewalks so people (including us) walk into the road, often carrying sizeable loads on their heads, while taxis and cars zoom by, squeezing in between the other 50% of the cars which have stopped in place for one reason or another. Jeff went to buy a Gambian soccer jersey for his nephews, and instantly was surrounded by SIX young men, all plying their wares and competing for his attention. This didn't stop after we left - either we were marked as jersey-buyers, or they saw the ones he had in his bag, but for the next 45 minutes guys would approach us in different parts of the market with soccer jerseys to sell.

I've been collecting seashells in my time off, and found a local craftsperson who might be able to do something with them. That way I can help her make a living wage while I get a gift to take home that has some personal meaning.

Later, we went to the woodcarver's market, where many craftsmen create their goods right in front of your eyes. Unfortuately, 80-90% of the products were somewhat mass-produced and generic. Lots of hippos, "traditional" African masks, stylized sculptures of heterosexual couples embracing, giraffes, turtles, etc. etc. However, at one point I heard a beautiful, spontaneous tune come from a nearby stall. I found a young man with one balafon (like a zylophone), and lots of other non-musical wood carvings. This was the only well-tuned balafon I'd heard. It turns out that he makes the balafons as taught by his father, and they both play and teach balafon lessons. I later found out he is from a clan of musicians/story-tellers who have passed on the art for hundreds of years. So I'm hoping to have lessons from his family before I leave.
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