Therme Vals
Therme Vals. All architects, architecture students and architecture enthusiasts know how amazing this place is, even if one hasn't been to the place, pictures, descriptions and narratives tell of the sensual spatial qualities of the baths. Although many people have written about it, raved about how gorgeous it is etc etc, I shall attempt to convey my own experiences.
I took a train and a bus down to Vals from Chur, and the journey itself was unforgettable. It started snowing in the morning, so the roads, mountains and trees were blanketed with soft pillowy snow. It's the kind of fresh snow which forms perfectly smooth snowballs that don't melt in your hands. The train ride was picturesque, almost unreal. As I happily snapped away with my camera, my dad said that he wanted to continue sitting on the train, even though we had reached Ilanz. Once we reached Ilanz, we took a bus up to Vals. We shared the bus with a bunch of school children, who chatted away in German as the beautiful Swiss landscape unfolded round every road turn. It was still snowing, and the white specks flew past the windscreen of the bus. Dropping at a non-discreet bus stop, we were momentarily lost. We walked up one of the older wings of Hotel Therme Vals, not sure if it was actually the hotel.
We were walking across the corridor/bridge to the reception when I caught sight of the unique roof of the Therme Vals, hidden partially by some bare trees. I was so surprised I literally jumped up and down saying: 'omg it's here! this is it! this is the therme vals! AAAHHH'
We walked into the reception area, which had this delightful 60s vibe and the most gorgeous blue carpeting. I loooove 60s interiors and architecture, so I immediately felt as ease. It seems strange to describe it as such, but it was somehow Zumthor-like - in the materials and the feeling of the place.
Fast forward to the main desk where you get your tokens for entrance to the Therme Vals (this is if you're not a guest at the hotel). I got my token, got my towel, got my swimsuit in my bag, and I walked down a dark corridor to a set of brass turnstiles. Rather old-fashioned, I thought to myself. After the turnstiles turning left, is a long corridor with spouts of water running down the wall, with mineral deposits colouring the walls shades of orange.
The changing room is a dark brooding affair, with deep red varnished wood, and dim orange lighting. After getting changed (and getting stuck with figuring out the key of the locker) I went back out of the corridor, and turned left - and I was in the heart of the Therme Vals.
The brass railings, doorknobs, towel rungs, and the thoughtful little column with a clock on top - went very well with the grey stone walls. Everything was in perfect harmony. Without wanting to go into an in-depth analysis of particular aspects like light and space and shadow - all the things that every article seems to talk about, I'd like to mention how beautifully everything went together, with attention to detail, small gestures that reflected the thoughtfulness of the architect.
The views are beautifully framed, especially when in the outdoor bath. The snow-blanketed mountains in the distance, and the steam rising out of the water created a view that is insanely beautiful. While enjoying this, the hot spring waters kept you feeling nice and relaxed.
The individual rooms are amazing. Each room is crafted to give you a totally different experience. My favourite is the fragrant room with flower petals in the water. I'm not sure if this was on purpose, but this room had the loudest gurgling water sounds that echoed up into the tall ceiling space of the room. I also tried humming some Eric Whitacre while in there, and the acoustics is amazing. If i were with willing choir enthusiasts, I bet singing Water Night in there will be hair raising!!
The room with really hot water was quite an experience - I had to go in rather slowly, but it was worth it. After being in there for awhile, it does something to your body which i can't describe. The only room I didn't linger in was the cold water room - which I did honestly try to get in, but when the cold water hit my chest I was like GAAAAASP LS;DKJFL;DFKGJ and my brain was screaming - GET OUT GET OUT OF THIS. But then after when I got out, my legs felt so fresh like never before, so if you can bear it, the cold water room is probably really good as well.
There is a room which you have to swim under a low arch in the wall to get to, and it's rather secluded. instead of smooth grey stone slabs, the stone slabs in this room were bumpy. I think the experience was enhanced by the two German men who were humming in a really low note, which made the entire room reverb quite brilliantly. I closed my eyes and it was...quite simply a trippy experience.
the last room is quite confusing. It has water falling from the top of the ceiling, and brass railings surrounding the gush of water, with brass cups hanging on the railing. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to smell it, drink it, or splash it on myself, so I smelt it, decided against possibly poisoning myself, and splashed the water on myself. And felt rather silly doing that, so I turned to look at the walls. The huge stone slab in this room are lifted from each other with smaller pieces of stone, creating large gaps in-between each stone slab. The effect is rather sinister - like being in a dark cave.
The central indoor bath is comparatively uninteresting, but it does bring all the spaces together and you can always enjoy a leisurely swim across to the other side of the therme vals rather than walking around the central bath.
After your fingers start pruning/wrinkling up, the lounge seats by the window are heavenly. I've always found the phrase 'connected with nature' quite cheesy and certainly most overused in commercial residential projects that aren't really connected in anyway with any sort of nature at all. But honestly, lying there infront of the window with nothing but the entire landscape rising infront of you - while you're still toasty inside, now that's what I call connecting with nature.
There are soooo many little bits of the Therme Vals that add up to the whole experience - the red stony floor in the hot water room, the black walls of the showers, the swim out under the glass to the outdoor bath, the lights, the little niche that offers you a peek into the central space from the locker areas - seriously, I can go on and on.
But I shouldn't. Because hopefully the photos will be able to speak for themselves. Will be posting them in about a week when I get back home! For now it's another leg of the Switzerland tour.