Sewing Flat Out !

May 20, 2009 17:43

The fitting of the TV 1873 Polynaise was very enlightening. The client had a very stooped figure and I needed to slash the CB and add several inches in a wedge through to the waist. And the sleeves wouldn't even go up her arm. Just shows that grading up a pattern doesn't always work for the larger sizes, as arm girth usually goes up with bust size. Actually her bust isn't all that large, maybe an F cup, but her across back halfway up the armscye is pretty large.
Anyway, she was very pleased with the silhouette, she even said she felt "pretty" in the calico toile !  The polynaise bodice over a skirt with a bustle petticoat and bum pad took the eye away from her less than perfect figure and focussed on the lines of the gown. Just right I think for her, and she should be able to manage some front fastenings. I think I'll need to do buttons, or poppers with buttons on top as I don't think she could handle hooks and eyes, and men are bl**dy useless with those sorts of things.

I'm going up to Bathurst again on the XPT on the Saturday morning for the Sunday function, and coming back Sunday evening. I'd love to make myself an outfit, now I know how easy the polynaise is. Well, relatively compared to my fully boned 2 piece bustle dress made at College. Hardest part so far has been the petticoat. Metres and metres of ruffled calico stitched on the rear of the skirt, and then the bustle pad attached. I made the chanelled and stuffed pad from the Hunnisett book, and I stuffed with polyester toy fibrefill. I think it works well, light but firm stuffing and gives a great silhouette, particularly with a larger derriere. My client couldn't manage a steel bustle cage, and she was impressed with how she could sit in the bustle on a regular chair. I'll try to take lots of photos of her in the dress.

We tried on a pattern for the TV Victorian hat, but the scale wasn't right for her figure type. So I ordered a felt capeline from the millinery suppliers, and I'm going to block a black fur felt hat and trim with fabric ruches, gross grain and probably some feathers. And I'll make her a medium sized reticule for her hanky and sun glasses which she'll have to wear if it's too glarey due to her macular degeneration.

Today I spent the day making pattern alterations and cutting out a wheat coloured Victorian shirt and a tobacco coloured vest for her husband to wear as the Cobb and Co coach driver. Tonight I start sewing them, just have to refresh my memory on welt pockets !!
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