surfing is love ... or just a passion

Oct 12, 2005 21:14

i used to think i was simply overly enthusiastic--it turns out most surfers i know do it too.

the signs:
  1. you talk too much about surfing--boards, rides, waves, wave forecasts, surf spots, the people, battle scars, reefs...
  2. you start to look at your life and your immediate future in terms of surf trips, and spend all the time in between planning the next one
  3. you start to look at your finances in terms of boards, wax, leashes, rashguards, and trip funds (not all the time, but it's most of your budget)

when i was in zambales, there was a point when i was just so tired i kind of wanted to give up. but then i see people catching really good rides and the next thing i know, i'm itching to get back in the water.

this saturday, i have to be able to stand up consistenly. i hope the waves agree with me.

oh. and thank God there are no sharks here, not like hawaii or where ever.

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this post is courtesy of the stoke looking at kage's siargao pics. check them out.

surfing

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