Any time you hear mention of Arundel, people always mention the
castle, but it's possible to have a lovely day there without once stepping foot inside the castle grounds. If you walk up the hill, follow the wall around, past the strange little ornamented wooden building…
…and past
the cathedral, which is surprisingly huge for a small town (suggesting it must once have been quite the seat of power, what with the castle and all)…
…then up into Arundel Park, past the funny little gatehouse…
you'll find a lovely little castellated folly called Hiorne Tower.
Built in 1787 by Francis Hiorne, it's a triangular prospect tower with a marvellous view across the south downs, and a perfect place for a picnic. Which is what we did.
Hiorne built the tower to demonstrate his architectural ability to the Duke of Norfolk, but there's not much information available about his life or any other buildings he may have worked on, and he died before he could go on to actually do any more work for the duke. The tower is reputed to be haunted, but we saw no signs of anything.
In front of the tower is an unlikely curiosity to find sitting in a field, in the shape of an antique urn, brought back as spoils from the Crimean War after
the siege of Sevastapol in 1855.
The tower itself is quite unusual, with a checkerboard pattern made from flint.
One side of the tower is extremely weathered, but the other side is not (I forgot to check the third side, but suspect it was also unweathered).
After our picnic, we had a a nice slow amble down into the valley, along the
Monarch's Way, where we mostly talked to sheep.
It was quite a surprise to turn a bend and suddenly come across the lake.
At the edge of it is pretty
Swanbourne Lodge, which houses a tea-rooms, but we didn't stop because we'd just had lunch. You can
rent rowing boats to go on the lake, which looks like fun if you can get someone to row you around whilst you lounge.
We followed the River Arun, stopping to talk to ducklings and get excited about seeing a water vole, and wandered back into the centre of town. There's a rather good second-hand bookshop there,
Kim's, which has a great selection of kids' books, including at least two bookcases which are filled floor-to-ceiling with
vintage Ladybird books. It's not very cheap but I picked up a couple of things anyway. After that, time for a quick pint in a pub and then the train home. Marvellous. More photos
here.
Thanks to
puzzled_anwen for suggesting it, and for being great company.