The memory still lingers on .........
I realised that I never finished posting things about our Calabrian trip thanks to weeks of LJ instability, and memories of the lovely trip came flooding back last night, thinking of our impending trip to Puglia. I had a call yesterday afternoon from my mother and she was feeling unwell, and was somewhat over-worrying about it and visualising herself being hospitalised, so apart from me worrying about her too I was contemplating the possibility of being prevented from going away, and how much Franco would be set to loose in hard-cash-terms. Thankfully things seem to be more settled today, and I'm going up to Leeds for one of my regular weekends “up north” in any case, so will see what's going on !
One of the places we had booked to stay for one night during the second half of our trip was a Bed & Breakfast in the small town of Cotronei. We'd both spotted a rather nice historical looking establishment when we were planning the trip, so had decided on it, the price was a tad higher than the rest of the places we booked, but I do like my little bit of “luxury”!
After a day of touring, we arrived at the outskirts in the late afternoon and followed the sat-nav instructions through the centre, we were on the correct road but had no idea where “Palazzo Verga” would be, or what it would look like. The road was very narrow in places, mainly on the bends, and full off Calabrians driving maniacally leaving no chance for us to slow down or pull in ! We carried on until we reached the edge of town and parked up for a breather, at which point Franco decided to set off on foot to find the place. It turned out we weren't far away, he'd asked a local, so we got our luggage and walked. (we later navigated the one-way system and parked in the grounds)
On arrival, the building looked somewhat austere and there wasn't much in the way of signage, so it seemed rather daunting, particularly as the light was fading, dogs were barking in the distance and the smell of burning logs hung in the air...... not to mention hardly a soul about.
However, when the large entrance door opened it all changed ! We were greeted like friends by the owner and her mother, and 3 or 4 small dogs. Our luggage was whisked away, as was my jacket, which was found later hanging on an antique wooden coat-hanger. It was insisted that we sit in the (huge) kitchen and have some refreshment before we did anything else and recovered from our journey. Apparently we were the only guests to find the place without having to ring and find out how to find them.... so they were starting to worry we were very lost ! Apparently, having waited so long for red-tape permission to put up signs, our host had done it herself, only to be fined and had to take them down ! … and was now still waiting for the go-ahead.
The kitchen has a host of original fittings, beautifully restored and modern services are discreetly and cleverly built in behind the scenes.
After a few pleasantries, Tatiana (the owner) showed us around the rooms we were welcome to use during our stay..... the kitchen (naturally!), the sitting room, the library and her study, all beautifully decorated and furnished with great personality and in keeping with the style and age of the house. I asked if we could take photographs and were told “of course”, though the more we realised how personal everything is the less it seemed appropriate to take too many, particularly using flash.....
Tatiana insisted on carrying our very heavy suitcase up three floors to our room. It was a suite, the sitting room of which you could fit our whole home in ! Plus a bedroom and bathroom with all mod-cons. One lovely detail (for me) was that electrics hadn't been “chased” into the walls, but antique finish twisted silk flex was used on the surface for all lighting and switches, thus not causing any damage to the fabric of the old house.
After settling and unpacking our bits for the night, Tatiana gave us a tour of the Piano Noble which includes her and her mother's rooms and the principal rooms of the house. All painstaking restored over nearly ten years, and containing much of the original furnishings and treasures that have been in the family house for generations - we couldn't bring ourselves to spoil the atmosphere with our cameras as we were told the history of the family. Even her great-grandmother's wedding dress was in a wardrobe in perfect condition.
It was then tea served in the library, while Franco chatted to the mother in Italian.... and it all felt rather “Downton Abbey” !
It was suggested that we try a “nearby” restaurant for dinner, a short drive away..... our suggestion of somewhere walk-able fell on deaf ears, and a call was made to book a table for us at “the only place mother would eat out at” ! An informal map (!) was drawn and it all seemed pretty straight-forward to find the “in the middle of nowhere” taverna 10 minutes away. We were to ring Tatiana if we got lost, she was meeting friends but would come and find us ! So we drove for 10 minutes, with very little sign of life, icy hair-pin bends and darkness apart from moonlight every so often. We drove for another 10 minutes of the same, definitely in the middle of nowhere, still nothing, then a bit further on, just as we were seriously contemplating turning around, if only we could find anywhere wide enough, we spotted said hostelry down a very steep driveway......... (the meal is on an earlier post).
When we got back we sat in the study for Franco to use his lap-top, Tatiana arrived home and made drinks for us, and chatted some more. We slept in monogrammed silk sheets, and rose to a sumptuous home-made breakfast in the morning.
Before leaving, we were shown the out-buildings including the stables that had also been lovingly restored and made into an inoteca and a restaurant, to be opened this summer. As we said our goodbyes, mother wanted to make us a packed lunch to take with us and we were given instructions by Tatiana that if we got lost anywhere in north Calabrian that we must ring her on her mobile and she would come, or get a friend to come, and find us !
It was just like leaving old friends !! and there was of course so much more to the experience.
One of the places we had booked to stay for one night during the second half of our trip was a Bed & Breakfast in the small town of Cotronei. We'd both spotted a rather nice historical looking establishment when we were planning the trip, so had decided on it, the price was a tad higher than the rest of the places we booked, but I do like my little bit of “luxury”!
After a day of touring, we arrived at the outskirts in the late afternoon and followed the sat-nav instructions through the centre, we were on the correct road but had no idea where “Palazzo Verga” would be, or what it would look like. The road was very narrow in places, mainly on the bends, and full off Calabrians driving maniacally leaving no chance for us to slow down or pull in ! We carried on until we reached the edge of town and parked up for a breather, at which point Franco decided to set off on foot to find the place. It turned out we weren't far away, he'd asked a local, so we got our luggage and walked. (we later navigated the one-way system and parked in the grounds)
On arrival, the building looked somewhat austere and there wasn't much in the way of signage, so it seemed rather daunting, particularly as the light was fading, dogs were barking in the distance and the smell of burning logs hung in the air...... not to mention hardly a soul about.
However, when the large entrance door opened it all changed ! We were greeted like friends by the owner and her mother, and 3 or 4 small dogs. Our luggage was whisked away, as was my jacket, which was found later hanging on an antique wooden coat-hanger. It was insisted that we sit in the (huge) kitchen and have some refreshment before we did anything else and recovered from our journey. Apparently we were the only guests to find the place without having to ring and find out how to find them.... so they were starting to worry we were very lost ! Apparently, having waited so long for red-tape permission to put up signs, our host had done it herself, only to be fined and had to take them down ! … and was now still waiting for the go-ahead.
The kitchen has a host of original fittings, beautifully restored and modern services are discreetly and cleverly built in behind the scenes.
After a few pleasantries, Tatiana (the owner) showed us around the rooms we were welcome to use during our stay..... the kitchen (naturally!), the sitting room, the library and her study, all beautifully decorated and furnished with great personality and in keeping with the style and age of the house. I asked if we could take photographs and were told “of course”, though the more we realised how personal everything is the less it seemed appropriate to take too many, particularly using flash.....
Tatiana insisted on carrying our very heavy suitcase up three floors to our room. It was a suite, the sitting room of which you could fit our whole home in ! Plus a bedroom and bathroom with all mod-cons. One lovely detail (for me) was that electrics hadn't been “chased” into the walls, but antique finish twisted silk flex was used on the surface for all lighting and switches, thus not causing any damage to the fabric of the old house.
After settling and unpacking our bits for the night, Tatiana gave us a tour of the Piano Noble which includes her and her mother's rooms and the principal rooms of the house. All painstaking restored over nearly ten years, and containing much of the original furnishings and treasures that have been in the family house for generations - we couldn't bring ourselves to spoil the atmosphere with our cameras as we were told the history of the family. Even her great-grandmother's wedding dress was in a wardrobe in perfect condition.
It was then tea served in the library, while Franco chatted to the mother in Italian.... and it all felt rather “Downton Abbey” !
It was suggested that we try a “nearby” restaurant for dinner, a short drive away..... our suggestion of somewhere walk-able fell on deaf ears, and a call was made to book a table for us at “the only place mother would eat out at” ! An informal map (!) was drawn and it all seemed pretty straight-forward to find the “in the middle of nowhere” taverna 10 minutes away. We were to ring Tatiana if we got lost, she was meeting friends but would come and find us ! So we drove for 10 minutes, with very little sign of life, icy hair-pin bends and darkness apart from moonlight every so often. We drove for another 10 minutes of the same, definitely in the middle of nowhere, still nothing, then a bit further on, just as we were seriously contemplating turning around, if only we could find anywhere wide enough, we spotted said hostelry down a very steep driveway......... (the meal is on an earlier post).
When we got back we sat in the study for Franco to use his lap-top, Tatiana arrived home and made drinks for us, and chatted some more. We slept in monogrammed silk sheets, and rose to a sumptuous home-made breakfast in the morning.
Before leaving, we were shown the out-buildings including the stables that had also been lovingly restored and made into an inoteca and a restaurant, to be opened this summer. As we said our goodbyes, mother wanted to make us a packed lunch to take with us and we were given instructions by Tatiana that if we got lost anywhere in north Calabrian that we must ring her on her mobile and she would come, or get a friend to come, and find us !
It was just like leaving old friends !! and there was of course so much more to the experience.