The board is up just above the surf line, it's nose burried in sand, the back end floating lightly on the edges of the receding waves. It's an old fashoned thing with a deep, solid wood finish. It's in good condition, and doesn't look like the sort of thing someone would abandon.
The sun is beginning to set, and a majority of the people have already gone home for the evening. The wind is light, the fading sun is wreathed in a smattering of orange clouds. The waves are deep, slow rollers. Strong and far between.
It's no surprise when I tumble. I'm not an experienced surfer, and it's not my board. The wave tumbles me under and tugs me back, and after a moment I kick free to the surface. The impression I have is the union of the waves and the board playfully tossing me aside, not rejecting me outright. The ideal, but challenging surf conditions encourage me to stick around.
When I straddle the board again, I spot my lone spectator on the beach. A young woman wading, probably waiting for me to return her board I imagine. I feel the surge of water drawing me back, and I decide one more go is in order, and a long ride will let me return the board to it's propper owner with a friendly 'thanks for the ride'. I hope she's not too angry that I yanked it for a bit.
The sun is beginning to set, and a majority of the people have already gone home for the evening. The wind is light, the fading sun is wreathed in a smattering of orange clouds. The waves are deep, slow rollers. Strong and far between.
It's no surprise when I tumble. I'm not an experienced surfer, and it's not my board. The wave tumbles me under and tugs me back, and after a moment I kick free to the surface. The impression I have is the union of the waves and the board playfully tossing me aside, not rejecting me outright. The ideal, but challenging surf conditions encourage me to stick around.
When I straddle the board again, I spot my lone spectator on the beach. A young woman wading, probably waiting for me to return her board I imagine. I feel the surge of water drawing me back, and I decide one more go is in order, and a long ride will let me return the board to it's propper owner with a friendly 'thanks for the ride'.
I hope she's not too angry that I yanked it for a bit.
Reply
Leave a comment