surf's up dude
After living in Hawaii for more than 2.5 years, I can now officially cross surfing off my list of things to do before I die. Well, I may not actually have surfed at all, but I attempted, so I think it can get crossed off the to do list.
Robin's friend/co-worker Carrie lives right on the water and has a bunch of surf boards and Robin has been going out with her most weekends. So yesterday I was home when Robin was getting ready to go and decided to join them. Carrie gave me a giant surfing for dummies surf board. They sent me out in the water first, and I paddled out and hung out in the water for like 10-15 minutes without any problems. Then they came out to where I was, and Carrie's friend Leigh Ann told me when to start paddling when there was a wave coming. so I managed to ride one wave lying down on the surf board.
then the people who knew what they were doing left me to go out farther where there were bigger waves or whatever. and that's when stopped going well. big wave came along and knocked me off the board and threw me under water. I cut my foot on the coral. It's a little tiny cut so no biggie, but coral cuts hurt and don't heal well since the reef is made up of living things. I took the leash off of my ankle when the next big wave was coming because the board was dragging me. so then I spent the next 15 or so minutes lying the wrong way on the board trying to figure out how to get the leash back on. finally got it back on and decided i should give up just yet.
hung out in the water a bit longer avoiding being knocked off again. then robin and carrie came back to where i was. i told them i cut my foot and carrie was gonna go in and get booty things for me. as robin and i were chillin in the water waiting for her to get back another big wave came and knocked me over. swallowed a bit too much salt water. then i was attempting to recover but waves just kept coming and pushing me back towards shore but where there was a wall that the waves crashed into. i manged not to get knocked into the wall, but decided my three near death experiences were enough for the day.
and that was my first attempt at surfing.
Robin's friend/co-worker Carrie lives right on the water and has a bunch of surf boards and Robin has been going out with her most weekends. So yesterday I was home when Robin was getting ready to go and decided to join them. Carrie gave me a giant surfing for dummies surf board. They sent me out in the water first, and I paddled out and hung out in the water for like 10-15 minutes without any problems. Then they came out to where I was, and Carrie's friend Leigh Ann told me when to start paddling when there was a wave coming. so I managed to ride one wave lying down on the surf board.
then the people who knew what they were doing left me to go out farther where there were bigger waves or whatever. and that's when stopped going well. big wave came along and knocked me off the board and threw me under water. I cut my foot on the coral. It's a little tiny cut so no biggie, but coral cuts hurt and don't heal well since the reef is made up of living things. I took the leash off of my ankle when the next big wave was coming because the board was dragging me. so then I spent the next 15 or so minutes lying the wrong way on the board trying to figure out how to get the leash back on. finally got it back on and decided i should give up just yet.
hung out in the water a bit longer avoiding being knocked off again. then robin and carrie came back to where i was. i told them i cut my foot and carrie was gonna go in and get booty things for me. as robin and i were chillin in the water waiting for her to get back another big wave came and knocked me over. swallowed a bit too much salt water. then i was attempting to recover but waves just kept coming and pushing me back towards shore but where there was a wall that the waves crashed into. i manged not to get knocked into the wall, but decided my three near death experiences were enough for the day.
and that was my first attempt at surfing.