I'm in India!
After traveling for a crazy long time from home to Boston to D.C. to Frankfurt to Chennai (Madras), to Thanjavore - I am finally here in Madurai!
After four days of orientation in a resort place in Thanjavor (about 5 hours by train south of Chennai ... and 5 hours by car north of Madurai) which included getting to know yous, lots and lots of jet-lag and different food adjustment, an introduction to Tamil and temple visits, we headed to the city of Madurai on Thursday afternoon. That night we enjoyed our last night together as a group staying in the same place, and the following day toured the city a bit, were oriented at our base-place, the SITA Center where we will take classes, can hang out, and peruse through the incredible selection of books. That evening we met our host families.
My family is comprised of 6 people. There is the mother, Shanthy, the father, Samba, and the four daughters, Aruna (22), Vannitha (19), and the twins, Devi and Latchu (13). The house is always active with so many people around and especially because the twins love playing tricks on one another ALL the time. Everyone is incredibly wonderful to me. The two older daughters are very nice and open and I think we will eventually form a really cool friendship. The awesome thing about it is that they are super-interested in me as I am in them and, because we are basically the same age, we are open and curious to learning about each other. I have already had some wonderful conversations about arranged marriage (my oldest sister is being arranged right now - it is quite a process and such an interesting event to be witnessing), caste (another incredibly complex and interesting topic that is such a part of Indian society), and religion. Ahhh, and the food is incredibly wonderful! It is so delicious and every meal has a new type of gravy or sauce or chutney … I probably drive my family nuts about all the new food items…asking them what is in them and how to make it - I’m determined to learn lots of dishes and make a feast for all you special people in my life. One day it’ll happen.
Although home-life is wonderful, it has been a bit hard in a surprising way settling in here in Madurai. Life isn’t so different. And quite comfortable. Not what I was expecting. I was expecting another Nicaragua-type experience … living with families under the poverty line, connecting with them, understanding the hardships of life. But, India is a different place. Although India does carry poverty … and such extreme poverty and destitution which can be witnessed on the streets … in Madurai it isn’t as in your face as was Nicaragua. Rather than living in a home without a fridge, tv, phone, much furniture, and sometimes lack of electricity, here we all are living with middle class families-quite a different reality. And I am uncomfortable in a way in this fact. In the fact that there are servants in all the homes. That my laundry is taken care of. Living in an area that I know has so much poverty - but out of it - but not quite so because of the presence of servants and sweepers and street children - creates this dynamic where I feel separation from what I want to really understand. And, because of this and the urge in me to want to learn about the other side - not to live this life in India from the perspective of the middle class (though it is very interesting and there is much to learn and much I have already learned…), while never seeing the other side, I have decided to really go out there and seek out what I am looking for. To find out the true reality of other people living in this city. I am not sure what kind of sense my writing is making - Im not sure if it all makes sense in my own head - but, I am trying to figure it all out. Just a bit of stream of consciousness writing.
I have been thinking quite a bit recently on my independent study project here (I am realllllly looking forward to it … especially after the wonderful experience I had with it last semester). I have pretty much decided that I am going to do it on child labour. I am soon going to be contacting an organization working with the rehabilitation of child labourors. I am looking to volunteer there and also carry out my research there and on the streets. Make connections with the kids, find out the reasons behind their situation, create a concrete project with a purpose. That can make change. I have been talking a lot with this real cool girl on this program about conducting projects with a purpose and we are going to try and tie our projects together in a way where we can make better conclusions about situations and resolutions and maybe even create a toolbox and set up some type of way to have an impact on the lives of our research. Because, they are people, and the reason for research, though academic, is to create hope and change. We already have awesome ideas about working with kids through art and creating something from it to raise awareness - everything is so new and not concrete. But, we are both incredibly passionate and determined.
Classes have been going well. Every morning we have Tamil class for a couple of hours. It is quite an interesting language - from the Dravidian family of languages - and totally different from any language I have ever studied before. However, it isn’t too hard so far to learn (although the extent of our conversations at this point are greetings, stating what objects are (saying “this is” or “that is” and then the object in English), and counting to 10 … we have a ways to go), and is quite an interesting language because it does have a bit of English influence. Listening to people speak Tamil I sometimes to figure out a bit of what is being said because so many words were just taken from English, and though there are Tamil equivalents, everyone uses the English. The other two classes I am taking are Socio-Political Issues, focusing on caste, religion, and gender, and Art, Religion, and Myth … taught by this incredible 73-year old Indian man with a contagious smile and laugh and sprightly step. Being in a classroom with him just makes me happy.
Every day has been filled with new and different experiences. One day we went shopping for clothes (we are all expected to wear salwar kameezes (check out this website for what they look like:
http://www.shalincraft-india.com/images/apparel/image/slk021.jpg) or saris every day in order to fit in with society). The shopping experience was nothing like I have ever experienced before. First we entered the huge store that sold thousands of variations of the salwar. Then we walked up to the counter and the attendants then started pulling literally hundreds of different patterns off the shelf for us to pick which one we liked. After the craziness of patterned clothing flying everywhere we selected the ones we liked, quickly tried them on, and made the purchase. My description does no justice to the experience. Just know, it’s pure hecticness, and though stressful, adds quite a bit of excitement to the shopping experience (which, as you all know, I always dread).
Another crazy experience was my first bike ride in the city. There is sooo much traffic here - bikes, scooters, cars, buses, trucks - everything imaginable, all piled together, and driving with little regulation. Although there are laws on such things as what side of the road you are supposed to drive on, they are often not followed, meaning everyone is always veeerry attentive (there are rarely accidents I hear!). Riding a bike in the craziness is quite an experience. Dodging cars and rickshaws, riding through roundabouts, and ringing our bike bell to warn everyone we are coming is definitely a sure-fire way to wake-up and be exhilarated. I absolutely loved the experience. And am looking forward to many more. There is something so exciting in the feeling I get when I barely squeeze through an oncoming bus and an autorickshaw. P.S. This isn’t meant to scare anyone (attn: dad)… I actually think it is a lot safer to bike here than in North America because of the constant awareness everyone on the road carries due to the craziness of it all.
This weekend we are visiting the Meenakshi Temple (for a bit more information, visit:
http://www.indhistory.com/hindu-temple/hindu-temple-meenakshi-temple.html). I am really looking forward to it because it is supposed to be incredibly beautiful and a very spiritual place. Visiting temples is always quite soothing and creates a beautiful calmness in the middle of the overwhelmingness of India.
Leave comments and questions for me… I feel I have so much to write about, to discuss, to let you all know about … too much to sum up here and not enough time...at all. But, I’ll definitely check back and write on questions you have or interests you want me to expand on. Hope all is well is whatever corner of the world you are in right now.
“A man traveling across a field encountered a tiger. He fled, the tiger after him. Coming to a precipice, he caught hold of the root of a wild vine and swung himself down over the edge. The tiger sniffed at him from above. Trembling, the man looked down to where, far below, another tiger was waiting to eat him. Only the vine sustained him. Two mice, one white and one black, little by little started to gnaw away the vine. The man saw a luscious strawberry near him. Grasping the vine with one hand, he plucked the strawberry with the other. How sweet it tasted!” [Buddhist Parable]
with love,
in peace,
meg