i used to think i was simply overly enthusiastic--it turns out most surfers i know do it too.
the signs:
- you talk too much about surfing--boards, rides, waves, wave forecasts, surf spots, the people, battle scars, reefs...
- you start to look at your life and your immediate future in terms
of surf trips, and spend all the time in between planning the next one
- you start to look at your finances in terms of boards, wax,
leashes, rashguards, and trip funds (not all the time, but it's most of
your budget)
when i was in zambales, there was a point when i was just so tired i
kind of wanted to give up. but then i see people catching really good
rides and the next thing i know, i'm itching to get back in the water.
this saturday, i have to be able to stand up consistenly. i hope the waves agree with me.
oh. and thank God there are no sharks here, not like hawaii or where ever.
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this post is courtesy of the stoke looking at kage's siargao pics.
check them out.