Update from K.K.
Sorry to people who hate reading others' travel diaries - I do this instead of sending postcards - one day I'll work out how to hide large blocks of text in a separate window as other HTML wizards do...
Sunday evening I did a sunset cruise along the Sarawak River - a bit polluted but still very picturesque. Walking along the river bank is delightful, especially at dusk (what dusk?) and in the evenings.
Charles Brooke is to Kuching what Stamford Raffles is to Singapore, evidently.
Monday - went on a tour to Anah Rais, a Bidayuh (as opposed to Iban) Long House village. Little cats running everywhere, the whole thing on stilts and made of bamboo and rattan, crossing a creek. One of the residents had lost his job at Malaysian Airlines and set up a guest house, he treated us to some of his home-made rice wine (a bit sweet for my liking) and played a game of darts involving pointed satay sticks launched by blowing through a hollow spear (it definitely helps the aim!)
I was amazed at the number of little churches on the way up, through the countryside - Catholic, Anglican, Seventh Day Adventist - but no Mosques. 60% of Sarawak people are Christians, including many of the Malays here. We went along by an impressive mountain range that forms the border with Indonesia (Kalimantan).
Monday evening I went out in search of some food - though I should try more of the traditional Malay things but found a very local looking Chinese food court and got distracted by its offerings (dry fried kuay teow, bean paste buns).
I find that Chinese people outside China are always much more interesting than those in China (why did the leave? What happened to them on the way? Who did they meet/marry? etc- everyone has a story!) Whereas in China, that tendency towards nationalistic pride is not only untempered (by interaction with others) but actively encouraged by the Chinese govt.
Tuesday - KK (Kota Kinabalu) is very commercial and touristy by comparison - first impressions were not so good. It's full of Euro tourists wanting to do the Real Local thing and do tours - swarming with other non-locals - while the Real Locals hang out in shopping malls and queue up at KFC.
Had fun on the bus on the way in from the airport - decided to go for the local bas-mini experience, and started chatting to a local chap, Ahwan (sp?) who showed me where to get off and then escorted me to see his friend Peggy, a rotund Chinese tour agent with a plummy British accent, who told me that since KK has become part of the tourist trail, things are heavily booked. Hmph. August. Damned Eurpoeans all taking their holidays at the same time! I think she lost interest somewhat when she realised I wasn't much into expensive tours.
I know that tourism works when foreigners cough up to do tours ,but I'm always much more interested in the people than the scenery.
There is a proboscis monkey here with a hooter (in the male) amazingly resembling a penis. Used to attract a mate, I guess, like so many other ostentatious displays common to males of all species.
It saddens me so much to think that the animosity towards Muslims so rife in the world today is bred of ignorance and lack of respect. Is it any wonder that they feel insulted, backed into a corner, stripped of their dignity in so many forums? Any religion has extremists. All the Muslims I've met and chatted to so far have been great people, although surely they must treat all Westerners with some element of distrust, at least initially. I certainly haven't detected any. It really doesn't take that much effort for us to be respectful to their ways and customs. Unfortunately so many of the Western tourists here make no effort at all, flaunting their drunkenness and wearing clothes they just shouldn't, for so many reasons!
Sunday evening I did a sunset cruise along the Sarawak River - a bit polluted but still very picturesque. Walking along the river bank is delightful, especially at dusk (what dusk?) and in the evenings.
Charles Brooke is to Kuching what Stamford Raffles is to Singapore, evidently.
Monday - went on a tour to Anah Rais, a Bidayuh (as opposed to Iban) Long House village. Little cats running everywhere, the whole thing on stilts and made of bamboo and rattan, crossing a creek. One of the residents had lost his job at Malaysian Airlines and set up a guest house, he treated us to some of his home-made rice wine (a bit sweet for my liking) and played a game of darts involving pointed satay sticks launched by blowing through a hollow spear (it definitely helps the aim!)
I was amazed at the number of little churches on the way up, through the countryside - Catholic, Anglican, Seventh Day Adventist - but no Mosques. 60% of Sarawak people are Christians, including many of the Malays here. We went along by an impressive mountain range that forms the border with Indonesia (Kalimantan).
Monday evening I went out in search of some food - though I should try more of the traditional Malay things but found a very local looking Chinese food court and got distracted by its offerings (dry fried kuay teow, bean paste buns).
I find that Chinese people outside China are always much more interesting than those in China (why did the leave? What happened to them on the way? Who did they meet/marry? etc- everyone has a story!) Whereas in China, that tendency towards nationalistic pride is not only untempered (by interaction with others) but actively encouraged by the Chinese govt.
Tuesday - KK (Kota Kinabalu) is very commercial and touristy by comparison - first impressions were not so good. It's full of Euro tourists wanting to do the Real Local thing and do tours - swarming with other non-locals - while the Real Locals hang out in shopping malls and queue up at KFC.
Had fun on the bus on the way in from the airport - decided to go for the local bas-mini experience, and started chatting to a local chap, Ahwan (sp?) who showed me where to get off and then escorted me to see his friend Peggy, a rotund Chinese tour agent with a plummy British accent, who told me that since KK has become part of the tourist trail, things are heavily booked. Hmph. August. Damned Eurpoeans all taking their holidays at the same time! I think she lost interest somewhat when she realised I wasn't much into expensive tours.
I know that tourism works when foreigners cough up to do tours ,but I'm always much more interested in the people than the scenery.
There is a proboscis monkey here with a hooter (in the male) amazingly resembling a penis. Used to attract a mate, I guess, like so many other ostentatious displays common to males of all species.
It saddens me so much to think that the animosity towards Muslims so rife in the world today is bred of ignorance and lack of respect. Is it any wonder that they feel insulted, backed into a corner, stripped of their dignity in so many forums? Any religion has extremists. All the Muslims I've met and chatted to so far have been great people, although surely they must treat all Westerners with some element of distrust, at least initially. I certainly haven't detected any. It really doesn't take that much effort for us to be respectful to their ways and customs. Unfortunately so many of the Western tourists here make no effort at all, flaunting their drunkenness and wearing clothes they just shouldn't, for so many reasons!