Beograd

Dec 23, 2007 09:07






Belgrade, or Beograd as the Serbs and the neon sign in the picture say (it means: white city), is a European metropolis, but one that had been affected by 'recent' events. First of all you should know that I've been there a few times before and I hardly notice some things that a newcomer is probably very o.O about: there are still slummy garbage areas next to the bridge when you're arriving from the West. It's hard to look at them but also hard to look away. There are still buildings torn apart by the Nato bombings in the very centre of town, very clear monuments to recent history and also telling of how the city can't afford to rebuild those areas of must be expensive land - it's city centre! And it's eight or how many years later and they are still derelict (though I was told that some of the areas have been totally rebuilt but the few bombed buildings you see when entering the city centre from the West are still as I remember them form the year 2000). The 'new' Belgrade or Novi Beograd part of town is basically socialist block after socialist block of boring architecture. I'm not sure how nice it is to live there... I don't feel inspired to take pictures of that.


First impressions: views from our hotel room :)
To the left I believe we have the parliament building:



Below is the entrance to one of the most central city garages:



The left photo shows view from our hotel room to the right.






The photo on the right shows a central busy street with a view towards the church of Saint Peter (I think). Oh, and the tall building may just be Beograđanka, the tallest skyscraper in town (I'm not completely sure though :P).

Out of many things you experience in this country why don't we start with traffic :). I suppose I have suppressed the memories of absolutely dreadful drivers, because I was slightly shocked myself. We arrived on a weekday when there was hardly any traffic on the boring long highway from Zagreb to Belgrade, no queues at borders at all (usually on weekends you can wait an hour to cross the border and there's more traffic overall)... but when we got to Belgrade we got into the traffic jams of a big city where everything just comes to a standstill or nearly so. I think we saw at least three if not four cars driving REVERSE or WRONG DIRECTION on a highway and the main city street in one hour o.O Also, cars making a 180 degree turn where one definitely shouldn't be doing that. Lots of honking etc. In short, if these sort of things upset you - either don't go there or try to sleep/keep your eyes closed until you reach your destination ;) Hopefully not though if you're the one doing the driving :P
You can still see a lot of old old cars but there is a big contrast at least in the main city - of blingy fancy expensive brand new cars and oldie things that are barely still fit to drive.
There's pollution :/ A lot of old cars + a lot of traffic with impatient drivers = a lot of exhaust and terrible air to breathe next to the busy streets. Air is not all that is polluted - I wouldn't have believed that people actually bathe in the Sava river if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, but they do (in the summer). *shivers*

Belgrade is still a European metropolis. A lot of people on the streets at all times. A lot of big stores of international brands that you can't find in Ljubljana for example :P
The infrastructure has suffered quite a bit due to quite some years where there hasn't been any input into it but I can see improvements since I've last been there. Some trees have been planted and I noticed new lamps as well - I like that. Things are looking up I suppose.



See new trees on a busy street in the centre of town.

Most people are very conscious of appearance - it is important to 'look nicely dressed', especially women look after their appearance with much care - make up and high heels are the norm almost... I always feel underdressed in Belgrade because I value comfort in my clothing more, especially when I travel :)
The people are also very friendly and warm normally - they are very good hosts and they know how to throw good parties.
The corruption is going strong, sadly. I heard of an auntie of a friend of my friend's who got a drivers license for her birthday. Um. I guess that explains the terrible drivers :P I also heard of someone I know there buying a degree etc. You should also be a bit cautious about being tricked - when I was buying bus tickets for outside of the city I was told at least three different prices in three different offices... Some people were more honest about them than others :P It's good to know ahead of time from reliable sources how much something costs/where to exchange money etc. or you might get swindled. Also, buses in Slovenia are getting quite empty but there they're still quite full - at times you may need to stand on long distances :/
The language I suppose can be a problem. Some of course do speak English, but the majority, I'm not so sure about. I can speak Serbian but not that well... Sometimes I completely lose track of what I wanted to say :P Also, the writing is different - they write in latinica, which is the same as what I'm writing in now - I have no idea what it's called in Engligh (latin alphabet?) but also in cyrillic, which is similar to but not the same as russian cyrillic. I am sort of competent at reading it, but am around the level of a first year of school :P It takes time to get to read more than one word :P Direction of a bus for example can only be written in cyrillic at times :)
Signpost for tourists uses both latin and cyrillic alphabet :) on the Knez Mihajlova street, the main pedestrian street in the city centre:



Another photo from Knez Mihajlova because I like the light in this one :)



The christmas decorations were being done there but wer not lit yet even though it was December already. I found the endings of them a bit odd - as if they just 'leave them hanging' :P It gives it a bit of an unfinished look I suppose.



A lovely building:



Another pic of same building and one of a side facade I found interesting.






We saw an interesting exhibition of graphic design themed calendars, on the left you can see my favourite poster :)






On the right is the cafe where we spend quite a bit of time hiding from the cold, using their free wi fi and resting our feet sitting in the comfy couches :D Didn't like the cakes there though, they're way too sugary :/ The decor is very Russian tsar as befits the name of the place. There are plenty of trendier places but it can be hard to find a seat there :/

I'm not really sure why I uploaded this one, but I find the facade a bit amusing with all those air condition devices I suppose :) It's taken from the same place but in the opposite direction and at a different time as the next photo :)






I am ending the photo recollection with this one that I'm ridiculously fond of :)



It's a Zastava stoenka police car :P I had to take a pic of it :D In the front of it is a very blurry passing car :)

I know the photos aren't that great - I was only there for two days, it was cold, it gets dark soon in the winter and without a tripod it's hard to take good pics at night... I guess I also weren't in the greatest photo taking mood. But I guess it does give a bit of a feel for the city? I hope so :)

travelling, belgrade, photography

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