this summer just seems like it's been so cold
there's this feeling
i'm sitting on my board out in the water, waiting
then the set comes in, i wait
never take the first wave, repeats the voice in my head. just wait
wait for that perfect wave
there it is, i see it coming
i start paddling my heart out
but no, wasnt quick enough to get pulled in
i look back to catch the next wave, oh shit, it crashes above my head
the underwater summersault reminds me of when i used to sponge big waves when i first moved out here
i get back on my board and start fighting the waves as i paddle back out
but i cant get past the break, it keeps pushing me back in, still paddling my heart out, getting no where
this feeling, the world crashing on me, tossing me about like a fleck of dust, arms burning, and the taste of fucking bird poo water in my mouth
i feel so fucking shitty, i ask myself why am i doing this
finally, as the set dies i make it back out to where i started, waiting
i silence my mind as i close my eyes
it plays in my head, the last wave that i caught
just wait
here it is, my wave greets me
this feeling, riding down the face, then cutting back up and riding it in, dancing with the world
i feel so fucking high, so in touch
everything i see is with a new pair of eyes
everything is so beautiful
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