Viva Italia 11
16088 steps
Had breakfast upstairs. Had ISSUES with the sunshades, but lovely view and goooood coffee. Scaled the Duomo Cupola while we were still fresh - all 463 steps! YAY US!! C---- has a few issues with heights and stuck to the inner edges. Certainly helped that it was sunny this time, instead of raining. Not much to cement one’s faith in gravity like walking on wet marble. C---- found a bench, and I was very amused to spot a padlock inscribed "Ti Amo" clipped to the scaffolding nearby.
Note on locks in Firenze. There’s a tradition, and I’ve only seen it documented in English in the Rick Steves book (page 367)
Florence’s most famous bridge is lined with shops that have traditionally sold gold and silver. A statue of Cellini, the master goldsmith of the Renaissance, stands in the center, ignored by the flood of tacky tourism. This is a romantic spot late at night. In fact, hanging over the edge of the bridge (on either side of the Cellini bust) are piles of padlocks. Guys demonstrate the enduring quality of their love by ceremonially taking their girls here, locking a lock, and throwing the key into the Arno. (But what’s with the combination lock?).
Personally, I adore this story. The last time we went, we happened to be crossing the Ponte Vecchio while a metalsmith cut through the web of locks draped all the heck over poor Cellini. Apparently the tradition had moved from the sides of the bridge to the statue itself. I’m guessing it’s become a regular maintenance issue - the weeding of the locks. Which, in a way, defeats the original "enduring" purpose. Che pecatta.
This time, as C---- and I crossed the bridge going toward the piano recital, we passed the Cellini. No locks. In fact, there was a rather terse looking security guard about four feet away. Then we spotted the sign: No locks, Fine 50E. Killjoys. And now the romantics will be locking up everything else they can get their hands on! There were about a dozen on the Duomo, two on Il Porcellino, and I’m sure hundreds scattered about the city. At least having it by Cellini was predictable! I’m now starting to imagine a grate with sliding rods, and people can lock their locks to the rods, and the carabineri have to come by once a week, unlock the sliding rods, slide all the padlocks off and be done. Everybody happy.
F---- did the walking-pan tour of the entire view from the Duomo, right by the edge, complete with color commentary. Intriguing seeing the Vasari fresco up so close again (the biggie on the inside of the duomo). I want to see HOW they did all this! According to F---- they did not build a scaffold in the middle, and there is some evidence of hooks and rappelling down on ropes. Tough job for apprentices. But these are such broad and airy brushstrokes! From the floor, it makes sense, because you’re seeing it 400 feet away. The detail blends. But oh the agonizing mystery! I did not get to take the frescoes class at the Palazzo Vecchio. Apparently one must call WAY ahead of time in the spring, as they are full of school groups. I know the basic theory - ground, sinopia, wet plaster, blocks of color, detail, only as much as you can do in one day while its wet. But how wet? What plaster? How wet are the paints? Gouache? Oil? Tempra? Argh!!!
Scaled back down, very puzzled there’s not a feeder from the cupola into the church. Refreshed ourselves with a beer and lunch.
Divided up again, and F---- and I went shoppies! Starting to learn the art of the haggle at the market in Il Porcellino (yes, with a lock attached to one of the frogs). Found a charming spot for a beer down the right hand (?flank) corridor - Orschetia dei Porcellino - and got flirted at by the waiter and his friend Davide (DAH vih day) Cervi with a leather shop by the Arno. Bless the well-muscled descendents! And I really miss E----, but the game is fun. And my lesson from Micele is just that - it’s only a game, fading faster than the flowers at San Lorenzo.
We also stopped in to see Agostino Dessi at the very best mask shop in Italy. Ok - at least the best mask shop in Firenze, since I haven’t been to Ravenna to compare. These are serious works of art, paper machie on historical molds. He’s got all the Commedia characters, and in 2005 this was the absolute top of the list of places S---- had to go. She got a set of I think six, and F---- got one that was just pretty. He’s got tons of gorgeous masks, perfect for Carnivale. Most are paper machie but some are leather. Most of the Commedia ones run about 40-60 Euros. Expensive for a mask, but CHEAP for original artwork. S---- first heard about him from the I Sebastianii group, and I think others have started flocking to them. I’ll have to track down his e-mail address and post it here. For any of you doing Commedia del Arte, in SCA or elsewhere, save up your lira and get one of these - they’re stunning!
Eventually met up with C---- again for dinner at the Alfredo place and acquisition of canoli and chianti. Same singers were doing the same Simon and Garfunkel by the Loggia. I think it was even the same line! (the Boxer) Quite the hopping place. There’s alot of nightlife we missed last time, with the hotel shuttle ending so early. Now we know!