Udaipur is so far my favorite Indian city. The other cities may have more impressive individual sights, like the Taj in Agra or Amber Fort in Jaipur, but this whole city is somehow less noisy, chaotic, or overwhelming than the rest. It is also truly walkable, which for me is a very important quality. Its setting, on a beautiful lake fringed by distant hills, makes it even more magical. Udaipur has a compact old town of little streets, with hidden courtyards, gateways, and passages, which lead to balconies, steps, or offer sudden secret vistas. A few of the small streets I took ended as little lakeside piazzas, framed by picturesque houses and terraces that come up right to the water.
Our hotel has also not hurt our enjoyment of the city. The hotel has a great ambiance, and a fabulous view of the city palace, a huge medieval complex of towers and walls, sloping down to the lake, from its rooftop. We spent as much time just relaxing on the roof as we did exploring the city, which was just as well. Whether riding in a boat on the serene waters of the lake, or simply sitting on one of the lakeside promenade, Udaipur feels worlds away from the craziness of Jhansi or Jaipur. It feels the least Indian, and the most European, and perhaps that is why here one finds the most Western tourists and western-style cafes (I counted at least 10 hookah bars).
We are now in Goa, which is everything that I wanted it to be. I am typing these words on the beach, listening to the waves. Only a couple days left.