Or so the signs say.
I went to Nikko on Thursday, and it was lovely. The train ride was relatively short, and I had a reserved seat on the limited express (it's not the shinkansen, but fast enough) through some of the most beautiful countryside in Japan. And seriously, since Japan is lacking truly lovely countryside (although the Radish fields outside of Tsuchiura are green enough) it was charming. Everything is easy to find, and it was not too expensive, as I was wise enough to follow Lonely Planet's suggestion on the combo ticket.
Took the bus to the top of the shrine, and there I was...
Rinnoji. Beautiful, detailed, and ancient. Famous, too. Although blessedly empty at 9:45am. I bought my combo ticket and handed them my rice cookie things I had bought from the nice lady in the Corner store (when you're up at 6am to catch the train, you forget to eat. God, 6-fucking-AM) who had gifted me with other cookies I ate instead...I didn't want to carry my bag, plus my umbrella, plus a box of cookies with me the whole day.
Here's the Temple Gate guarded by the demons on either side.
Here's the Tori at the Entrance to the Corresponding Shrine with me in the picture (I hijacked a monk for this)
I thought this was very cute, and it shows its a semi-real working temple.
I then went Toshogu Shrine where Ieyasu Tokugawa was buried, it's also very beautiful, and detailed. Okay. Assume from now on, everything was beautiful and detailed.
Also, there are carvings of animals.
This was made by an artist who famously had never seen an elephant. To purposely misquote Firefly, " It looks like he LONGED to see an elephant, doesn't it?"
Sleeping Cat (supposed to be very life like) I think it looks a bit like a rat, though.
And finally, Monkeys. You get the rest.
5 story pagoda
Nikko has the most amazing light. It was misty, and it felt like a ghost world. Soft and faded, yet all the colors were brilliant, it was almost as if in this place, we faded, and the age of the place enveloped us. I'm always in awe of magnificent spaces, and I like to sit in quiet and enjoy the 'feel' of a space especially old places. Nikko was overwhelming, and essential.
I walked down the mountain, took some pictures of the famous Red Bridge where a monk was carried across the river on the backs of two serpents
, and ate lunch at a nice restaurant. Katsudon. Yum.
Walked back to the Bus station, and marveled how even in the most modern parts of the city, the place felt ancient, ageless. I took a picture of the smaller town temple, newer and in use, and just as beautiful in it's humbleness as Rinnoji's grandeur.
When I finally got home I was exhausted, but happy. It was a nice trip. I'm still a bit peeved that my coworker canceled on me, but I'll deal. I think I appreciated the opportunity to go at my own pace, not be rushed, and simply enjoy.