When I got off the train at Amsterdam Centraal late yesterday
morning, I was overwhelmed with a sense of coming home. Since I was
last there in 2003, I've been feeling like a bit of a wanker lately
for claiming it's as much as home for me as San Francisco or Sydney.
But I felt compelled to stand on the platform for a while and take it
all in. In my gut, I knew this was definitely a home.
It's amazing how little it's changed. All these cool little shops I
expected would have disappeared were still there: the fossil shop on
the side of Ruysdaelkade, the 'Australian' ice cream company that's
actually Belgian but sells amazing chocolates as well, the other
chocolate shop on the Staalstraat that
hopeforyou fell
in love with,
Female and Partners,
and despite rumours I'd heard, 'smart shops' were open and trading
freely. The only changes I noticed is that the automated announcements
on the metro are now in a male voice (the automated announcements in
Sydney have changed gender the other was in the last five years,
too-realignment surgery or cultural exchange?), there's a new
metro connection, and, sadly, the hairdresser that used to be
underneath my place on Ceintuurbaan has been replaced with a nail
salon. Oh, and the Rijskmuseum is undergoing renovations, so I wasn't
able to ride through the busking tunnel that often featured Himalayan
throat singers. There was a lot of construction around town, actually,
including the same roadwork on Ferdinand Bolstraat that was there five
years ago-apparently they're building an additional metro
line.
I'd also forgotten just how much of a breeze cycling around
Amsterdam is. I remember it being much better than anywhere else I'd
been, but I'd forgotten that city riding is actually pleasurable
there. Priority rules favour cyclists, and the few places they don't,
cyclists have their own traffic lights. I guess another thing that's
changed is that motorcycles don't run red lights all the time like
they did when I lived there; apparently they've started cracking down
on that.
I rode about 20km yesterday, including to Het Nieuwe Meer. The ride
to
halimede and
science_vixen's place was
more challenging than I expected because of all the roadworks along
the bike paths... I guess that's also something that's different.
Words can't describe what a pleasure it was to catch up with
halimede again-it had been way, way too long since
we'd had a real conversation, even though I've probably had more
in-depth IM conversations with her than anyone else. I'll be making
more of an effort to keep in touch in future. It was also nice to see
Xavera Hollander again, which is where I spent the night. She seemed
livelier than when I saw her previously-maybe she was jetlagged
last time she was in San Francisco.
I'm going to do my best not to let it take so long before I'm there
again, and to be there for longer than just one day next time. Then
again, I've been saying I've been wanting to visit places like New
York, Boston and Seattle again for even longer. The world isn't as
small as they say.