Cambodia 2018 - Siem Reap
I never got around to write about this trip. It was an important trip for me because of the stories I read in the past that got me interested in history, military history, and genocide. I remember being little and hearing stories from my dad about this thing happening in some far away land where little kids were walking around with weapons and turning on their friends and families because someone told them it must be. In 1984, the film "The Killing Fields" was released. I immediately loved that it became so well-received and a box office success. That meant that people went to see this film and they were interested in learning about the atrocities committed and endured by so many. It seemed to me - it pretty much still does - that the geography of Cambodia is too close to Vietnam and that's an area too many Americans don't really like to bring to into focus - especially when it opens up a history of lies and deception.
On 11 September, Richard and I flew from Thailand into Siem Reap. We stayed at the very posh Anantara Angkor - we often stay at Anatara / Avani resorts when possible. That night we ate at the on-site restaurant Chi. We would eat there again and again for dinner because it was good and we were lazy. I realized how pricey it was when we were taking care of our bill checking out at the end of our stay. Again, it was good but there's also a LOT of good food around town that's way, way less! (We did eat there for breakfast as well, but that was included as part of our stay).
Also, on a future visit to Chi, we met Valentine, the man in charge of media and promotions. He also asked if I was Kumimonster from instagram. :-D Hahaha! After chatting with him a bit he gave us a couple of recommendations: one for food (Jungle Burger), and the other place to visit in town that we would find very, very interesting: APOPO.
September 12. We saw things today. After breakfast, the resort booked us a tuk tuk to take us to APOPO. APOPO stands for Anti-Persoonsmijnen Ontmijnende Product Ontwikkeling. It is a non-profit that trains giant Gambian pouched rats to detect landminds/explosives as well as tuberculosis. These rats are sent to work in countries infested with landmines and although there are some limitations, there are also certain advantages. They are helping. There's a tour and a film and a little demonstration of one of the rats at work. I am thrilled that we got to see this and it'll take an hour of your time to visit (in case anyone is reading this and wondering if you should go - you should).
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After visiting the #herorats, we headed over to the Angkor National Museum. It was a nice visit and the audio tour is great. A lot of information to absorb but it might be a nice place to start with a base before heading into the Angkor Park and getting bombarded with a lot of history and myths. No cameras allowed inside - that is, don't take photos.
After the museum, we decided to check out Jungle Burger, Valentine's food suggestion! It was exactly what we needed. A nice, big burger that was cooked great. It gave us a nice break from the local fare we'd been diving into for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past couple of weeks. (Prior to Cambodia, we were in Thailand for a bit of time).
The 13th was our big day at the Angkor Archeological Park. Now, the AAP, is not Angkor Wat. It represents an enormous area containing multiple temples, ruins, and other sites. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and a truly a wonder of the ancient world. I have written a lot on TripAdvisor about the various locations. Those are all linked here with advice on each site as well as pre-visit suggestions.
We started out very early in the morning in order to get our tickets. Then we headed to a spot near Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise from across the moat. There was a big of cloud cover so it wasn't as glorious as some photos I've seen, but it was still worth it. There were others watching as well, but it wasn't that bad of a crowd as we crossed the floating pontoon bridge and into the ancient city complex.
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After getting to the center and climbing up the stairs to the temple at Angkor Wat, we decided to head out to the next stop after a quick bite to eat. At this point, the crowds were just barely starting to arrive. The 0500 start time was really a good idea!
We drove over to Angkor Thom and parked near the South Gate. Angkor Thom is a city within the Angkor Archeological Park. It is big. Again, some pre-planning will be helpful if you really want to see specific things and don't care too much about the others - sometimes, a drive-by is all you need while other stops require boots on the ground!
We took a cute Kongkear Angkor boat ride down the moat and it was enjoyable. The boat glides over to the SW corner where you can climb off and go up some stairs to Prasat Chrung - one of the 4 Bayon style temples at Angkor Thom. The other easier way to reach this spot is by taking a bike tour that will ride through the complex. I don't like to peddle though.
So then, back to the South Gate! The bridge must be walked so you can really look at the Gods and Demons as they pull on the snake Shesha while churning the ocean of milk. At the bridge, you will find Indra on top of the three-headed elephant.
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Bayon Temple. Must see. Just go. It's the big temple of Angkor Thom.
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Ta Prohm. Tomb Raider temple. So gorgeous. Nature is slowly winning and taking everything back.
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We were pretty templed out at this point. We did check out the Terrace of the Elephants, Suor Prat Tower, and Ta Keo from a short distance away.
September 14. Stayed around the resort for most of the day. When evening hit, we went out! OK, maybe not to party but to check out some night time touristy spots.
Namely, the Night Market, Pub Street, and Miss Wong - a retro styled bar I wanted to see.
Food was had at Monsoon and it was good!
Again, lots of typing already done at the links above. I don't really enjoy the idea of shopping but I was able to find some things I liked enough to purchase at the Night Market. And Pub Street is full of life that it seems like something to check out at least once. I don't like crowds but I do like good food and this area has a great choice of cheap eats.
Siem Reap has a war museum and a killing field. Actually, the entire country has killing fields scattered all around it. As amazing as it was to witness the remains of Angkor and the Khmer empire, the more modern history of this place is what first drew my interest.
War Museum Cambodia. Get a guide. Your entry fee includes one. In the little book/souvenir shop is a book titled "Sinarth" and if he's available, you can ask him to sign your book or even guide your group. Spent an hour here. I should've stayed another hour and really tried to absorb as much as I could of the place. I love war museums.
Wat Thmey (Killing Fields). An estimated 8000 people were killed here at this spot. They were thrown into pits south of here. Worth a fast visit.
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More Siem Reap to follow.