(no subject)
Took a train from Varkala down south. Speeding towards the equator with occasional breaks to let passengers off. The stop before the southern most tip of India and the car I was in was empty - except for a Frenchman names Charles. We sat opposite each other as the sun set, staring out the glassless window over golden mountains and green palms. We each lit up a cigarette and as the train sped away from the station Charles whispered almost inaudibly - 'this is India.'
And so I said goodbye to Kerala.
So for new years I was in Kanyakumari (southern most tip of India). And GOD the rent was expensive. Apparently every Indian with enough money travel had the same idea I did. Every Indian and three other white people. The last night of 2006 fell quickly. The sun disappeared behind the clouds in an unremarkable way well before dark. But it didn't matter because New Years eve isn't about what preceded it.
When darkness did fall and I was wandering around the street I saw this great native dance/drum performance in the streets. Two beautiful Indian women danced in traditional Tamil garb to four mad drummers and two horn players. The rythems became faster and faster and the horns louder and louder soon the energy of the crowd was almost tangible.
But I'm a filthy hedonistic westerner and what do westerners do on new years? Thats right; find the only bar in a sacred pilgrims city. This bar was great. Only red lights were used (for the ambiance I'm sure) and the place was packed! I met this fantastic Indian man of about 40 years, very very wealthy. We got to talking about everything. He bought me 2 beers and gave me his number. Told me to look him up in Chennai when I get there. He managed to get me sitting down with the only other white people in the bar
And then bought a round for us!
SO I end up drinking with an American guy and Israeli girl and a chick from New Zealand. In this bar there's a live band playing traditional Indian music and the locals are going wild; dancing, whistling, and generally having a good time. Kids were dressed up like santa wearing ghoulish kwailo masks and they danced bizzar, contorted dances in smoke filled air - did I mention the bar only had red lights? Yeah. It did feel a little Satantic.
The party ends at 11 because thats when Indian bars close and we take a bottle of brandy I bought and head to the girls hotel room. We drink, play music, swap stories; felt like home. The American guy had to leave at around 4:30. So we walked him home, go to the beach and watch the sunrise. A steel blue-purple affair without much drama.
Not wanting to pay rent another day, I check out; exhausted and head up to Madurai - this little holy city in Tamil Nadu. Saw some amazing temples. I'll post some pictures when I get to a computer with a USB port - but the highlight of Madurai was definitely the second night I spent there...
Street art Madurai:
I met these 5 Indian guys (17-23) and we got to talking, had some chai and eventually went out for a beer. We talked about everything from politics to religion to family. And, of course, being guys, we talked about women. Now there is a punchline here - all of these guys are Muslim.
Have I mentioned that I love this country yet? Because I love this country.
Note:
Kiwi guy featured in the background of the beach pictures of me in the previous post - he's heading to Canada in a month or so. Toronto, Montreal being among the first places he's planning on visiting. I've passed along the e-mail addresses of Tisha, Joel Brown and Adrienne.
Don't worry, he's a cool guy. He'll be good times. Promise.
Note to Tisha:
For gods sake! Buy a winter coat!
And so I said goodbye to Kerala.
So for new years I was in Kanyakumari (southern most tip of India). And GOD the rent was expensive. Apparently every Indian with enough money travel had the same idea I did. Every Indian and three other white people. The last night of 2006 fell quickly. The sun disappeared behind the clouds in an unremarkable way well before dark. But it didn't matter because New Years eve isn't about what preceded it.
When darkness did fall and I was wandering around the street I saw this great native dance/drum performance in the streets. Two beautiful Indian women danced in traditional Tamil garb to four mad drummers and two horn players. The rythems became faster and faster and the horns louder and louder soon the energy of the crowd was almost tangible.
But I'm a filthy hedonistic westerner and what do westerners do on new years? Thats right; find the only bar in a sacred pilgrims city. This bar was great. Only red lights were used (for the ambiance I'm sure) and the place was packed! I met this fantastic Indian man of about 40 years, very very wealthy. We got to talking about everything. He bought me 2 beers and gave me his number. Told me to look him up in Chennai when I get there. He managed to get me sitting down with the only other white people in the bar
And then bought a round for us!
SO I end up drinking with an American guy and Israeli girl and a chick from New Zealand. In this bar there's a live band playing traditional Indian music and the locals are going wild; dancing, whistling, and generally having a good time. Kids were dressed up like santa wearing ghoulish kwailo masks and they danced bizzar, contorted dances in smoke filled air - did I mention the bar only had red lights? Yeah. It did feel a little Satantic.
The party ends at 11 because thats when Indian bars close and we take a bottle of brandy I bought and head to the girls hotel room. We drink, play music, swap stories; felt like home. The American guy had to leave at around 4:30. So we walked him home, go to the beach and watch the sunrise. A steel blue-purple affair without much drama.
Not wanting to pay rent another day, I check out; exhausted and head up to Madurai - this little holy city in Tamil Nadu. Saw some amazing temples. I'll post some pictures when I get to a computer with a USB port - but the highlight of Madurai was definitely the second night I spent there...
Street art Madurai:
I met these 5 Indian guys (17-23) and we got to talking, had some chai and eventually went out for a beer. We talked about everything from politics to religion to family. And, of course, being guys, we talked about women. Now there is a punchline here - all of these guys are Muslim.
Have I mentioned that I love this country yet? Because I love this country.
Note:
Kiwi guy featured in the background of the beach pictures of me in the previous post - he's heading to Canada in a month or so. Toronto, Montreal being among the first places he's planning on visiting. I've passed along the e-mail addresses of Tisha, Joel Brown and Adrienne.
Don't worry, he's a cool guy. He'll be good times. Promise.
Note to Tisha:
For gods sake! Buy a winter coat!