One day,
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fizzgig and I were shopping at a knickknack store
and found chromed resin casts of old cameræ.
We remarked how they would fit our décor, but thought it was silly to
buy a fake camera when there are plenty of affordable real ones out there.
Accordingly, I picked up an old folding Polaroid 100 on eBay on the cheap.
Reading up on it, I discovered that Polaroid originally made roll film
cameræ for a few years, then went to the wildly successful "pack film"
format. These were made for a long time, and in huge numbers. My
Model 100 was the first, and probably well over a million of them were produced.
The Model 100 was also quite capable with quality glass lenses, a range of
film speeds, and an automatic electronic shutter capable of producing
correct exposures at speeds from 1/1200 to 10 seconds.
You can probably guess what happened next.
I didn't want to just have it be a shelf queen from the outset.
It's a nice working camera, why not run some film through it?
I worked with pack film when I worked at the University,
taking high speed oscilloscope photographs with Type 667
3000 speed instant B&W film.
The old pack film is gratifying to work with and the huge negatives
can give excellent sharpness (unlike the later SX-70 style film
with the migrating dyes, which produces distinctively soft images).
A little research revealed that Polaroid no longer offers pack film,
but Fuji makes both color and high speed B&W films in this format.
It's also possible to buy old expired genuine Polaroid packs on eBay
fairly inexpensively.
The camera uses an uncommon 4.5 volt snap terminal battery, so I
rounded up a compact 3 AAA cell holder from a defunct LED flashlight
and attached snap terminals to it. The camera also needed a little
cleaning and adjustment and took a little fiddling before the electronic
shutter would work reliably. I had chosen an inexpensive one, which
was obviously an old early model that had been used extensively.
However, they're quality construction, built to last, and fairly easy
to work on.
The first pack of old film was long expired, so the development
chemicals didn't quite cover the whole frame, and there was some
color shift and loss of contrast. This brand new photograph looks
like it was taken half a century ago. I quite like the effect.
The ergonomics of these early pack film designs is a little odd,
I had to get back into the habit of holding the camera a certain way,
and being careful not to block the film exit door when pulling the tab.
However, I really enjoy the whole whole process. First you focus the
image by holding the camera in both hands and sliding the top assembly
(marked with a "1") from side to side with your index fingers to focus.
While the mechanism is a little odd, it's a nice Zeiss parallax corrected
coupled rangefinder. Then you take the picture by pressing the shutter
release (marked "2"). The shutter will open for the correct amount of
time for the film in use and lighting. You can now cock the shutter
for the next picture (the cocking lever is marked with a "3").
Now to develop the film. There will be a white tab sticking out of
the side of the camera through a slot marked "4". While holding
the camera in your left hand, smoothly pull the white tab straight
out with your right hand, taking care not to block the opening of
the hinged gate next to the film slot. This pulls the negative
from up front (where it is exposed) to the back (next to the
development rollers). Now for the actual development. Pulling
the white tab has brought out a black/yellow tab made of heavier
material. Pull this tab the same way as the white one, but it will
require more force. What it's doing is pulling the negative, print
paper, and developer pod through a set of rollers. The rollers
break open the developer pod and (ideally) spread the developer
evenly between the negative and print. You then wait a specific
amount of time (classically, 60 seconds, but a short as 15 seconds
with some of the newer films) and peel apart the print and negative.
Bam! Instant photography! An incredible number of photographs were taken
this way over the years. It's a hands on, organic process that's strangely
satisfying. The early films (including the high speed oscilloscope film
I used to use had to be coated after development to avoid the silver
oxidizing. They came with a tube containing an applicator soaked with
sticky goo. Fortunately, the modern films don't need this messy step
(although they're messy enough, with the separated negative covered
in caustic developer).
The old camera now sits in a place of honor with our other bits of
photographic memorabilia.
Originally posted at
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