Two weeks ago, we were visited by old friends from the dear city of Bangalore, a travel-crazy couple who'd give the travel bug a run for his money. So, off we set to pin flags on the insanely beautiful wildscape, and the adventure powerhouse, that is New Zealand.
Click to see the places we visited:
View Larger Map Not all places were on the initial itinerary, but I'm quite glad we managed to cover this much ground without any hurdles whatsoever! Especially, since anyone who saw the itinerary before we left, only said that we had all gone cuckoo to even think of doing it all in just 2 weeks! I'm documenting the vacation very randomly here before the Master of Mundane wipes out the finer details from my head. There might be a more detailed post sometime. There might even be photographs, if we really get our 'a's into 'g'. But for now, this will have to do. Hope you enjoy reading it.
Week 1: South Island
Saturday 18/04: Queenstown
Wellingtonians arrive in Queenstown via Christchurch. No snow on Southern Alps. Big time heartbreak. The Remarkables amaze. Heart recovers. Autumn colours border Lake Wakatipu. Heart soars. Cloudy sunset behind the Remarkables. A bright spot lingers on, between two arms of dark, brooding hills, creating Mordor. Walk to city center. Outrageous prices. Tourist trap. Yummy Lamb stew and mashed potatoes at Irish pub. Best ever *Hot Chocolate* from Patagonia, one for each, ginger and lavender.
Sunday 19/04: Queenstown
Complimentary brekkie. Restaurant offers gorgeous views of Lake Wakatipu behind which the Remarkables mountain range rise spectacularly. Book rental car at airport. Mocha by the airfield. Bangalorean couple arrives. Change hotel room to apartment. Better lake-mountain view. Lovely food in city cafe. Chicken and avocado crepes with pesto, beetroot gnocchi with walnut and goat's cheese salad on rocket, stuffed omlette, beer-battered fish and chips. Honey-spiced beer, red wine goblets. Ride Sky Gondola (cable car) to vantage point. Do the Luge! Survive. Scramble for toilets. Head out to Arrowtown (30 mins drive). *Awed by Fall colours rolling downhill.* Kebab takeaways. Early night.
Monday 20/04: Milford Sound
Wake up before the sun crows. Quickly walk to city center. Jog to keep warm. Wait for Milford Sound bus (supercheap deal via NakedBus). Coach with glass window on top. Dramatic views of Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables. Wave out to Kingston Flyer. Beautiful farmland, pristine rivers and streams. Sheep, sheep everywhere. Knowledgeable driver cum guide. Interesting/ funny stories. Coffee stop at Te Anau. Entering Fiordland Heritage National Park. Ancient rain forests. Maori and local folklore. Unique flora and fauna. Mirror lakes. Tussock landscape. Drink fresh water from mountain springs. Homer Tunnel - portal to another world. The wild splendor of Cleddau Valley. Wonder at the raw power of a glacier. Walk through the rain forests at The Chasm. Roaring waterfalls sculpting massive rocks. Seeing a wild Kea, the alpine parrot,. Cruising Milford Sound by boat (covered in NBus). Quick lunch on boat. Spectacular sounds and fiords carved by glacial activity millions of years ago. Unmistakable Mitre Peak. Different blues where fresh and sea waters meet. **Superlative Helicopter ride**. Flying over high mountain passes. Icy blue lakes up in virgin land. Chopper dives sharply down the ridges. Stomach churns. All scream. Cheeky pilot's uncontrollable laughter. Glacier landing. Snowball squee. Fly back over magnificent snow peaks. *Thrill to last a lifetime* Red lichen on riverbed. Journey back to Queenstown. Picture perfect sunset on Lake Te Anau. Hunting down milky way through the coach's roof window. Hell's pizza for dinner. Glacier dreams.
Tuesday 21/04: Queenstown & Glenorchy then to Wanaka
Woke up early to catch the rising sun's rays over the Remarkables, rendering the hills deep red in colour. Drive to the northern end of Wakatipu. Brekkie at Glenorchy. Mix of cloudy-sunny drive. Secluded stop by lakeside. Skipping stones. Spying on duckie congregation from behind bare branched trees. Back to Queenstown. Lookout for group mate paragliding. Several false starts. Black shoes spotting. There she lands! Awesome video. Head out to Wanaka. Rugged mountains and valleys dotted by quaint towns and wineries en route. Deer farms. Reach Wanaka. Squee over charming room with bunk beds. Sunset by the lake. Rising mist blurs horizon. Friendly, chatty locals. Watch World's fastest Indian mid-way. Thai takeaways. Old 50's wall transistor. Socio-philo discussions late into the night. Scary alarm tunes on i-phone. Death threats and hilarity.
Wednesday 22/04: Wanaka to Fox village
Sleep through sunrise hour. Freshen up and head to Puzzling World. Light bite. Fun photos. Drive past Lake Wanaka and the gorgeous Lake Hawea. Coffee at Makaroa. Quaint little cabins. Drive through Mount Aspiring National Park. *Heart of Wilderness* Photo stops galore. Lake waters of various blues. Reach sea coast at Haast. Piles of stone towers assembled by tourists on the beach at Bruce's bay. Make my own tower. Ocean lookout points. Reach Fox glacier. Walk up murky path to glacier base. Gorgeous sunset between hills. Check-in at Fox Holiday Park. Warm and modern Lockwood cabin. Eat out at Cook and Saddle Inn. Big price, big servings, yum food. Drive to road's end, where no streetlights shine, to star gaze. Head back to room, catch up on zzz's.
Thursday 23/04: Lake Matheson, Arthur's Pass to Christchurch
Head out to Lake Matheson for sunrise. Get lost and take the long walk. Tramping around the forested lakeshore. *Fantastic mountain mirror images on the still waters of the lake*. Sun shines on the peaks of Mt. Aoraki and Mt. Tasman reflected in the lake. Breathe in the beauty and the silence broken by occasional bird call. Moment of reverence. Walk back to the car park by the shorter route. Rain forest drops into gossamer fields left behind by night fairies. Misty landscape lit by the soft morning sun. Freshen up at the cabin and head back to Lake Matheson cafe for brekkie. *Gorge on delicious breakfast under the two peaks*. Swiss rostis, fried eggs, spicy sausages in mustard sauce. Drive to Franz Josef glacier. Walk in the receding steps of the glacier (signboards indicate the path). 15 mins trek to the glacier base. Smaller, but whiter than Fox. Bundle back into the car and head to Arthur's Pass. Nice drive, despite the no snow show. Photo stop at Lake Pearsons. Chat with bird watchers by the lake. *Thrilled at my first sight of the Southern (Australasian) crested grebes or Kamana*. Dad, mum and son no less! Drive through the Canterbury plains, traveling by a dramatic sunset. Night halt at Christchurch, the garden city of NZ. Thai takeaway. Rest_&_Relaxation.
Friday 24/04: Christchurch, Kaikoura and Picton to Wellington
Exit CCH and drive towards Kaikoura. Brekkie at the rural town of Amberley. Old Brick mill converted into quaint little cafe + artist's studio. Reach Kaikoura after mid-day. Marvel at the snow-crusted mountains peering above the ocean coast. Cloudy skies. Pebble beach. Roadside musician. Souvenir shopping. Drive to road's end in hopes to see seal colony. *Lunch at a dingy roadside cart, wonderfully fresh crayfish in garlic butter, white bait omelette, scallops with rice and fried fish*. Hit the road to Picton. Lookout point en route, packed with seals of all sizes. Wee pups bounding up and down. Big bully seals. Lazy mother seals. Drive to Picton by night. Subway sandwiches for dinner. Late night ferry, reach Wellington by 1:30 a.m. Happy to be back home for the weekend.
Saturday 25/04: Wellington
Late morning. Bread n eggs for brekkie at home with *masala chai*. Head out to Te Papa museum. Admire the Monet and the Impressionist exhibition, Maori cultural history, Laser shows and animations, giant squid and NZ flora and fauna, NZ geography and earthquakes. Head out to Cafe Istanbul for dinner - Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine. Tender chicken in saffron buttery sauce, Veg Moussaka, Lamb Lahmajoun, Chicken Shish and Chicken Kokorerech. Drive down to Petone beach for night views of harbor. Back home, laugh our heads out watching Andaz Apna Apna.
Sunday 26/04: Wellington
Late morning. Take bus into city to pick rental car. Lunch at General Practioners. Fish goujons, French onion soup, Goat cheese tortellini, pan-fried Lamb cutlets served on a bed of tabouleh and Confit duck leg with potato rosti and pickled red cabbage. Creme brulee and sinful 4 variations of chocolate for desserts, which came for free as they goofed up on our order. Head out to Queensgate mall in Lower Hutt. Shopping galore. Nandos and sushi takeaway. Packing for week 2.
Week 2:
Monday 27/04: Hawke's Bay
Leave early to Havelock North, Hawke's Bay. Breakfast en route at Woodville. Beautiful scenery, green countryside. Stay at winery, cottage out in the wilderness, overlooking Tukituki river and the Te Mata hill. Explore wineries. Vineyards in autumn colours of red, yellow, orange. Shop at New World. Pick provisions for dinner. Head back to cottage which has a **fantastic music system**. Belt out quick meal - chicken fried in garlic butter with creamy white wine sauce with toasted bread. Cook late meal - chicken curry and rice. Caught Bridget Jones mid-way. Dimmed cottage lights to star gaze in clear night skies. Totally memorable. Not a flickr of artificial light all the way to the horizon. Cool, clear autumnal night. Catching up on precious girl-talktime. Crouched in blankets on the patio, following the many shooting stars all around us. Share stories. *Another brilliant memory to prove why I love Havelock North like I do*
Tuesday 28/04: Hawke's Bay to Rotorua via Lake Taupo
Wake up early morning to birdsong. Catch the rising sun's rays on the Te Mata peak. Orange glow on the horizon brightens the Tukituki river and pink dolphin shaped cloud on the other end of the sky. Sun streams dramatically through the cottage. Armed with morning tea and book in hand, quietly doze off on the outdoor couch. Dream of all things beautiful. Hours later, showered and refreshed, gobbled down lovely cheese sandwiches, and head down to the Havelock North village for quick takeaway coffee, **chicken pie**, apple cream doughnut and marshmallow men. Head to Taupo, accompanied by wonderful Autumnal scenery again. Peacock farms on the way. Rain in the hills. Lunch by Lake Taupo. Steaming geysers mark the Rotorua route. Understand why Rotorua is called Sulfur City. Getting used to the sulfuric odor. *Maori cultural tour by night*. Greetings in many tongues. We, the tribe of 19 nations. Chosen young chief, Holly. Warriors sail past in the waka. Awe-inspiring Maori song, poi dances and legends. Weapon demonstration. Folklore. Goose flesh while watching the Powhiri (welcome) and Haka (war dance). Tattoo lore. Maori for dummies. My first traditional hangi meal. Accompanying English salads and desserts. Night bush walk through Rainbow Springs national park. Marvel at the glowworms by the springs. *Observe in awe the endangered kiwi bird strutting about for food*. Resist petting. Revere the tuatara - the surviving reptile from the dinosaur age. Redwood trees, immigrants from California. Sample spicy leaf used by ancients for flavouring. Wrong drop-off point. Lost souls find hope in i-phone GPS. Sleep well.
Wednesday 29/04: Rotorua to Auckland
Brekkie at Italian cafe in Rotorua city center. Drive to WaiOTapu geothermal park. 2 hour tramping. Rain turns to sun. Magnificent thermal springs and lakes. Dramatic hues. *An artist's palette at Champagne Pool*. Steamy surreal landscape. Interesting rock formations. Awe at the emerald and lapis coloured mineral lakes. Rain and sun hide-n-seek. Poor photographers. Poncho woes. Next stop Waimangu reserve. Waiting in the cafe-with-a-view while others explore the volcanic valley. Hit the road to Auckland. Follow the sunset. Pretty moon and star rise. Blue-purple gradient skies. Another autumn magic. Green farmlands turn into wide motorways. Missing toilet signs. Oops.. wrong turn. The hotel with no name, at least on my list. Signboard identification. Yummy kebab takeaways and beer. Dozing off in the TV's blue light.
Thursday 30/04: Auckland to Whangarei
Donning the big city look. First stop Sky tower. Awesome views, crappy food choices. Watch someone skywalking 10 feet below, that is, about 190 meters above the ground. Photo-schmoto. Brunch at Ming's Court. Delicious Chinese high tea. Satiated. Dive into Auckland's infamous traffic. Round n round we go again. Glad to leave the city behind. Head out to Northland. Beautiful drive along the coast. Whangarei goes on forever. Check-in and drive out to explore city. Long drive to Tutukaka beach. Awful dinner. Book cruise to Poor Knight's Island next day. Sleep fitfully.
Friday 01/05: Whangarei
Fantastically sunny day. Fresh muffin and mocha at Tutukaka beach cafe. Cruising to Poor Knights. Fun crew. Beautiful journey into the big blue. Group matey goes diving. Getting into wet suits. *Memorable snorkelling experience*. Tad bit regret at not having learnt to swim properly. Myraid fishes congregate under boat shadow. Spotting schools of Two-spot demoiselles, Trevally, Koheru, Blue maomao, the tiger-striped yellow Mado, wrasses, kelp and bubbling divers rising up from the ocean floor. *Absolutely spell-bound at the underwater life and lively seascape just meters below water surface* Quick kayaking. Cruise boat enters Rikiriko - the largest sea cave in the world. Unique marine life stories. Later, catch up with stories about WWII submarines hiding in the cave and acoustically brilliant musical performances held at Rikoriko. Second dive/ snorkel site. Heaps of fishes again. Back to land. Indian food takeaway. Big complaint. Cute fishy dreams.
Saturday 02/05: Whangarei
Rain and Southerly temperatures. Perfect day to spend indoors. Quick brekkie at local cafe. Pack bags and laze in the rooms. Laze some more. And more. Clean off previous night's takeaway. Mull over how it always tastes better the next day. Watch Namesake mid-way on TV. Applaud Tabu n gang. Thai takeaways for dinner. Hunt for late night dessert places. Grumble n retire back to room. Fall asleep to Miss Marple movie, er, after the killer is revealed.
Sunday 03/05: Whangarei to Auckland to Home
Bright clear day. Hit the road to Auckland airport. No pit stops. Brekkie in Auckland city. Bangaloreans check-in at International aiport. Join us at Domestic for shopping some more. Sad and funny farewells. Airport smoothies. Delayed flight. Wellington finally.